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I was just replacing a lift piston in my trunk and used the key fob to open the trunk and accidently hit the lock first. When I threw the keys on the seat and closed the door I was locked out. (When you hear the horn chirp as your playing with the keys stop and think as I should have and stick the keys in your pocket) Anyway, since I did this at home I checked some old lock out threads and found one that suggested using a tire iron flat tip to pry out the top corner of the drivers door. Then get a coat hanger and reach down and pull up the lock release. Another suggested a wedge to pry the door open so I went into the garage and pulled out a plastic tree cutting wedge and it worked like a charm on the top of the door without any paint damage. Plenty of room on the side of the door to fit in the coat hanger which I found too flimsy so I used a metal rod plant hanger that already had a hook bent on the end of it. It was pretty thick so I stuck it in way up at the top of the door where the opening was the widest and then slide it down to where I could work it over to the lock and bang I was in!
 

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glad you got in without breaking anything..... me and my brother spent about 20 minutes trying to get into his girlfriend's 1st gen .. using a pry bar, bent piece of aluminum flat stock to lift the lock...
I think if one is prone to locking their keys in..they should take a 1/8" drill bit.. put a hole in one of the lock "button/plunger" things.. make it easier to get a bent coat hanger into the hole and lift the lock.. that's just if they do it a lot .. I have only locked mine in once..called cops and they had me unlocked in 10 min..7 of it was waiting for them to arrive.. lucky they didnt charge for the service.
 

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I locked mine in the WalMart parking lot last week (second time I have done that in 9 years) - took the remote and key off my keychain to get the number off one of the batteries so I could get a new pair in WalMart - tossed the remote and key onto the passenger seat, stuck the key chain in my pocket, got out and locked the door. :)

A lot of police departments have stopped providing unlock service. Fortunately, WalMart gave me the name of a local smith that only charged $30. He told me I was lucky to have gotten him (he had just returned to town from a trip when I called) - he said the other smiths in town charge well over $100 for unlock service.

They make a thin bladder device that you stick into the top of the door frame and pump with air to do what you did with the wedge. Anyone know where to buy one of those?

I keep telling myself that I'm going to do a hide-a-key on my cars like I used to - or get one of those new-fangled plastic ones that you can keep in your wallet.
 

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I always have a spare on me at all times, plus I have another at home in a safe. The spare I keep with my house key and have it clipped to the inside of my pocket using a spring link. That's the best and cheapest way I've found to get into a locked car!
 

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I had a thought looking in my bare trunk the other day. If you got an interlock cable, hooked it up to the panic release from the inside of the trunk, and then routed it to the trunk vent you could have a trunk release from the outside of the car that was really well hidden. Just don't make it obvious from under the car by putting something like a handle there.

With that said, I won't ever bother because thats what spare keys are for.
 

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CAUTION having a spare key MIGHT NOT HELP.

Be aware how the 2007 Intrepid (and I don't know which other models/years), works:
- The KEY in the DOOR operates a SWITCH, it does NOT unlock the door.
- IF your battery is so dead the key doesn't unlock the door and the remote doesn't work...
You have to take off the front right wheel (which you can't easily do as you can't get in the trunk) then take off the battery compartment cover inside the wheel well!
I owned one, but did not take above action, NOR SEE the batt compartment etc, but I believe that to be correct.
I lucked out, and the window was a bit open, so used a bail from a 5 gallon pail, which had a right-angle bend in the end, to lift up on the inside door lock, which -- I just realized -- thank goodness REALLY unlocks the door, rather than operating a switch like the key.

The dealer's answer to "can't get it" - have it towed to the dealer. Presumably they drag it to where they can get a jack under the right front, do the battery trick, etc.

The place under the hood where you attach jumper cables is NOT the battery, just points of connection.
VV
 

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This was a 2007. * ERROR * The current owner says "The keys don't turn in the door".
I had mis-read the "key not opening the door" as a sign the key operated a SWITCH, but it would appear something happened in the car's history that the ignition key doesn't match the door key.
 

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* ERROR? *
The present owner says the key DOESN'T TURN in the door. I guess that means I have a UNIQUE problem with a key that only works in the trunk and the ignition. So my "guess" that the key not working was because it operated a switch - (because the door wouldn't open when the battery was dead) was probably BOGUS. I'll ask my GF (for whom I bought the car) if she knows anything about the keys.
 

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There is no such thing as a 2007 Intrepid. LH car production stopped with MY 2004.
 

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LH cars with factory alarm have a switch in each front door to deactivate the alarm using the ignition/door key. The switch isn't inside the lock cylinder, it's attached to the back of it.

If the key won't turn in the door lock cylinder then there's an issue with the lock cylinder itself as in seized, the lock cylinder has been changed or the key is incorrect for the lock cylinder it's put in. Key could also be worn. Or the door latch assembly or rods that connect the door latch to the door lock cylinder have an issue.

The only way to investigate is to remove the inner door panel and inspect all these pieces.
 

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CAUTION having a spare key MIGHT NOT HELP.

Be aware how the 2007 Intrepid (and I don't know which other models/years), works:
  • The KEY in the DOOR operates a SWITCH, it does NOT unlock the door.
  • IF your battery is so dead the key doesn't unlock the door and the remote doesn't work...
You have to take off the front right wheel (which you can't easily do as you can't get in the trunk) then take off the battery compartment cover inside the wheel well!
I owned one, but did not take above action, NOR SEE the batt compartment etc, but I believe that to be correct.
I lucked out, and the window was a bit open, so used a bail from a 5 gallon pail, which had a right-angle bend in the end, to lift up on the inside door lock, which -- I just realized -- thank goodness REALLY unlocks the door, rather than operating a switch like the key.

The dealer's answer to "can't get it" - have it towed to the dealer. Presumably they drag it to where they can get a jack under the right front, do the battery trick, etc.

The place under the hood where you attach jumper cables is NOT the battery, just points of connection.
VV

You're responding to a post that's almost 10 years old !! the last post in here was Oct 2010 before you replied.
 
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