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Unless there is evidence that the boots are no longer insulating and are causing missing, I wouldn't change them. I say that after having two Concordes - a 2.7 that is still running great with over 270k miles on it still on original boots, and a 3.2 that I lost with a broken timing belt about 3 years ago with about 200k miles on it, still running on its original boots at the time of its demise. As they say - YMMV. Wouldn't hurt to put a skim coating of silicone grease on the boot surfaces to keep them in good shape. By skim coating, I mean no thickness - rub it all over them and then wipe off with a paper towel or rag - basically they will have a sheen that they didn't have before putting the grease on them. Put a light coating on the ID of the boot tip so it seals against the spark plug ceramic so no air gaps/arcing.

Which Champion part number are you putting in?
 

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Unless there is evidence that the boots are no longer insulating and are causing missing, I wouldn't change them. I say that after having two Concordes - a 2.7 that is still running great with over 270k miles on it still on original boots, and a 3.2 that I lost with a broken timing belt about 3 years ago with about 200k miles on it, still running on its original boots at the time of its demise. As they say - YMMV. Wouldn't hurt to put a skim coating of silicone grease on the boot surfaces to keep them in good shape. By skim coating, I mean no thickness - rub it all over them and then wipe off with a paper towel or rag - basically they will have a sheen that they didn't have before putting the grease on them. Put a light coating on the ID of the boot tip so it seals against the spark plug ceramic so no air gaps/arcing.

Which Champion part number are you putting in?
My Trep is running fine so I will skip replacing the boots.

The plugs are Champion Double Plat, Part Number: 7034 at Autozone
 

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My Trep is running fine so I will skip replacing the boots.

The plugs are Champion Double Plat, Part Number: 7034 at Autozone
That should do fine. It's the double plat version of the recommended single plat 3034.

The electrode that gets 90% of the wear is the positive one, which for our cars is the center electrode. The center electrode (coil secondary) goes negative in voltage relative to the vehicle ground (threaded base of spark plug) to create the spark, *and* electrons always flow from negative to positive*. The wear (on the center electrode) literally comes from the electrons ripping metal atoms from the negative electrode when they jump the gap. A double plat plug should not last any longer or give any better performance than dual plat on our cars.

*If anyone wants to challenge me on either of the two facts in that sentence, you might want to do a little research before doing so. :)
 

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our cars have coil packs not boots. there are no "spark plug wires" the coil packs are very rugged and durable compared to old garbage cap and rotor, plug nonsense.
just do the plugs you will be fine.
 

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Actually there are replaceable boots between the each coil and the spark plug. RockAuto, drill down: DODGE 2000 INTREPID 3.2L V6 Ignition Spark Plug (Coil-On-Plug) Boot

While I've never had to replace them, there are some who have posted here that they did in fact have to replace some of theirs.

 
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