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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had those problems big time. To the point where it was undrivable. It was my mom’s car & after she passed away in ‘17 & I drove it a year & a half. She bought it new & always complained about shifting problems etc & under warranty all the dealership ever did was throw parts at it & reflash the TCM. It’s been dead in the water now for 2 years because I didn’t have time to fool with it. I was preparing to replace the valve pack etc & started studying up on it by reading what people said in the various forums. What I got out of it was that no matter what was replaced the fix was always short term so I started looking at wiring. Had no problem with wiring near the tie rod ends like some suggests & no problems in the wiring harness itself that goes from one side to the other under the radiator support.
I spent 2 days removing all the tape & flexible conduit going thru it ALL pretty much one by one. What I found was MUCH EASIER & SIMPLER & it blew my mind to find it.
How the hell could Chrysler not have known this was going to cause problems?
ALL of the ground terminations (5)
on the chassis are bolted straight on to
PAINTED PARTS.
You absolutely CANNOT get a good ground without being on bare metal, period. ESPECIALLY when it comes to 12VDC.
The computers use 5V & they’re very sensitive to fluctuations hence all kinds of weird problems result. So what I did was double up on both the + & - cables from the battery because I think they were too small to begin with in the REAL WORLD.
Then I took the grounds loose
at these 5 chassis locations:
1) Main ground below battery tray on top of LH front side memeber.
2) A ground termination in front of that on the inside of the LH front side member
3) A ground termination just like above on the inside of the RH front side member.
4) A ground termination on bottom of RH front side member behind passenger side front wheel.
5) A ground termination on top of the RH front side member near the one mentioned above.

I reterminated all of them after removing the paint, cleaning off the ring terminals & bolts etc. So in essence I made damn sure I had excellent connections that weren’t going to fail then I painted over them with some bonding primer.

While I was at it I added extra grounding to/ from engine block with the 3 grounds that were already there. Once all of that was done & I put it all back together it has NEVER ran like it’s running now. NEVER. It’s like a totally different car. No more limp mode, no more loss of reverse, no more clunking when slowing down & no more clunking taking off.
It has been consistent to the point that I now trust that that was absolutely the root cause to ALL of it.
This morning I went & got insurance & went down to the DMV & got it registered again even tho I’ve got plenty of other vehicles to drive.

Ok, so now the dying/ no start issue I had after test driving HARD twice.

After the above repairs I took it out & drove it like it was stolen. Sudden stops, abrupt take offs, mashing it to the floor at every opportunity & took it out to the backroads driving like a mad man TRYING to make it screw up. Both times after about 20 to 30 minutes of that the car died when I came to an abrupt stop & would not restart. No codes & you could clearly hear the fuel pump doing its thing like normal. Wasn’t long after that I ran across a comment in a forum & a guy told another that thought his fuel pump was going bad to check his gas cap first & that made me think, “You know? I drove it SO hard that it acted like the gas couldn’t keep up with the demand?” So I checked MY gas cap.
TOTALLY CLOGGED. Can’t blow thru it nor suck thru it. Air HAS to be able to get in there or it will vapor lock which is what I have concluded because it makes sense. My fuel filter is new & I believe the fuel pump is just fine. So that’s what I have to say about it:)
 

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Sounds like you did some admirable detective and correction work on the grounds.

Regarding the gas cap, I'm pretty sure that the gas cap "seals" the system for environmental (vapor emissions) reasons. but also helps fuel not degrade from exchange of air and moisture in and out of the fuel tank during normal ambient temperature changes (such as typical day-time warmups and night-time cool downs as well as other general day to day temperature changes). The evaporative emissions system equalizes system pressure when the vehicle is running in a way that prevents the vapors from escaping.

I don't claim to have perfect understanding of the subject, but not sure you have arrived at an answer for the cut off/no start.

Perhaps it is a fuel pump issue, but I'm thinking cam position and/or crank position sensor intermittent (temperature-related?) failures. The sensor failures often occur without throwing any codes, as the PCM has to see a certain number if misses before it sets the codes, and the engine cut off typically happens before that code threshold is met.

Recommend not going with aftermarket sensors - get them from Chrysler dealer. (NGK/NTK aftermarket would be OK if dealer availability is a problem.) Short of proof or strong evidence of another cause, if it was me, I'd replace both cam and crank position sensors - relatively easy and low cost compared to new fuel pump, and good chance that that is the problem. No promises! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like you did some admirable detective and correction work on the grounds.

Regarding the gas cap, I'm pretty sure that the gas cap "seals" the system for environmental (vapor emissions) reasons. but also helps fuel not degrade from exchange of air and moisture in and out of the fuel tank during normal ambient temperature changes (such as typical day-time warmups and night-time cool downs as well as other general day to day temperature changes). The evaporative emissions system equalizes system pressure when the vehicle is running in a way that prevents the vapors from escaping.

I don't claim to have perfect understanding of the subject, but not sure you have arrived at an answer for the cut off/no start.

Perhaps it is a fuel pump issue, but I'm thinking cam position and/or crank position sensor intermittent (temperature-related?) failures. The sensor failures often occur without throwing any codes, as the PCM has to see a certain number if misses before it sets the codes, and the engine cut off typically happens before that code threshold is met.

Recommend not going with aftermarket sensors - get them from Chrysler dealer. (NGK/NTK aftermarket would be OK if dealer availability is a problem.) Short of proof or strong evidence of another cause, if it was me, I'd replace both cam and crank position sensors - relatively easy and low cost compared to new fuel pump, and good chance that that is the problem. No promises! :)
Thanks for your reply & I totally agree with you.
In fact Sunday as I sat & waited for it to start back up, I went ahead & ordered both sensors from Rock Auto. I took a chance with those particular sensors because from what I’ve read they’re the next best thing to OEM. I don't want to start sinking a whole lot of money into it especially if it doesn’t fix the problem. It hasn’t skipped a beat with the replacement gas cap I happened to have on hand but I admit that I’m a little skeptical about it since fuel pump failures seem pretty common with this car & after changing the fuel filter & cutting it half in two I wouldn’t be surprised if the sock in the tank is pretty clogged too & the FP is getting weak & its days are numbered. I’m prepared to have to drop the tank & replace it. Besides, I don’t like that the low fuel light & gauge have a mind of their own when it gets to 3/4 of a tank. At the moment the only thing that doesn’t work is the air conditioner. A couple of years ago right before the transmission went to limp mode semi permanently along with no reverse the A/C compressor locked up solid & destroyed the belt. The clutch pulls in about halfway but not enough for it to rotate freely. So I’ll put a few more hundred in it to get that going again but not much more. When I went thru the wiring the rubber flaps between the front wheels & the engine on both sides that also protect the front end linkage pretty much fell apart & I’d like to replace them but I don’t know what they’re called & can’t seem to find any. Any suggestions?
I could probably make some out of some thick rubber but I’d rather not.
On the A/C, I plan to replace the compressor, condenser (since it’s probably full of metal shavings, along with the dryer. Am I leaving anything out?
Any advice you could give me on that as well would be very much appreciated:)
 

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Rubber flaps: Tie rod splash shield?

(item 27)
Organism Font Auto part Circle Drawing


Rectangle Font Parallel Circle Number



On the a.c., you've got the main items for a locked up compressor (that probably shed metal debris): Compressor, condenser, and drier

Consider a flush kit to flush the lines and the rest of the system.

I assume you know you've got to replenish the oil (PAG - probably no. 46). Consider adding UV dye to make finding any leaks that may crop up in the future. A proper flush also removes oil from the lines and other components so you are starting with totally empty system before adding correct volume of new oil. Blow the flushed system dry of any flushing fluid and oil with clean (filtered) and dry compressed air or nitrogen. You might already know how to do and have the equipment for all of that - or you'll take it to a competent shop to flush, add oil (and dye?), pull vacuum, and recharge the system after you replace the parts. I'd have them confirm that they understand what you want as far as oil and dye before turning them loose on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks like I need the one you circled AND item #5 for both the LH & the RH side.
BTW, what causes the front end to make popping sounds especially when you make sharp turns?
I retightened some nuts & bolts in a few places which did help but it’s not completely gone.
One more thing I wanted to mention.
I really appreciate your expert advice. I can tell you know your stuff. I’m just a hacker of all trades & not afraid to fix whatever it is that needs fixing.
I’m an electrician by trade & worked (now retired) at Toyota in Georgetown, Ky. in maintenance in the bodyshop for 28yrs so I’ve had to do a little bit of everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rubber flaps: Tie rod splash shield?

(item 27)
View attachment 41907

View attachment 41908


On the a.c., you've got the main items for a locked up compressor (that probably shed metal debris): Compressor, condenser, and drier

Consider a flush kit to flush the lines and the rest of the system.

I assume you know you've got to replenish the oil (PAG - probably no. 46). Consider adding UV dye to make finding any leaks that may crop up in the future. A proper flush also removes oil from the lines and other components so you are starting with totally empty system before adding correct volume of new oil. Blow the flushed system dry of any flushing fluid and oil with clean (filtered) and dry compressed air or nitrogen. You might already know how to do and have the equipment for all of that - or you'll take it to a competent shop to flush, add oil (and dye?), pull vacuum, and recharge the system after you replace the parts. I'd have them confirm that they understand what you want as far as oil and dye before turning them loose on it.
Sounds like you did some admirable detective and correction work on the grounds.

Regarding the gas cap, I'm pretty sure that the gas cap "seals" the system for environmental (vapor emissions) reasons. but also helps fuel not degrade from exchange of air and moisture in and out of the fuel tank during normal ambient temperature changes (such as typical day-time warmups and night-time cool downs as well as other general day to day temperature changes). The evaporative emissions system equalizes system pressure when the vehicle is running in a way that prevents the vapors from escaping.

I don't claim to have perfect understanding of the subject, but not sure you have arrived at an answer for the cut off/no start.

Perhaps it is a fuel pump issue, but I'm thinking cam position and/or crank position sensor intermittent (temperature-related?) failures. The sensor failures often occur without throwing any codes, as the PCM has to see a certain number if misses before it sets the codes, and the engine cut off typically happens before that code threshold is met.

Recommend not going with aftermarket sensors - get them from Chrysler dealer. (NGK/NTK aftermarket would be OK if dealer availability is a problem.) Short of proof or strong evidence of another cause, if it was me, I'd replace both cam and crank position sensors - relatively easy and low cost compared to new fuel pump, and good chance that that is the problem. No promises! :)
Just got back from another proving ground test for the dying problem she did it again. After cooing down I started her up & brought her home. Soon as I got out the mailman came & delivered my sensors so I’m going to replace the crank sensor first & test her out again later on;)
 

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You're welcome.

Hope the sensor replacement proves to be the fix.

If the popping you hear is while the car is moving during a turn, it's probably a bad outer CV joint. Check the joint boots for splits - usually that (and loss of grease) is what leads to the failure. Replace the half shaft (axle) that is bad.

(Generally, bad inner joint causes vibration during acceleration or deceleration. Popping while turning is bad outer joint.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I guess it could still be the CV joints but the boots on both sides look great & there’s no grease anywhere. In fact, none of the bushings look worn out & the whole front suspension looks good. It only had 77k on it in ‘17 when I acquired it & it stayed in the garage the whole time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Rubber flaps: Tie rod splash shield?

(item 27)
View attachment 41907

View attachment 41908


On the a.c., you've got the main items for a locked up compressor (that probably shed metal debris): Compressor, condenser, and drier

Consider a flush kit to flush the lines and the rest of the system.

I assume you know you've got to replenish the oil (PAG - probably no. 46). Consider adding UV dye to make finding any leaks that may crop up in the future. A proper flush also removes oil from the lines and other components so you are starting with totally empty system before adding correct volume of new oil. Blow the flushed system dry of any flushing fluid and oil with clean (filtered) and dry compressed air or nitrogen. You might already know how to do and have the equipment for all of that - or you'll take it to a competent shop to flush, add oil (and dye?), pull vacuum, and recharge the system after you replace the parts. I'd have them confirm that they understand what you want as far as oil and dye before turning them loose on it.
Per the illustration, what is item #5 & the spec number?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Per the illustration, what is item #5 & the spec number?
Never mind, I found them. 04756550 & 04756551 Front Rail Splash Guards but they’re discontinued everywhere I’ve looked so it’s either find them at a junk yard, make some or forget about them. Wth do bodyshops do if they fix a wreck & nobody makes the parts?
 

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"Wth do bodyshops do if they fix a wreck & nobody makes the parts?"

Same thing you're doing. 🤷‍♂️ :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just FYI, you do not have to drop the tank on a 1G for fuel pump. Rear trunk forward cover plate with 4 10mm nuts.
Yes & that’s outstanding! I took the cover off last night to check it out. In the next couple days I’m going to pull it out & clean it up real good & see if I can make the low fuel lamp & gauge work the way they’re supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Any secrets to getting the bolt out of the HVAC blower fan cover that’s up against the firewall? The bolt’s loose as loose can be & I still can’t seem to get the damn thing loose enough to get the cover off. My patience is gone & I’m about to rip this sob off of here
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Any secrets to getting the bolt out of the HVAC blower fan cover that’s up against the firewall? The bolt’s loose as loose can be & I still can’t seem to get the damn thing loose enough to get the cover off. My patience is gone & I’m about to rip this sob off of here
Never mind. I finally got it. What a pita.
Anyway, motor barely turns. Luckily the speed control module seems ok. Don’t know what the resistance values are supposed to be but from what I can tell maybe a 1ohm, a 2ohm & a 3 ohm resistor?
 
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