DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
.
Joined
·
9,861 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I noticed today that my passenger front tire (drive wheel) has ALOT of wear (like balding). The rest of the tires have hardly any.

Should I rotate the wheels myself? Or get it professionally done and the wheels balanced and all that?

I think autozone will do it for free, but they are a far drive away.


I bought the tires when I bought the car, which is when I joined the site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
do it yourself i did it is not hard at all, but then you may need an alignment, so i took it to belle tire bought 4 new tires and an alignment about 5 days after i rotated them, i only got new tires because they were worse than i thought from neglecting it for so long
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
>passenger front tire (drive wheel) has ALOT of wear (like balding). The rest of the tires have hardly any.

I'd say you definitely need an alignment.
I personally rotate all 5 tires every 12 000 miles, it keeps them all wearing the same amount, then I'll repace all 5 when they're done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
I second Wire2, I rotate mine every 5K.

However the last tires I bought where directional so now I only can rotate front to back instead of the cross method.
See any drivers manual on how to do it.

If your interested in check your alignment yourself, check out my post on the How-to's for 1st gens that is in the works.

DR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
>...you rotate the spare tire with the regular tires? ... why?

Several reasons, assuming you have a full size spare on a matching wheel;
Logically, if 4 tires last for 80,000 miles, 5 will go 100K, as each tire "rests" in the trunk 20% of the time.
If you don't rotate the spare, you'll end up trading/selling the car with a new spare for no monetary return.
If the spare never leaves the trunk, you could find it flat when you actually need it.
It gives you a look in the trunk wheel well for possible water accumulation.
It's virtually the same amount of work to change 5 as 4, you still re & re 4 sets of bolts.
(The first 2 are possibly my Dutch heritage.
BTW, the word is "Frugal", not "cheap" :0)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Tire rotation is necessary to get the most even wear out of your tires. If any of your tires are significantly different than the others with respect to wear, you have an alignment issue or improper tire inflation (always pursue tire inflation press first!) Some tires are "directional" and should only be installed so they rotate in one direction - usually higher performance tires fall into this category so using the 5-tire rotation method may not be a good idea...check the tire sidewall for any directional arrows showing which side of the car the tire should be mounted. If you have directional tires, they should not be rotated - just swap the front/back tires on the same side.

There's lots of ways to be "frugal"...one way is to buy 3 tires and use the spare as the fourth (assuming it's the same as the 3 new ones and in good shape) when it's time to buy new tires. Then pick the best one of the 4 old ones and throw it into the trunk as your spare. This method works best if you plan on selling your car before the next tire change.

As far as professionally done I've got lots of horror stories from so-called "professionals" who've over torqued lug nuts, scratched or scarred up wheels, etc. It's not that difficult...get some never-seeze and lubricate your studs before putting lug nuts back on. If you don't notice any wheel shake you should not have to worry about balancing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
>... get some never-seeze and lubricate your studs ...

Now there's a controversial statement!
There's 2 very distinct camps on that. One says NEVER put any kind of lubricant on wheel studs. The rationale is; by reducing friction, lube on the threads allows the same torque to turn a nut noticeably farther, resulting in a substantial increase in bolt tension. That makes the bolts prone to breakage during adverse road conditions.
The other side says go ahead and grease them, it doesn't make any difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
wire2 said:
>... get some never-seeze and lubricate your studs ...

The rationale is; by reducing friction, lube on the threads allows the same torque to turn a nut noticeably farther, resulting in a substantial increase in bolt tension. That makes the bolts prone to breakage during adverse road conditions.
'Spose that's a possibility but I've had many cases where I've busted my balls getting lug nuts off that some gorilla put on and have never had any problems as a result of using lubricant on the studs. Maybe I'm just lucky but it's been 27 years of owning/driving cars and trucks of all sorts and it's always worked for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
You should never change sides with a radial tire.

It is not just a directional thing. Radial belting tends to "lay" differently after the tire has been used. Switching them to the other side of the car makes them more prone to belt seperation.

Leave the spare in the trunk until you need it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Sturge said:


'Spose that's a possibility but I've had many cases where I've busted my balls getting lug nuts off that some gorilla put on and have never had any problems as a result of using lubricant on the studs. Maybe I'm just lucky but it's been 27 years of owning/driving cars and trucks of all sorts and it's always worked for me.
I agree and disagree. I don't think it's the lubricant. I think it's just the gorilla with an air wrench set on 100ft/lbs. I've never used any lube or anti-seize and my lugs have always come off with ease (I've broken one in 20 years, but someone else put it on). I worked in a tire shop for awhile and I noticed that guys would turn up the torque to get tough nuts off, then forget to turn it back down.

As for as the tension issue, Torque is Torque. The bolt tension is directly proportional to the torque of the nut so regardless of what you put on the bolt, if you torque the nut to X ft/lbs then the Bolt tension will be the same. The lube just helps overcome imperfections in the stud and nut so the nut goes on easier and probably further. The hazard is that the "Lube" could evaporate (WD-40) or just seep out over time which means it is unreliable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Age has alot to do with it too. Old stuff oxidizes and locks in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
I like wire2's idea of using the spare in the rotation. Unfortunately for me my spare is a steel rim, only have 4 aluminums.
I do change direction of radials. Rears to front, same side and front to rear, opposite side.
I never put lube on the studs but some rims need something like antiseize to keep the centering hub from freezing up to the rim.
Torque the nuts to 90 ft/lbs and you will never have problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
i would rotate mine, but i cant get the damn lug nuts off, i twisted my lug wrench (4 way) trying to get them off, so..im going to have to get those air wrenched or something, but not before
wd-40, most improtant things to have in your car other than oil and gas are Silicone, WD-40, and a spare key
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
Your front tires bear more weight, withstand greater frictional forces during cornering, and the front right tire also pushes the car. That's considerably more work then the rear tires have to do, free-wheeling with minimal weight. You should rotate the tires every 6k miles or so and it is normal for the front tires to wear much more quickly.

Also note that If your front end is badly out of alignment, you can destroy a front set of tires in less the 1k miles. Front wheel drive cars don't usually get knocked out of alignment that easy though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Tire rotation pattern. When radial tires first came out, they recommended not switching sides. that has all changed. see your owners manual Where you find:

(on a front wheel drive)
Move the fronts straight back
Criss-cross the rears as you move them to the front.

RWD is just the opposite: rears go sraight to the front, X the fronts as you move them back.

The quick trick to remember is always move the driven tires straight back or forward. It gives the belts a chance to relax after the stress of driving the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Tempest said:
i would rotate mine, but i cant get the damn lug nuts off, i twisted my lug wrench (4 way) trying to get them off, so..im going to have to get those air wrenched or something, but not before
wd-40, most improtant things to have in your car other than oil and gas are Silicone, WD-40, and a spare key
If that doesn't work, get a breaker bar or a heavy duty lug wrench and you should be able to snap the stud off. They will bang out with a hammer, but set the rotor on some wood so you don't beat the backside of it up.

Putting new studs in is easy. Put the rotor on the rim, slide the new stud through the back, then tighten it down to the proper torque.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top