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Hello everyone I am new of course so I am going to get right into this. I have a 2002 Intrepid and am having problems I get an occasional small back fire and have codes 152 and 300... I have the third o2 sensor in there and have been working my way around the sensors making sure everything is working well. Any suggestions?
 

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Are you using only OEM Mopar or NTK?NGK sensors or other aftermarket? OEM/Mopar or NTK/NGK Denso seem to be calibrated for our cars, other aftermarket sensors don;t have the calibration these cars require.

2002 should be NTK 23131 (2 each) upper NTK 23133 (2 each) Down
 

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With a backfire along with a P0300 code, I would check mechanical things first; condition of spark plugs, coil packs, vacuum leaks, and compression. It is possible that whatever is causing the misfire code is causing the O2 sensor code. If all that checks out, then chase down the O2 sensor problem....IF there is a mechanical problem, it is likely in bank 2....(drivers side)...along with the O2 sensor code.

If you have a backfire in the exhaust; you have unburnt fuel entering the exhaust, from what I mentioned above most likely. That needs to be addressed first. If its thru the intake, its almost definitely a mechanical issue in all probability.
 

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With a backfire along with a P0300 code, I would check mechanical things first; condition of spark plugs, coil packs, vacuum leaks, and compression. It is possible that whatever is causing the misfire code is causing the O2 sensor code. If all that checks out, then chase down the O2 sensor problem....IF there is a mechanical problem, it is likely in bank 2....(drivers side)...along with the O2 sensor code.

If you have a backfire in the exhaust; you have unburnt fuel entering the exhaust, from what I mentioned above most likely. That needs to be addressed first. If its thru the intake, its almost definitely a mechanical issue in all probability.
I get the feeling that what he's referring to as a backfire may just be a miss that causes a jerk but no actual pop. Matter of fact, the only time I can recall someone mentioning a backfire before led to an engine not running and the discovery of a blown up intake from a timing issue.

If one of the upstream o2 sensors has crapped out with a high voltage code, from my experience either 1. it will be that code and a P0300, nothing specific to any cylinder, and the symptoms is that it randomly missfires mostly between 30 and 50 mph and may hesitate a second or two at about 1800 rpm when you accelerate from a stop then take off real quick. Or 2. you have the high voltage code only and the only symptom being the hesitation when accelerating.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I get the feeling that what he's referring to as a backfire may just be a miss that causes a jerk but no actual pop. Matter of fact, the only time I can recall someone mentioning a backfire before led to an engine not running and the discovery of a blown up intake from a timing issue.

If one of the upstream o2 sensors has crapped out with a high voltage code, from my experience either 1. it will be that code and a P0300, nothing specific to any cylinder, and the symptoms is that it randomly missfires mostly between 30 and 50 mph and may hesitate a second or two at about 1800 rpm when you accelerate from a stop then take off real quick. Or 2. you have the high voltage code only and the only symptom being the hesitation when accelerating.
Wow thanks !! So I better do a better job of explaining what I can. I bought the car after it had had a complete valve job and a water pump and timing component replacement. So with all of that new we have replaced the radiator it had a small crack , all hoses, top water inlet, thermostat. I have also replaced TPS , Idle Air control (It is on it's way here), Map sensor, Cam sensor, the PVC w/hoses, I bought the car from a good mechanic and he volunteered to re set the intake just in case there was a leak. He did a vac test and it held steady (I forget what he said it was at) The car runs very well I just drove it to Missouri and back from south central Pa. I do get a hesitation from it when I go to give it gas but the tps helped with that some. I am hoping the IACV helps more with that since mine seems that the spring is weak. On our trip we got 27 mpg average so I was thinking what ever is wrong couldn't be to big. I do have a Denso O2 sensor ready to be shipped so like I said I am trying to chase all of it down. The car only has 114,000 miles on it and has No sludge so I am hoping to make it work for a good while. I know all of the war stories that are out there about a 2.7 but I had my mechanic check everything out and I do like this car I just wish I could do all of the work but health and body probs prevent me from anything big.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow thanks !! So I better do a better job of explaining what I can. I bought the car after it had had a complete valve job and a water pump and timing component replacement. So with all of that new we have replaced the radiator it had a small crack , all hoses, top water inlet, thermostat. I have also replaced TPS , Idle Air control (It is on it's way here), Map sensor, Cam sensor, the PVC w/hoses, I bought the car from a good mechanic and he volunteered to re set the intake just in case there was a leak. He did a vac test and it held steady (I forget what he said it was at) The car runs very well I just drove it to Missouri and back from south central Pa. I do get a hesitation from it when I go to give it gas but the tps helped with that some. I am hoping the IACV helps more with that since mine seems that the spring is weak. On our trip we got 27 mpg average so I was thinking what ever is wrong couldn't be to big. I do have a Denso O2 sensor ready to be shipped so like I said I am trying to chase all of it down. The car only has 114,000 miles on it and has No sludge so I am hoping to make it work for a good while. I know all of the war stories that are out there about a 2.7 but I had my mechanic check everything out and I do like this car I just wish I could do all of the work but health and body probs prevent me from anything big.
Oh and I forgot I also went and replaced the temp sensor as well as the High and Low fan relays so that I wouldn't have any overheating issues. The Plugs were replaced about 3000 miles ago. I think that is about it. I am wanting to resolve this because I want to start going thru the front and rear suspensions next. Like I said I do like what this car looks like and how it rides. I suffer from the long term results of a broken back so finding something I can ride in and drive comfortably is a huge plus.... Once again Thank You all for the help!!!
 

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I get the feeling that what he's referring to as a backfire may just be a miss that causes a jerk but no actual pop. Matter of fact, the only time I can recall someone mentioning a backfire before led to an engine not running and the discovery of a blown up intake from a timing issue.

If one of the upstream o2 sensors has crapped out with a high voltage code, from my experience either 1. it will be that code and a P0300, nothing specific to any cylinder, and the symptoms is that it randomly missfires mostly between 30 and 50 mph and may hesitate a second or two at about 1800 rpm when you accelerate from a stop then take off real quick. Or 2. you have the high voltage code only and the only symptom being the hesitation when accelerating.
I've seen them backfire thru the exhaust with leaky injectors; bad valve seats, and dead shorted O2 sensors. Not very common, only seen it once or twice. They will also overheat the cats doing this.

If it is in fact a misfire, not a backfire (two completely different things), then its possible the O2 sensor is causing the issue; but more likely something I mentioned in the previous post; (plugs coils etc), in my experience.
 

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Symptom List:
P0132-O2 SENSOR 1/1 VOLTAGE HIGH
P0138-O2 SENSOR 1/2 VOLTAGE HIGH
P0152-O2 SENSOR 2/1 VOLTAGE HIGH
P0158-O2 SENSOR 2/2 VOLTAGE HIGH
Test Note: All symptoms listed above are diagnosed using the same tests.
The title for the tests will be P0132-O2 SENSOR 1/1 VOLTAGE
HIGH.
When Monitored and Set Condition:
P0132-O2 SENSOR 1/1 VOLTAGE HIGH
When Monitored: The engine running for 119 seconds. O2 Sensor Heater Temperature is
greater than 585°C (1085°F). Battery voltage greater than 10.99 volts.
Set Condition: The Oxygen Sensor voltage is above 3.7 volts for 60 seconds. One trip
fault.
P0138-O2 SENSOR 1/2 VOLTAGE HIGH
When Monitored: The engine running for 119 seconds. O2 Sensor Heater Temperature is
greater than 585°C (1085°F). Battery voltage greater than 10.99 volts.
Set Condition: The Oxygen Sensor voltage is above 3.7 volts for 60 seconds. One trip
fault.
P0152-O2 SENSOR 2/1 VOLTAGE HIGH
When Monitored: The engine running for 119 seconds. O2 Sensor Heater Temperature is
greater than 585°C (1085°F). Battery voltage greater than 10.99 volts.
Set Condition: The Oxygen Sensor voltage is above 3.7 volts for 60 seconds. One trip
fault.
P0158-O2 SENSOR 2/2 VOLTAGE HIGH
When Monitored: The engine running for 119 seconds. O2 Sensor Heater Temperature is
greater than 585°C (1085°F). Battery voltage greater than 10.99 volts.
Set Condition: The Oxygen Sensor voltage is above 3.7 volts for 60 seconds. One trip
fault.
 

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Possible Causes:

O2 SENSOR ABOVE 3.7 VOLTS
O2 SENSOR
O2 RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN
O2 SIGNAL SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
 

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Might have a wiring problem at or near the O2 sensor? Wiring doipped on the exhaust and melted? Need to inspect it.

PO152 relates to Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1. That's the upstream sensor before the cat on the drivers side.

Check the wiring carefully there....and further into the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I have replaced the TPS and the Idle Air Control Valve. So I cleared the computer and when I started it up it took several mins till the light popped on. Now all I am getting is the 152 which is the O2 sensor on the drivers bank. So I ordered a NTK23131 from Carid.com and it wasn't to bad only 42. bucks with shipping. So all it is doing at the moment is that until it warms up it has a hesitation. So I am hoping this O2 sensor takes care of the light and hesitation. I have looked at all of the wiring and can find no melts it is all up in the looms and straps like it should be. The mechanic that put this back together is pretty good he did a complete Valve job and timing/water pump before I bought it. It had like 250 mi on the top end overhaul.I have just spent enough so I am trying to search out the problem myself. Tomorrow I am going to pull the plugs and check them for consistency and check all of the boots out for any cracks and such. Anyone know how to test the coils without a scope?
 
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