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Hey all,

I am wondering what oils would be the best, I have seen the Valvoline MaxLife, "formulated for engines over 75,000 miles" is there any truth to this. Or would I be better off with a pure synthetic or blended, mine has 76,000. One thing I wonder is with the synthetic being thinner is it more prone to leak on a car with some miles on it? Also should a person use the "engine flushs" to clean out deposits, are they any good or can they do more bad than good?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

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I went to straight synthetic from whatever the owner before me used. I had a slight main seal drip.. (left overnight it would drip a tiny tiny spot on the driveway)
Now I use Valvolene 5W-40 full synthetic in there when its cold.. probably switch to 10W40 or a 50/50 mix of 5W-40 and 20W-50 in the summer time. I changed the oil every 2000 miles for the first two changes, to get all the extra crap and old oil out of the engine. Now I use the Larger size filter, (a Wixx gold from NAPA auto) and 6 qts of Valvolene full synthetic every 4-5K miles. I don't need to change it at that time really (oil looks almost as clear as the stuff I put in), but I do it for good measure. It doesn't drip anymore (the synthetic STOPPED the leak atcually), it is quiter (no more lifter/rod noise that the car had a little of when I got it), and it seems overall smoother..... (probably all in my head on the smooth part tho)

So after that long ass novel I say, GO FOR SYNTHETIC

[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: Lafrad ]
 

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i run pennzoil 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter. no engine problems thus far. i have heard great stuff about valvoline durablend, my buddy runs that in his 86 olds (230k miles) and it works great for him. mobil 1 synthetic is supposed to be a good oil too but i've never known anybody that uses it, so i can't throw in my own 2 cents. i would stay away from the cheaper wal-mart style oils. they are less expensive, yes, but this is your car...do you want cheap stuff in the crankcase?
 

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Hey guys, I have found from experience with other cars that Mobil is the best I have found. I had a dodge shadow 4cyl and after 110,000 miles I needed a new head gasket. It had Mobil 1 since day one. There was no build up, goopy oil ****, no wear really on bearings. It was all clean and shiny. Same thing goes for when we replaced intake gasket and head gasket on my intrepid which has like 73k miles. The same deal clean no wear etc... As for additives dont use them at all. There is a notice Chysler sent out to all dealerships not to use them at all, my uncle is a mechanic at Fairway Dodge in Ridgewood NJ and showed it to me. Basiclly the point of the announcement they got was that it added too much phosphorus into the engine. bad thing. As far as filters go either get a top of the line fram or purolator.

Brad
 

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I had mobil one for an oil change in there, and it got dirty REALLY FAST. I guess that is just my expeiance.
valvolene seems to stay cleaner and keeps the sounds down... :dozeoff:
 

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Just to let you know. Clean oil isn't doing it's job. Oil is there to lubricate things but it is supposed to get dark. That means that it is cleaning the deposits left around the rings and general buildup from the inside of your engine. When an oil stays really clean for a long time it means that it isn't cleaning the inside of your engine like it is formulated to do. Buildup is a problem in some engines so many oils are formulated to fight build up. The filters job is to clean the oil. I have run Mobil 1 full synthetic in my Chevelle since I rebuilt the engine and the last time I pulled the pan on it there was no build up what so ever on the block walls or bottom of the pan. The engine had about 30k since rebuild which isn't long but the oil was doing it's job. I have been using Castro Syntec in my Intrepid since the day that I bought it w/ the Fram Tough Guard filters and I go 5k between oil changes with it and always have. The first couple of oil changes were done on 3k intervals to make sure that all of the deposits were cleaned from within the engine and then moved on to 5k between changes.

The benefit of Synthetic oils are that they don't break down as rapidly as conventional oils do. Generally with conventional oils you have to change your oil every 3k, but with Synthetics you can go 5k without worry. I have heard of some people only changing the filters every 5k and changing the oil every 20-30k on their cars without worry and these are people that have been doing this for over 100,000 miles with their cars. I have not been so bold as to try that.

I do know that you get what you pay for when it comes to oils and for my engines it has always been the top of the line.
 

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In my 98ES I finally went with 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic with a Mobil 1 filter. Running great, smoother especially on the higher end, which was then somewhat offset by the Bosch Platinum +4's but ehhhh I'll take the extra performance. I'll probably only change the oil every 7000 miles now but I probably still have some mopar fluid lingering in their so i'll probably change it sooner to get it out. The cheapest place to get the Mobil 1 is WalMart in the 6 quart case. I paid $23. Filter was $12.

Then I'll switch to Amsoil for my tranny fluid soon enough as well.
I'll let you all know how that goes.

Don't forget to change your differential fluid as well, I did. :(
 

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please don't test in this thread. go ahead and make or reply to a TEST thread in the Whatever forum. that way we keep these forum threads on topic. thanks
 

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I dunno.. the valvolene seems to run smoother and quieter (those noisy lifters are a pain in the ass). So my assumption is the valvolene holds its properties better as it warms up. the mobil 1 just... it just doesn't give me that good feeling.. probably just all in my head, but... considering most cars run on regular penziol 10-30 for upwards of 200K, any respectable synthetic will do.
 

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buy a chilton's manual. it has the procedure right in there with good pics. i could copy down the instructions but it wouldn't help much without the daigrams. i paid 8 bucks on ebay, the best 8 bucks i ever spent.
 

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I've got to say it - Amsoil Synthetic Turbo Formulated 10W30 is the best oil to run in a 3.5L. Just my opinion, and everyone else's is wrong. :) j/k
 

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Differential Fluid Change:
The following is from TSB21-10-99

!. Clean all fluid from the differential case. (Outside case).
2. Drain the differential fluid by removing the differential drain and fill plugs.
3. Install the differential drain plug. Tighten to 7Nm(60 in. lbs.).
4. Fill the differential with 32 ounces of Mopar 75W-90 Gear Lubricant, p/n 04549624.
5. Install the differential fill plug. Tighten to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).

This TSB deals with case venting. In cold weather, it is possible for pressure to build in the case and force fluid out the top vent.
There is a new fill plug and vent assembly (Pt. No. 05011589AA) available to prevent this. I am going to get one for my 95 LHS.

FredB
 

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Everybody will have a different opinion on what oil and filter to use, which is good. I, personally use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and filter- even before, when i had the 97' 3.3L. Working in the autoparts business, we carry all different types of oil. The Maxlife.-Castrol Syntec. and Durablend- I've tried them all once, but Mobil 1 (for me) is a better choice. The only problem i have is forking over the 40 something bucks for filter and quarts of oil for the oil change! Has anyone ever try that synthetic blend from Purple Royal, its suppose to help compression and hp ( dont know if thats really possible just from a oil) but the stuff looks like something to look at...
 

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If you plan on keeping your car for ten years and 150K I would use a synthetic oil.

On the other hand, don't waste your money, change your oil/filter every 3000 miles with normal oil and your engine will be happy.

My two cents.
 

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Nothing but Mobil 1 in all mine since new. Just did intake and valve cover gaskets on my 130K mile 3.5. The top side of the heads, valve train etc were all a shiney golden color....absolutely NO evidence of anything resembling sludge. Same for my 2.2 turbo cars that use the engine oil to lube the turbo bearings (and those bearings get HOT!). Recently did a head gasket and checked the rod/main bearings at 125K on my 87 GLHS. There was ZERO cylinder wear and the bearings mic out exactly the same as the new ones I was prepared to install. Inside of the valve cover as well as the oil pan were the same shiney golden color I mentioned on the 3.5 Concorde.
 
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