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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ran into a problem cleaning headlight w/ pics

So I wanted to get the head lights as clear as possible. So I dry sanded one with a fine sheet of sand paper. The result was a smooth but very cloudy head light. I tryed using the Blue magic plexiglass cleaner but it really didn't help, So now I'm stuck with a head light that is cloudier than ever! Any ideas? Thx!:crazy:

I did the driver's side today, so here are some pics of the result and the one I hadn't done.

http://www.ic.sunysb.edu/Stu/idaniley/

Thx everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's hard to say what grit because it came in an assorted pack. It was fairly fine when I touched it and it took a while to get the surface smooth, which BTW is smoother than my ass, which is something else that people can't look through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Would the next step be to polish the crap out of it? Or to wet sand it and then polish it? Thx!
 

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virtueixi said:
It's hard to say what grit because it came in an assorted pack. It was fairly fine when I touched it and it took a while to get the surface smooth, which BTW is smoother than my ass, which is something else that people can't look through.
There should be a number on the back of it ...?
I do a little wood-working and there's always a number on the back of the stuff I use ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I guess I'll just buy 1000 grit and use that. I'll have to polish it by hand. Is 150 really that rough? It felt kind of smooth. Can some one explain how the numbering system works? Is 1000 more fine or coarse that 150?
 

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the higher the number, the hight number of grains in an inch i believe, so the higher the number, the finer the sand on the paper, hence the less-course the paper. did i confuse you?

cause i think i confused myself......;)
 

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150 is at best a meduim grit paper and way too rough for polishing. Follow the above suggestions but you may want to start with around a 500 to smooth out the really deep scratches caused by the 150, followed by 800, 1000, and 1200. There are even finer grit papers that are very expensive but are in the micron range for fine metal polishing. Wet sanding is best for a finer, more uniform final finish.
 

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Personally, I went with 1000, 1500 and then 2000 (hard to find, but found it at Autozone) all wet sanding. I finished it off with clear plastic polish from Autozone.

This worked for a while. I'm replacing my anyway... why? because I can't get the damn screw out to change my headlights!

Hardwarz
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
bongobobny said:
150 is at best a meduim grit paper and way too rough for polishing. Follow the above suggestions but you may want to start with around a 500 to smooth out the really deep scratches caused by the 150, followed by 800, 1000, and 1200. There are even finer grit papers that are very expensive but are in the micron range for fine metal polishing. Wet sanding is best for a finer, more uniform final finish.
Do you think that 400 would be ok to smooth out the scratches from 150? I already bought 400 and 1000, I guess I'll have to go buy more tommorow. At what point do you think I should see the area begin to clear up? Thx.

Birdz, I gotcha the lower the grit the greater the scratches I make on my head lights.:biggrin:
 

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virtueixi said:
Do you think that 400 would be ok to smooth out the scratches from 150? I already bought 400 and 1000, I guess I'll have to go buy more tomorrow. At what point do you think I should see the area begin to clear up? Thx.
400 should work fine for the next step ... but I'd go with BongoBob and use a 600-800 before the 1000. You could jump straight to 1000 ... but it'll take more paper and a lot more elbow grease that way.
Hypnos went to polish after the 1000, again it's a personal choice. A step at 1200 will make the polishing easier, but it adds another step and more sand paper ... I'm 50/50 on that call - but I've got power tools!
Just remember, wet sanding gives a more consistent finish and makes the sand paper last longer ... Good luck!!! :)
 

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Something that I didn't see mentioned was that wet sanding can only be done with paper marked "wetordry" or similar. Garnet paper, (for woodwork) aluminum oxide, (body work) will dissolve in water. Most people will be aware of this, just stating it "in case".
After wet sanding with progressively finer grit, I've used automotive rubbing compound, then polishing compound with good results on Lexan headlight lenses.
 

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Is polishing done with Rubbing Compound or plain wax, or is there something special out there ?
 
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