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I have this prob that when i accelerate my car pulls right. It pulls harder the harder i accelerate.i have no clue what it is....can someone help? :confused:
 

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I will have to go with allignment, or possibly tire pressure. but if its not one of those your in for some serious $$$ to fix the problem.
 

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Well hello i have the best and right answer for you my freind. The same thing was happening to me like 1 month ago. first i tougth it was and allingment well they told me it was the right inner tierod bearing or something anyways it came out to be 250.dollars for evrything which includes also a 4 wheel allingment.

so i think 175.00 to get it done but i think you can do it youre self. get it fixed imediately trust me. hope this helps
:) :D ;) :eek: :rolleyes: :cool: :p
 

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Hey...

It could be a VERY Worn out outer-tie rod... but like the others mention, check the Alignment... cost me 50 bux for the front of my car to be aligned when I changed the Tie-rods.. Also the air presure.. Has the tire got alot more wear than its opposite? Good sign of bad alignment...

I hope its a quicky fix!
 

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If it is not an alignment/bad tie rod issue. I would have to go with a broken motor moount.
 

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Or a Velocity Joint. (front drive-shaft thingeys)
 

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pimped... yer sig is funny as hell..... :p
 

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Sounds like torque steer. Theres a TSB, that involves shimming under the engine mounts to solve this. Let me see if I can find it.
 

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Here ya go.

DIAGNOSIS:
To assure correct diagnosis, it is important to follow the steps outlined below in the order shown. Road test the vehicle before and after each step to verify that the lead condition has been corrected. When evaluating a vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of road crown and cross wind. A neutral vehicle will exhibit a small amount of drift on both right and left crowned roads (normal crown sensitivity). A vehicle with pronounced lead/pull may have one or more of the following conditions:

ROOT CAUSE/CORRECTIVE ACTIONS FOR VEHICLE LEAD

1. UNEQUAL TIRE PRESSURE
Adjust tire pressure to the pressure stated on door placard. Make sure the tire pressure is equal on all four tires and evaluate the car. Also note that the tire size and type are correct and match each other. If the car still has a lead condition go to step 2.

2. TIRE CONICITY
Excessive tire conicity is one of the more frequent causes of vehicle lead. Cross switch the front tires and evaluate the car. If the car still leads in the same direction or gets worse, return the front tires to their original position, and go to step 3.

3. SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT
Check and record the vehicle alignment settings including caster. Non-symmetrical front caster or camber can sometimes cause a lead condition or can be used to fix a lead condition. To bias the front suspension caster and/or camber alignment settings to correct or minimize a lead condition perform the Repair Procedure. If the car still leads after the alignment bias procedure, go to step 4 or 5 accordingly.

4. TORQUE INDUCED LEAD
Torque induced lead on LH vehicles is a condition that is generally noticed at speeds above 30 mph, and usually gets worse with mild to moderate acceleration. To repair a vehicle for torque steer perform the engine mount shim section of the Repair Procedure below. If the car still leads and all of the previous steps have been performed, go to step 5.

5. STEERING GEAR VALVE IMBALANCE
Steering gear valve imbalance can sometimes cause a vehicle lead. Although there is no quick lest or measurement that can be performed to verify a good or bad steering gear valve, generally the steering efforts will feel much lighter in the lead direction and heavier in the opposite direction with an unbalanced valve. Replace the steering gear only as a "last resort" to solve the problem. To replace the steering gear follow the procedure in Group 19 of the appropriate service manual,




Repair Procedure

A. CASTER BIAS

1. On a vehicle that leads left, create more caster on the left than on the right. On a right lead vehicle, the procedure is opposite. Try to get at least 0.8 degree of cross caster, but do not exceed the maximum specification of 1.0 degree.

2. Loosen the four engine cradle to frame bolts. Rotate the cradle forward on the side that you need to increase the caster. Tighten the engine cradle to frame bolts, 163 Nm (120 ft.lbs.).

3. Center the steering wheel and set toe (toe must be reset before doing another caster sweep). Verify that the lead is corrected. If vehicle still leads, continue with the camber bias procedure.


B. CAMBER BIAS

1. On a vehicle that leads left, create either more negative camber on the left or more positive camber on the right. On a right lead vehicle, the procedure is opposite. To minimize uneven tire wear, try to achieve the same amount of camber bias on each side. For example, if the car leads left, compensate by setting the front left camber to -0.3 degrees and front right camber to +0.3 degrees. Do not exceed cross camber maximum specification of 0.7 degree, or individual camber specification of -0.6 to +0.6 degrees.

2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires are not supporting the weight of the vehicle and remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove one of the strut clevis to knuckle bolts and loosely assemble a reduced shank bolt, p/n 06505362AA, and nut, p/n 06505363AA in its place. Loosen the other strut clevis to knuckle bolt to provide for adjustment. In severe cases where a wide range of adjustment is required, two reduced shank bolts should be used per knuckle.

4. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Lower the vehicle until the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the suspension.

5. Adjust the front camber to the preferred setting by physically pushing in or pulling out the top of the wheel and tire assembly as required. When the camber is correct, tighten both strut clevis to knuckle bolts, 217 Nm (160 ft.lbs.). Set front toe to specifications.


C. ENGINE MOUNT SHIM

1. On vehicles that torque steer to the left, shim the left engine mount between cradle and lower mount bracket. On vehicles that torque steer to the right, the procedure is opposite.

2. Due to engine to hood clearance concerns, only two shims maximum can be used to correct a torque steer condition. It is recommended that only one shim be tried at first so as not to over correct the original condition. The engine mount shim is p/n 05016903AA for 98-99 MY, and 04797441 for 93-97 MY.

3. To properly secure the engine mount assembly to the cradle with the shims in place, on the 98-99 MY, the lower mount bracket must be replaced with a bracket that has full threaded studs. The left side replacement bracket is p/n 05016901AA, and the right side bracket is p/n 05016902AA.

4. For the 98-99 MY the engine mount assembly must be removed from the vehicle in order to replace the lower mount bracket. Please follow the engine mount removal and installation instructions in section 9 of the appropriate service manual. Loosen the two lower bracket attaching nuts and secure replacement bracket in its place. Torque nuts to 61 Nm (45 ft.lbs.).

5. Reinstall the engine mount assembly into the vehicle with one shim initially, and evaluate the vehicle. If the vehicle still torque steers in the same direction, repeat above procedure and install second shim.
 

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Jack up the front of your car, make sure the steering wheel is locked.

grab a hold of the tire and try to see if you can get it to pivot without the other tire moving. If it does this, (try both sides) your tierods are shot.

Next try to wiggle the tire up and down on the wheel hub. If they do this, you most likely need to replace your wheel bearings..

Both of these are common LH repairs esp. on a car with some mileage on it.
 
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