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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey all i am picking up a real nice light purple 96 intrepid with the 3.3 and auto overdrive trans in it, the trans is bad in it and i found a low price on a good used tranny for it and im debating on whether to go ahead and replace it or just trade/part the car and save myself the trouble

its a great runner and clean body and everything and 144k miles and everything works except there is no sterio in it

what should i do ?

what does it take to replace the trannies in these cars specifically ? i have replaces trannie sin lots of vehicles of all kinds and later models too but i dont know how these cars are setup, they are FWD but the engine and trans is the other way ?

anyone have diagrams ?
does the exhaust have to come out ?

pull the spindles at the balljoints to get the shafts out like any other FWD ?

what would the car be worth in great shape mechanically and physically, but with 144k on it and trans #2 ?

ill take pics soon like early next week or so, its a real nice car


thanks for anything
 

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If you have replaced trannys before, it shouldn't be too hard. I'm not sure how to attach a link, but if you do a search there is a pretty good how-to. I did it last year on a 95 LHS and she's still running great. I swapped in one from a 2000 Concorde that had a 2.7L, so the gearing is different (better low end, worse highway mpg, but it's small price to pay for better stop light take-offs!)
As far as ease, it's almost like taking out a rear-drive tranny except for the half-shafts. It drops right out from the bottom with only minor hassles (exhaust needs to be cut & rewelded/replaced). If you have a tranny from a pre-98, it should swap right in. After 98 (2nd-gen) there is some small modifications, but they're listed in that how-to. Only problem I had was getting the torque converter FULLY seated, once it was on all the way, it bolted back together perfectly.
Good luck, and sucker someone...I mean ask someone to give you a hand, it speeds up the process greatly.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
neat, sounds good then thanks Andrew

so the exhaust is the only real deal

thats good then

is there a crossmember or anything under it to remove, or anything else ?


and do yuo have to separate the lower balljoints on these to get the spindles to swing away so the shafts can be pulled just like other FWD's ?


i will probably most likely sell or trade the car off,
unless i drove it and became fond of it

hard to say

should be here by monday so i can take pics real quick, and i want to get the tranny for it within the next week, and start pulling the original one immediately

unless maybe i decide to see if i can sell it as is for like 650 real quick- in which is what i'd have in the car after replacing the tranny with another,
can find good trannies for 150 to 250 around here i found a few so far calling around




thanks again!
 

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Here's a little How-To, hope it'll help you some:

Transaxle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1


Fig. 1: The transaxle and engine is supported by the cradle



The 42LE Four Speed Transaxle uses fully-adaptive controls. Adaptive controls are those which perform their functions based on real-time feedback sensor information. The transaxle is conventional in the use of hydraulically applied clutches to shift a planetary gear train. However, it uses electronics to control virtually all other functions. The following components are serviceable in the vehicle: valve body assembly, solenoid pack, manual valve lever position sensor, input and output speed sensors, transfer chain and sprockets, short (right side ) stub shaft seal and the long (left side ) stub shaft and ball bearing. Note that the factory recommends that before attempting any repair on the 42LE four-speed automatic transaxle, always check for proper shift linkage adjustment. Also check for diagnostic trouble codes with the Chrysler DRB scan tool (or equivalent).

Use MOPAR Type 7176 Automatic Transmission Fluid only. Do not substitute transaxle fluid. If the differential sump requires fluid, use 80W-90 petroleum based Hypoid gear lubricant. The transaxle can be removed without removing the engine. Use the following procedure.

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Remove the engine air inlet tube.

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the upper right side of the transaxle bell housing. Unplug the crankshaft position sensor connector and remove sensor.

Unplug the transaxle wiring connector block located on the right shock tower. To free the connector from the harness, remove the wire ties.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove the front wheels.

Remove the strut to steering knuckle bolts on both sides of the vehicle. Disconnect the tie-rod ends if required.

Remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) wheel speed sensor, if equipped.

Remove the halfshafts from the transfer case by inserting a prybar between the halfshaft and the transaxle case and pry the shaft from the transaxle housing. Swing the shafts out of the way keeping the joints straight and suspend using wire. Be careful not to damage the halfshaft seals.

Do not let the halfshafts or CV-joints hang unsupported. Internal joint damage may result if allowed to hang free.

Remove the engine-to-transaxle brackets and the transaxle bell housing cover.

Mark the driveplate to the torque converter and remove the torque converter bolts. The driveplate-to-torque converter bolts are not to be reused.

Unbolt and remove the starter assembly from the bell housing and allow the starter motor to sit between the engine and the frame.

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transaxle and plug to prevent excess fluid leakage.

Remove the transaxle dipstick.

Disconnect the gear selector cable from the transaxle.

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and position out of the way. If the clearance will not allow for transaxle removal, remove the exhaust system from the vehicle.

Support the transaxle using a transmission jack. Raise the transaxle slightly to relieve the weight off the rear transaxle mount.

Remove the engine-to-transaxle brackets and the transaxle mount through-bolt.

Remove the rear crossmember mounting bolts. Pry the transaxle mount rearward to separate the mount from the transaxle. Remove the rear crossmember.

Lower the rear of the transaxle to gain access to the bell housing bolts. Remove the bell housing bolts.

Place a drain pan under the dipstick in the transaxle to catch transaxle fluid that will drain out of the case. Remove the dipstick tube from the transaxle and plug hole.

Remove the engine-to-transaxle bolts and lower the transaxle from the vehicle.

The driveplate-to-torque converter bolts and the driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts must not be reused. Install new bolts when ever these bolts are removed.

Inspect the driveplate for cracks. If cracks are present, replace the driveplate.

To install:

Apply a light coating of grease to the pilot hole of the crankshaft if the torque converter is being replaced.


WARNING

When installing the transaxle unit into the vehicle, be careful that the fuel tubes at the rear of the engine do not contact the following:



Tie rod attachment plate at the power steering rack

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube

Transaxle wiring harness

Install the driveplate to the engine and secure using new fasteners. Tighten the fastener to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).

Install the transaxle into the vehicle and install the engine-to-transaxle case mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).

Install the rear transaxle case mount and the rear crossmember in position and secure all fasteners.

Install the dipstick tube.

Reconnect the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.

Reconnect the gear selector cable to the transaxle. Reconnect the transaxle oil cooler lines.

Install the starter assembly and secure with the mounting bolts tightened to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Be sure that the starter ground strap is installed correctly.

Position the torque converter so matchmarks made during disassembly are in alignment. Install new torque converter to driveplate bolts and tighten to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).

Install the transaxle bell housing cover. Install the engine to transaxle brackets.

While pulling the top of the steering knuckle outward, install the inner CV-joint with new retainer clip in place, into the transaxle.

Install the ABS wheel sensor, if removed. Install the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts and secure.

Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).

Lower the vehicle to the ground. Install the transaxle dipstick.

Engage the transaxle wiring harness connector on the right shock tower.

Install and reconnect the crankshaft position sensor.

Install the air inlet tube and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Start the engine and allow to idle for two minutes. Apply parking brake and move selector through each gear position, ending in N. Recheck fluid level and add if necessary. Make sure the vehicle is level when refilling the transaxle. Use Mopar Type 7176 Automatic Transmission Fluid only. Do not substitute transaxle fluid. If the differential sump requires fluid, use 80W-90 petroleum based Hypoid gear lubricant.

Check the transaxle or proper operation. Adjust the shift linkage, if necessary. Make sure the reverse lamps come on when in reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
good stuff thanks

when it says driveplate i assume they mean flexplate right ?


cant reuse the bolts ?

interesting

buy new ones at local chrysler dealer or what ?


and it says to rmeove the bolts at the steering knuckles where the struts mount to them- instead of separating the ball joints? going to need a strut compressor ? no ?




thanks :D
 
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