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Discussion Starter #1
Parts round-up continues. I've got the PVC cut, sanded and primed. The rubber got here yesterday, but I'm waiting on the aluminum before I cut it so that I can use a piece of it to support the rubber (as suggested in the how-to). Still dithering over clamps - Stainless t-bolt, Anodized, I don't know? Any suggestions? Keep in mind the car is silver. I also need to pick up the 3/4 to 1/2 hose connector, but figure I can find them anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here is what I want to put on the main tube which will be painted silver:

What do you all think? Steven? Also, anyone have any better ideas for putting it on besides stencil? I'm thinking of custom dry transfer, but that would be some money.
 

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Thats an awesome logo! WHy dont you get a custom vynal decal made? THey're pretty cheap and would be easier than making a stencil to paint with. Hope that helps :D
 

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Personally I'm going with the T-bolts. I noticed last night while I was in Home Depot getting the 3/4" to 1/2" elbow that they have 4" SS clmaps for just over a buck (Canadian). They must be paying you to take them in the US. :p

I going for the "stock" look with my L Intake and painting the PVC mat black.

Good Luck!
 

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Originally posted by RapidTransit:
Here is what I want to put on the main tube which will be painted silver
yeah, check out eDecals.com Just send them that picture you have and they will reproduce it and send you a picture of it to make sure you like it. That is where I order my car club's logos from. If you order a lot of the decals, email them and ask for a discount. They will discount you 10% or more. If I get the L-Intake, I will put one of those decals on my car with all my other ones.

[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: subsonic ]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This one time... at band clamp...

I decided to go with the regular garden variety band clamps (big hose clamp). Price was the main factor. A little over a buck, compared to $4-6 each. Got all six for the price of one clamp + shipping at innovative turbo. They look real good with the non-perforated part of the band facing up.

Best tool for the bevel cut on the aluminum is a cone shaped dremel metal cutter. Just hold 'er down and ream away!

I'm finally ready for installation. The PVC has been painted Silver to match my car with one coat of clearcoat over that. I'll put a couple more coats of clearcoat on once I decide to use a stencil or apply decals. I haven't gotten around to having a custom vinyl decal made ($$$) so I'm leaning toward the stencil. Computer - printer - exacto knife - voila! You've got a stencil.

BTW - painting was accomplished by passing a string tied to a scrap of dowel through the tube and suspending it from an eye-hook in the garage.

Anyway, I'll probably not do the install until next weekend. Picutures and an update then...
 

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Yeah the T-bolts were the part of my order they screwed up on. The T-bolts look awesome and would work fine on the 4 middle connections of the L Intake, but there's no way it would work on the TB or Airbox ends. Anyway I ran out of patience and got me some SS clamps (make sure the screw is SS as well).

I now tried the cone shaped metal cutter as well. Works good. Not sure how long it'll last.
 

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Watch out when you do the install. My hands look like hell now. I bet the Engineers at DC sharpen the strut tower brace on purpose.
 

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Anyone that does an install - take the stut brace OUT!!!!! It still isn't easy but it sure is better than trying to work around it!
 

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Now you tell me. I also noticed a few things mounted on the underside of the brace, so after the first cut, I figured "what the hell".

It's definitely preferable to have an extra set of hands (and eyes) when persuading the 90 degree elbow on to the TB. It definitely tests your patience.
 

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yeah, like I said in the how-to's; it is possible to install alone like I did but it would be much easier to have help

just don't forget to warm the heck out of that bend with hairdryer, best advice I received and passed along to others
 

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I used a heat gun to heat the elbow. It got nice and hot and flexible. Problem was it was almost burning my hands when I was installing it.
 

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aluminium tube?

I have a quick question about the aluminium. I know the outside diameter should be 3", what about the inside diameter? AKA, how thick should the wall of the tube be?:confused: I just want to make sure i get the right parts.

Thanks all.
 

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I used t-6061 aluminum .065" wall, it's plenty thick for strength and not thick enough to restrict the opening in any way

just be sure to smooth the cut edges so you get a nice smooth transition and prevent cut fingers during assembly/install
 

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The wall of your aluminum pipe you should be 0.065" thick. You can do the math on the ID.
 

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Thanks Both of you.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
When is 3/4" not 3/4"?

I just thought I would mention something that RickW and I have been PM'ing about. The 3/4" hose fitting will not screw into the 3/4" hole in the Nitrile rubber hump connector. Why? Because 3/4" is the inside dia. of the fitting, while 3/4" is the actual size of the hole. Two solutions: a smaller fitting ( I think I used 5/8" ) or ream the hole in the nitrile a little bigger.

Joekd - Did you run into this problem? What did you do?
 

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When I said a little, I really meant it. I used my Dremel to more or less clean up the 3/4" hole after using a hole saw to cut it. It's a tight fit and you literally have to screw it in (no wise cracks :biggrin: ). At least there is no worries about it slipping out.
 
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