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You might also need to change BCM's. You need the premium BCM for the cluster to work properly. Does your car have a 2 plug *basic* or a 3 plug *premium* pcm?

If you have factory ATC or OTIS you will have a premium BCM.

Check the TCM plug itself, not the TCM, Some cars had the wires for autostick in the TCM Plug but lacked the wires in the cabin.


Lmao ok not quite up on the codes for some parts yet. I know my PCM is under the Air box and has a 2 plug on it.. I know the TCM under the battery and will check it out tomorrow. But i don't know what ATC or OTIS is and a BCM? sorry new to the game here but i catch on quick..
 

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Dain bramaged
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BCM = Body Control Module. Located in the passenger side of the dash, between the glove box and the door.

OTIS = Outside Temperature Information System.. or something like that.

ATC = Automatic Temperature Control = Digitally controlled A/C / heater. It has a digital display with a bunch of buttons, The basic A/C control has 3 knobs.
 

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So you don't have ATC. *atc = digital, Basic = 3 knobs*

You'll likely have to change the BCM then. If you open the glovebox, pinch the sides and drop it down out of the slot, you should be able to see the plug side of the BCM with a flashlight. It will be real obvious if you have a 2 port or not.
 

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1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!
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Converting to ATC requires several goodies - and can be done. Check here for a start http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=32794. It can also be done with out re-wiring the whole dash - just have to be more careful with it and run more wires on your own. If you have access to a full donor car of the same year, you can just do the swap of the harness - but the problem comes in that you have to have the same year donor car.

You probably have the standard BCM. When you do get the premium BCM, perform the factory anti-theaft defeat right away. Here is one set of instructions http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=36926 - but an easier way to remove the BCM is to open the passenger door, pop off the side cover of the dash (like the fuse cover on the driver's side), remove the torx screw you will see through a hole (the only torx behind that pannel), and then with that popped off, you can reach up behind the dash, against the door hinge part of the body of the car, and wiggle the BCM around and get it to fall down where you can pull the plugs. The BCM is about the size of a small hardcover book.

Check this thread if you haven't already http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=32793 and http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=211036

When you install the premium BCM - do yourself a favor and do THIS http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=33199 before installing - it will save you from being stranded at an interstate gas station with your GF - just ask Mr. Harris!
 

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I just wanted to point out that even though my 97 didn't have the wires in the car for auto-stick, it still had them on the connector in the engine compartment. Make sure when you go read the how-to to catch what color they are and look at your existing harness, you can save yourself a lot of headaches by just splicing 2 wires rather than splicing the whole harness LOL

Also the BCM all in all isn't too bad of a replacement, just make sure to do what Cean said, I haven't went back out to the yard to check the car I got mine from, but then again, mine's parked while I'm fixing it, save for driving a total of 7 miles to a gas station and back if needed. Another thing, just make sure if you get the premium BCM that it's not from a LHS because they did not have auto-stick and weren't programed for it.... Concorde I do not know if that one will work, but Intrepid and Vision will work.

If you really need a picture of it I can show you what it looks like by going out to my daily driver and snapping a picture of my old one, but as to where it's located the best I could do is try to show you with the dash, the actual car is at my mom's house about 17 miles away, but a lot of the interior pieces are here in my room.
 

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just make sure if you get the premium BCM that it's not from a LHS because they did not have auto-stick and weren't programed for it.... Concorde I do not know if that one will work, but Intrepid and Vision will work.

Too funny just got back from the Yard and found a 94 LHS with everything i need Back Dash and door panels...>>>



and was going to take the BCM out but it was hot and been the for over 2 hours after taking the door panels and dash apart..>>



So i guess that i need to keep looking then... Thanks for the heads up...LOL.. Can i use a BCM out of a Gen 2 ? or has to be out of 96 intrepid..
 

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Too funny just got back from the Yard and found a 94 LHS with everything i need Back Dash and door panels...>>>



and was going to take the BCM out but it was hot and been the for over 2 hours after taking the door panels and dash apart..>>



So i guess that i need to keep looking then... Thanks for the heads up...LOL.. Can i use a BCM out of a Gen 2 ? or has to be out of 96 intrepid..
Well that is the BCM so you've definitely found it. It's not that the BCM won't work, it just won't have the A/S data on it, so pretty much it'll read on your gauge cluster that your shifter is in 3rd (on a non-A/S cluster that is)

As for a 2nd gen BCM, it won't work, it has to be a 1st gen, which are years 1993-1997

I still need to go pull the A/S gauge cluster, I just haven't had a chance to yet, although I've had A/S installed for a long while. I also just recently installed the premium BCM, haven't gotten the connector for all the extras for it yet though, all I can say is the door dings are more annoying now because it's about twice as fast as the ones from the basic BCM, at least the ones I have -.-

ALSO: What condition are the seats in? ESPECIALLY THE DRIVER'S SEAT? I need a driver's seat that's track works, and that isn't torn to Hell and back and those match the LHS seats in my Intrepid.... If you can pull them for a reasonable price you can make some money off them here, I got my full set for $50 which was a steal, and I'd pay $40 + S&H for the driver's seat if it works right and looks better than mine, send me a PM if you'd like.

My seats:

Tears in driver's seat

And my back seat
 

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The seats do look better then yours.. I think the seats will cost about $40 ish last week when i got the 01 Intrepid seat all seats last weeks where on sale $28 for the buckets (Fronts) and $15 each for the backs.. I'll pm u the real price..
 

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Mine were $20 for the rear bench and $30 for the full set up front.... I got a killing, and the driver's seat was the only one damaged, and please do send me a price plus shipping, I'd love a driver's seat that's actually functional LOL Just please test and make sure it moves back and forth correctly (there are wires and a connector under the seat pull as much of the wire from the floor as possible, snip it, and bring a 12 volt battery to hook it to with wire and use the controls on the side of the seat, as long as it moves back and forth I'll get it.... Mine didn't move unless you used the controls and pushed the actual seat)
 

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Mine were $20 for the rear bench and $30 for the full set up front.... I got a killing, and the driver's seat was the only one damaged, and please do send me a price plus shipping, I'd love a driver's seat that's actually functional LOL Just please test and make sure it moves back and forth correctly (there are wires and a connector under the seat pull as much of the wire from the floor as possible, snip it, and bring a 12 volt battery to hook it to with wire and use the controls on the side of the seat, as long as it moves back and forth I'll get it.... Mine didn't move unless you used the controls and pushed it)
Lol OK going there now will shot some pic's and you can see.... got the get my door panels before someone destroys them pull them off this morning...
 

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OK here are the pic's.. This seat does have a bad spot. so you may want to look for another one..Can you take the tracks off this seat with the motors or not Mybe easier to send it to you.. Let me know and I'll check this week and see if the motors work good in it ..






 

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Hmm it doesn't look near as plushy as mine, I'll look into how hard it would be to take just the tracks off of the seat because if the track works that's all I'll really need.
 

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The tracks and motors on these seats are a royal pain to swap. They don't just bolt on, they are actually structural to the seat. The whole seat has to come apart. I swapped the tracks on an r/t seat I bought that had broken tracks, It took me bout 30-45 minutes to get one seat apart.

If you do this, be careful the metal is very VERY sharp. I cut my hand pretty bad while doing this and didn't even notice it till the blood started getting everywhere.

BigBCC, check this out > http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=86447
 

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I have to agree with those who said to disable the factory alarm on the premium BCM I didn't do it right away and had to call to get someone to rescue me from the store. Worked fine until I locked the doors then not so much. As far as the LHS BCM not working with the A/S cluster my BCM came from a 97 LHS and it displays the correct A/S gear on my cluster. I don't know if I got lucky or what.

Bob
 

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The only incompatibility I had heard of with BCM's is with 93-95 ones. I run the factory premium BCM that my 95 came with and my autostick works fine, but other 1st gen guys have reported that they had problems with a pre-96 unit.

I've never heard anything about an LHS unit not working. Granted they were never offered with the autostick option, which is where I think this is coming from. If you do swap to the LHS interior you will have to modify the stock center console piece as it is unique to the layout for the LHS.
 

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From everything I've seen and understood, ANY premium BCM works - regardless of what it came from. My Premium came from an LHS as well, and works just fine.

The easiest way to do the BCM alarm disable is to go get a computer wiring bit - the two wire ones here:

and then using a hunk of wire about 6-9 inches long - plug wire and plug into the correct pin on the connector per the links above - and then hook the other end of the wire onto a ground screw - I used one of the dash screws on the door pillar that gets covered by the end cap.

Always fun to get a call from a fellow member after installing a BCM for him, 90 miles away, and having to explore a little town you don't know, trying to find wires at random stores, to repair this problem. Stumbled into a computer repair depot, little mom and pop shop - and they gave me one of those LED header plugs - worked PERFECT.
 

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I thought that as well, as I was told by the old'n DI.net resident experts, but Chewie and EagleESI have said that dave tried a pre 96 bcm in his car and the autostick cluster didn't work.

*shrug* just grab a 96-97 bcm and don't worry bout it.
 
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