Yes, you do have to do an alignment after replacing tie rods. If you mark them and you are extremely careful you don't have to but, it is really recommended that you do an alignment. It wouldn't hurt anyway believe me. Even brand new cars are not in perfect alignment. Did you take the stabilizer bar loose? I don't really think that 2 mm is that big of a deal. You will probably be OK.
Matt 97 3.5
Thanks chaps, .. Yeah, I am taking her
in for alignment tommorow, Its pretty well aligned I measured the threads and counted them, but still I can feel a difference, but wow what a difference the steering has, so smooth now I changed that faulty end
Hopefully now when I brake that wheel wont follow the contours of the road.
Hey, are tie rod ends easy to change yourself (I'm assuming your doing the outer ones)?
You also talk about the stabilizer bar. Which bar is the stabilizer bar and does it go by a different name? On a rough road this weekend I could here a light "boinging" sound. I'm pretty sure this is a sway bar, but when I went to my Hayes manual it doesn't mention "sway bar". Is the sway bar the same as the stabilizer bar?
Stabilizer and sway bar are a term used for the same part. It minimizes body roll and keeps the car "flat" on the ground, if you will. I have found that if you hear a light knocking from the suspension most likely if you have some decent miles on the car it is probilly the stabilizer links. The bushings in those usually go out. You said a "boinging", it might be the same thing. I had to change mine on my Intrepid. Made a world of difference. The inner tie rod ends are the ones that are common to go out on the LH cars. The inner and outer ends are fairly easy to change but, you will have to get an alignment too. You will need a big hammer and maybe a pickle fork to get the outer ones loose. I also had to put those on my Trep. Good Luck.
Matt 97 ES 3.5
Well I changed them , I was careful about my turns etc on the tie-rod end, I did the outer one...
She rides like a new car now, I was shocked that I wasnt really out with the Alignment (Toe-in / Toe-out`s).. all was pretty good..
The Stablizer bar can be a DIY job, but I have heard that you need to take off the cradle (1st Gen`s) Which is something I wouldnt dare yet do.. But it looks like the general consensus is that its gonna be ok, so I`ll leave it. Other things need attention
CV Joint replacement
Re-train Tranny computer (pretty easy)
Oh happy-joy-joy I love doing it really
Thanks for all your adivice, as always its appreciatted.
You shouldn't have to replace the sway bar. Its just the links that need replacement. The bushings wear out in them. They connect the sway bar to the suspension. They are pretty easy to replace and well worth the time to get that annoying knocking gone. I'm glad I did mine. A knock could be from the strut mounts too but, most likely with my LH car experience it is usually the links. You can take the links loose and then take it for a drive to hear if the noise went away. Just don't drive to crazy because you will have a loose suspension. Sometimes the pads in your front calipers rattle too so, hit the brakes to see if the sound goes away. I can't stand rattles. Matt 97 3.5 ES
think a suspension squeak (very noticeable, inside and outside the car, even inside when at speed with fan blowing and radio on) would go away if i lubed the tie rods? i don't know the damndest about suspension but lubeing a squeaky part always seems like an easy attempt at a fix, right?
guess this is where i should also ask what kind of lubricant might have the desired effect...
Tie rods don't usually squeak they just get worn out and get play in them which gives you a loose feel in the steering. You should lube your tie rods. The original Mopar tie rods do not have any grease fittings but, if you get a good quality tie rod they should have zerk fittings so you could grease them. I grease mine every 3000 miles when I change oil. It is also a good idea to buy some silicon spray in a spray can and spray your tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, CV boots etc. Replacing the sway bar links are easy and I believe if you take the tire off it will allow you better access to them. My sway bar links also have grease fitting. I do recommend Moog brand as an aftermarket part. Matt 97 3.5 ES
I changed outer tie rod ends on my '96 Concorde yesterday, but now my wife feels the car is out of alignment and handling erratically. I was pretty careful to mark and count threads/turns, etc., but I'm sure it doesn't take much to throw things out by a few degrees.
Overall, this should be a pretty easy job - but the driver side was very tough to turn in and out of the sleeve, passenger side was much easier. I paid $20.99 each for TRW replacement tie rod ends (no grease fittings, but a slightly bigger head than stock).
I'm taking it in for an alignment today - $69.99 if it needs 4 wheel alignment, $59.99 if only the fronts.
I had it lined up Monday. After changing the outer tie rod ends, it was pretty far out of alignment. That was after I attempted to count the threads/turns, etc. The good news was that they were able to align it without any other problems coming up, so I'm assuming the front end is good to go. The bad news was that they had to do a 4 wheel alignment, so it cost me the extra $10.00
My wife definitely noticed the difference after changing the tie rod ends and the alignment - said it drives like a new car again.
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