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Discussion Starter #4
It is an 01'..repair shop did put it on the scanner, I had a clock spring go out and codes 455 and 700.

He took care of the the clock spring and code 455 the Evap problem...........said he didn't notice anything wrong with the transmission so said don't worry about it.

I'm thinking I should be worrying about it. Am I going to have trouble and not able to drive it once I start having problems. I mean does it shut down all the sudden and can't be driven?

How do they do a deeper code scan, can Advance Auto Parts store do that? Input and output sensors seem cheaper and easier to replace.. Can I do that myself without much trouble or shoud l I take to the shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is the code I have:
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction

But how do you pinpoint it more so I know exactly what to replace?


There are a bunch a different transmission codes but right now I only have the one I listed above.
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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We're saying that most generic code readers can only read the main computer's codes - in this case a P0700 - which is a generic OBD II code.

The transmission computer should have one or more additional codes (P07xx) which should help pinpoint an actual issue. Not all code readers are able to extract those codes.

The P0700 is insufficient to diagnose an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I don't get it scanned again and just go the route of changing out the input and output sensors which sensors do you buy from Rock Auto for a 2001 3.2 engine.....Or is it best to get these straight from the dealer?

AIRTEX / WELLS 1H4 AdvanTech
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. OUTPUT
Part ImageNext Image
$9.09

AIRTEX / WELLS 3N5 AdvanTech
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. INPUT
$9.23

DORMAN 917601 {#4800878} Input Speed Sensor One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. INPUT
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$9.96

DORMAN 917602 {#4800879} Output Speed Sensor One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. OUTPUT
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$10.39

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SC104T T-Series
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Output Shaft
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$12.44

AIRTEX / WELLS 5S5409 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers}
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. INPUT
Part ImageNext Image
$12.54

AIRTEX / WELLS 5S4874 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers}
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. OUTPUT
Part ImageNext Image
$12.65

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SC103T T-Series
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Input Shaft
Part ImageNext Image
$12.81

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SC103 {#4412878, 4800878, SC35}
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Input Shaft
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$13.20

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SC104 {#4412879, 4800879, SC36}
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Output Shaft
 

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without reading codes you don't know what the problem is.
replacing the transmission would probably get rid of the code too. but that's hardly the way to repair things.
if it's solenoids, replacing the sensors will do nothing. and if it's speed sensors, replacing the solenoids will do nothing.
find the codes and repair what is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
without reading codes you don't know what the problem is.
replacing the transmission would probably get rid of the code too. but that's hardly the way to repair things.
if it's solenoids, replacing the sensors will do nothing. and if it's speed sensors, replacing the solenoids will do nothing.
find the codes and repair what is needed.
Okay then, where is the best place/cheapest $$ place to get deeper into to finding what codes I have besides 0700 key dance code?
 

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But how do you pinpoint it more so I know exactly what to replace?
Okay then, where is the best place/cheapest $$ place to get deeper into to finding what codes I have besides 0700 key dance code?
Even a $60 scanner from harbor freight is good enough to show the underlying transmission codes. I'd get a scanner that will tell you the code, figure out what the code is, and go from there.
What I mentioned before would be a good place to start. Or if you are lucky the readers that oreillys, advance auto, or auto zone have may be able to pull up the underlying transmission codes. I listed these stores because I believe any of the 3 will check your codes for free.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Why not just disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes and check for codes after that? If it's an old stored code it'll be erased. Drive the car for awhile then do the key dance to check to see if the P0700 code comes back. Then you can get deeper into it.

When's the last time the transmission was serviced? As in a fluid/filter change?
 

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Agreed with the others on either resetting codes and seeing if it comes back, or get the underlying codes read before spending money.

If a speed sensor was actually bad or even flakey, your car would be going into limp mode (either after you got up to a certain speed after each start up, or intermittently) - the "stuck in second gear" thing that they sing about in the 'Friends' theme song. Also, in addition, if it were the output speed sensor, your speedometer reading would not work (while the sensor signal was bad).

But to answer your question, I think most or all here would agree that, for these particular sensors, aftermarkets generally work fine (unlike with some other sensors for our cars). Would recommend a non-bottom-of-the-barrel brand, because even for a sensor that is hard to screw up, some manufacturers will go out of their way to figure out how to make it so cheap that it won't work, or won't work for very long.

Haven't had to price or buy them in a few years, but my guess would be in the $15 to $20 each range.

But if you're not going into limp mode, your speed sensors are almost with 100% certainty OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Went to AutoZone and brought up the dreaded P0740 code....

Bad News I think :( I have not changed the transmission fluid/filter in a long time, I'm sure it's over due for sure. Like I said before I'm not having any shifting problems at the moment. First thing I'm going to do is unhook the battery and see if the CEL comes back on. I know my mechanic though had unhooked to change out the clock spring, when I left his shop it was off, It came back on the next day so I'm pretty sure the CEL will come back on again.

I guess the first thing to try is have the transmission fluid/filter changed and see what happens from there.
I really don't want to put anymore money in this car for a rebuilt transmission which will be expensive.........Might be time to say bye bye to the Intrepid throw in my cards and look for another car :( This car sure has been good to me though for the past 12 years since I have owned it.

What do you guys think on how I should proceed? Does this mean a total Rebuild?

Went to AutoZone and brought up the dreaded P0740 code......

Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection

What does this mean?
When is the code detected?
Diagnostic trouble code P0740 is detected when TCM detects an improper voltage drop when it tries to operate the solenoid valve.

Possible symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Transmission shift shock
- Vehicle may not shift into the highest gear

P0740 Description
The torque converter clutch solenoid valve is activated, with the gear in D4, by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the vehicle speed and the Engine Control Module (ECM). Lock-up piston operation will then be controlled. When the torque converter clutch solenoid valve is activated, the torque converter lockup clutch will engage creating a 1 to 1 RPM ratio between the transmission input shaft and the rotational speed of the torque converter.

Lock-up operation, however, is prohibited when A/T fluid temperature is too low.

When the accelerator pedal is depressed (less than 2/8) in lock-up condition, the engine speed should not change abruptly. If there is a big jump in engine speed, there is no lock-up.

Read more: http://www.autocodes.com/p0740.html#ixzz3ywbo5jIh
 

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First off, clear the code and see if it comes back. Drive on the highway/interstate and watch the rpm and as you reach your intended speed and see if the torque converter appears to be going into lockup like it should. If not, then the odds are that the problem lies within the solenoid that controls it.

There have been multiple people on here who have replaced solenoid packs themselves at the cost of a couple hundred bucks. If you take it to a shop they would want 800 bucks or so to do it. Used transmissions can be found at junkyards for about 300.

If the code comes back and you notice the symptoms, then it's up to you on what you want to do. But this is not something that $40 worth of speed sensors is going to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
. Drive on the highway/interstate and watch the rpm and as you reach your intended speed and see if the torque converter appears to be going into lockup like it should. If not, then the odds are that the problem lies within the solenoid that controls it.
Explain the above part a little better for me what I'm looking for on the RPM dial? what does going into a lockup like it should mean? lock up sounds bad?
 

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As you are accelerating and approach interstate speeds, the transmission will shift into 4th, when you reach your desired speed and you let off the gas a little the rpm will drop a few hundred rpm after a couple seconds. This is the torque converter going into lockup. What it's doing is coupling the engine directly to the input shaft of the transmission so that it doesn't slip and it increases gas mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
okay, Connected Battery, no CEL.

Went for a ride on a regular highway.....saw the RPM go up and back off 3 times while going up to the speed of 80 mph. Never saw a 4th gear. I assume I having to be going a little higher to hit that 4th gear so it does seems it is still changing gears.

CEL came back on after about 15 minutes of driving, did the key dance again. PO1684(Battery) and PO700 again...............I assume 0740 is still there but when doing the key dance that code doesn't come up.

Now what I do keep driving and see what happens.

Saw this youtube video of changing out the Solonoid pack on another model Dodge, would this be just about the same procedure for an Intrepid if I have to go that route?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S16ntbtwUgA

,
 

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Woober Goobers!
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You'll see the Torque Converter lockup when you get up to highway speeds and back off the throttle for a steady cruising speed. When the Torque Converter locks up you'll see about a 200-300 rpm drop in engine speed.
 
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