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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I know I'm pretty new here but I have been viewing as a guest for awhile and now I have a question.

I've been hearing alot about engine flushing and sludge build up, my question is what is the procedure for removing all of that **** myself?

Is as simple as just putting some additive in my oil and let it drain out or what??

Thanks to any that respond.
 

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To do a good job with it your best bet is to take it to a shop that specializes in it. The procedure generally runs about $200.

If you have that many miles on it, it has probably been pretty well maintained as 2.7s don't get there if are neglected. If you have been running synthetic motor oil, then you most likely don't have a sludge problem. You can try a high detergent motor oil and filter change for a short interval or just change over to a synthetic if you aren't already using one and do a couple of short interval changes.

Have you had the timing chain and water pump replaced yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nope haven't have either the water pump or timing chain replaced yet, unless the previous owner did it, but I bought the car with 68k on it 3 years ago.

I do not currently use a synthetic blend motor oil. I am leary about switching over to it as I have heard that it can loosen any build up that I have now and put the debris into the lubrication system.

What about starting with 1 quart synthetic and 4 quarts regular and changing the oil after 500 miles, then go with 2 quarts synthetic and 3 quarts regular and changing after 500 miles and so on.

what do you think?
 

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I'm personally not going to change the water pump, timing chain, or switch to synthetic. It's been a fine running machine all this time and it's accustomed to the same old thing, so I don't want to throw a wrench into that synergy and potentially detonate it sooner than need be. :D

I'm hoping to get over 200k out of this 2.7 without touching it. If it detonates, then the hunt will be on for a 3.2 or 3.5. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
IntrepidBus IV said:
I'm personally not going to change the water pump, timing chain, or switch to synthetic. It's been a fine running machine all this time and it's accustomed to the same old thing, so I don't want to throw a wrench into that synergy and potentially detonate it sooner than need be. :D

I'm hoping to get over 200k out of this 2.7 without touching it. If it detonates, then the hunt will be on for a 3.2 or 3.5. :)
I'm with you on the not changing to synthetic but as for the timing chain and water pump obviously if those go, they need to be replaced.
 

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Budweiser said:
I'm with you on the not changing to synthetic but as for the timing chain and water pump obviously if those go, they need to be replaced.
I just hate to tear the thing apart and do that, when the thing's given me no warning signs at all. Although, in some cases I'm sure it can be gone in a second with no warning. :eek: It's all about risk I guess... and for the most part I'm a risk taker. :brow2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well whats the worst that could happen if the chain and/or the water pump fails?

If when they fail it does serious damage to your engine it would be a good idea to get it replaced.

Like I said I am at 142k and have never had any major problems with the car, just typical maintenence ie oil changes, tires, brakes, radiator flush, tranny flush.

But I am concerned about the timing chain and the water pump going on me soon. And my looking at the FSM it looks to be a job that I wouldn't feel comfortable doing myself and it sounds to be a pretty expensive operation.
 

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Budweiser said:
But I am concerned about the timing chain and the water pump going on me soon. And my looking at the FSM it looks to be a job that I wouldn't feel comfortable doing myself and it sounds to be a pretty expensive operation.
Those are my exact thoughts... why sink hundreds into the old smooth running 2.7, when it wouldn't take much more to secure a nice 3.2 :biggthump
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
IntrepidBus IV said:
Those are my exact thoughts... why sink hundreds into the old smooth running 2.7, when it wouldn't take much more to secure a nice 3.2 :biggthump
When you say wouldn't take much more, how much more are we talkin here and also is it a complicated process to drop a 3.2 in?
 

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One way to find out if the water pump is going is to get an oil analysis done about every other oil change by someplace like Blackstone Labs. They can tell you if there are any trace amounts of water / antifreeze in the oil which may happen long before the pump seals acutally fail and then you can premptively replace the pump and chain before any damage is done.

The other thing to check is the water pump weap hole for any indications of leakage which is up near where the lower radiator hose connects to the block - kind of hard to see.

That's what I'm doing and currently sitting at 106k+ miles and running well.
 

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yall are lucky... im at 99k and my **** messed up. (even though it looks as if my engine might still be good) Now im replacing timing chain with kit with waterpump, number 3 coil pack, valve seals, PCV valve, gaskets/seals, and probably oil pump... and here yall are at these high miles with no problems! Be thankful ! haha... only thing i dont understand is...

why do you think changing to a synthetic will be bad? That synthetic oil will knock away debris and cause your engine to **** up? Then why do so many people around here suggest switching over?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Decided to go with my home town local mechanic after the dealership wanted to charge me $600 for labor! my local shop will charge $225 for labor.

$45/hour vs $120/hour. You make the call.
 

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With that kind of mileage you may also want to have the valve stem seals replaced. If you are using about a quart of oil every 1500 miles that is the most likely reason. Since they have to pull the valve covers and chains to do the timing chain anyway they are already better than half way there and the valve seals are only a couple of dollars each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
jgams said:
With that kind of mileage you may also want to have the valve stem seals replaced. If you are using about a quart of oil every 1500 miles that is the most likely reason. Since they have to pull the valve covers and chains to do the timing chain anyway they are already better than half way there and the valve seals are only a couple of dollars each.
It is burning oil, what about the oil rings?
 

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Budweiser said:
It is burning oil, what about the oil rings?
It depends on how and when it is burning oil as to what the likely cause is. If it is acting just like description in the thread that is stickyed called"is your 2.7 burning oil?" then it is the valve stem seals most likely( oil smoke after idleing). general condition of the rings can be checked with a compression test.but bad rings will usually cause smoke anytime you excellerate or as you coast to a stop.
 
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