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Discussion Starter #1
While investigating a loud squeaking noise, I discovered my right rear tire doesn't spin as freely as the left rear. It is definately harded to spin forward and almost impossible to spin backwards. ( yes the e-brake was off) there is actually a clunk as it stops turning backwards. Thinking of bleeding the caliper, but looking for any ideas.
04 SXT 3.5 HO 198k miles
 

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I would pull the rotor off and check the parking brake assy. The parking brake is intergral to the rotor itself, meaning the rotor serves 2 purposes one as the brake rotor for the rear brakes and as the parking brake drum for the parking brake. I would remove the caliper and see if it's still hard to rotate which you can do by tossing the wheel back on the studs no need to put the lugnuts on when you do it's just to turn the rotor if it's still hard to turn I'd suspect the parking brake assy if it's easy to turn maybe the brake caliper is sticking.
 

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Caliper stuck or parking brake, possible wheel hub.
Yeah - probably brake related, but put hub/bearing on the list of possibilities. If hub hard to turn with rotor totally off, it's the bearing.
 

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Yeah - probably brake related, but put hub/bearing on the list of possibilities. If hub hard to turn with caliper totally off, it's the bearing.
Did you mean with the "Rotor" totally off? Even with the caliper off StrmVT is correct about the park brake.
 

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Did you mean with the "Rotor" totally off? Even with the caliper off StrmVT is correct about the park brake.
Only if the wheel is still hard to turn after he tests it with the caliper off.

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Did you mean with the "Rotor" totally off? Even with the caliper off StrmVT is correct about the park brake.
Oops - sure did. I was thinking rotor, but typed caliper. Thanks Dave. Corrected my post.
 

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I had a similar problem that took me a long time to diagnose and it was the metal tubing directly behind the hub. No problem now.
 

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...it was the metal tubing directly behind the hub...
Can you explain a little about what it was and how you fixed it.
 

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The part is called the flexible hydraulic hose and it connects the rigid tubing to the wheel hub. Easy to change and cost $12-15. But be careful when disconnecting it from the rigid tubing, it can seize and cause damage to the tubing.
 

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OK - thanks for the explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, Took me a while to get to it. But i have the tire off, the caliper off and the rotor and hub spin pretty easily. It looks like the inner pad is rubbing and wearing at an angle.(front edge i think) Will bleeding it help the issue or should i be changing the caliper?
 

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Ok, Took me a while to get to it. But i have the tire off, the caliper off and the rotor and hub spin pretty easily. It looks like the inner pad is rubbing and wearing at an angle.(front edge i think) Will bleeding it help the issue or should i be changing the caliper?
Do the slides, (The part that the bolts pass through), seem to move easily?

Also, since you are this far, why not pull the rotor and be sure the park brake assembly is OK?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The front slide was stuck (same end as the extra wear on the pad) Got it to move and worked it back and forth a dozen or so times. Not sure why it was bound up, maybe just some dirt under the boot? Re-assembled, test drove and then jacked the car back up and the wheel spins freely now. Not sure if its a long term fix, but for now it seems to be.
 

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There are lubricants you can use on the slides. Any parts store should have it.

Also check the boot for holes / water ingestion.
 

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Sounds like the guide pins/bolt were seized. I would check the boots for tears/cracks/placement and replace accordingly. If the bolt or guide pins are rusted then replace them. If it was just gummed up clean them off the best you can and grease them. Just seems like they were never re greased and it dried out. If the brake pad was worn on an angle i would replace that as well. keeping it on can cause uneven braking depending on how badly it was worn.

Also i would go around the car and do them all now before it happens to another one.
 

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I went through this with both rear wheels. I started to notice that hot brake smell and a slightly sluggish feel while accelerating a few years ago and would check the wheels and they would be hot. Didn't happen all the time though. Sometimes it was one wheel, sometimes it was the other, sometimes neither for days on end. I changed the pads, lubed everything, made sure everything was free but to no avail. It wore the pads down to the nub within a year. I decided the calipers were sticking so I set about resolving it. I had it in my mind I would need new calipers but decided to try to free up the original ones first.

What I did was remove the dust seal from the piston, spray some PB Blaster in around the piston and extend the piston part way out of the caliper very slowly, one pedal pump at a time. You have to be careful, if you pop the piston all the way out it's screwed. I sprayed more PB blaster, wiped the piston, sprayed more and pushed the piston back in with a C clamp. I cycled it in and out several times, spraying PB Blaster and wiping off the dingy crud each time until it was clean and moved freely. I applied a thin film of grease on the piston with it extended one last time, put the dust seal back on, put new pads and rotors on and did the same with the other side. This was back in the spring. Had new tires put on a few weeks ago and checked the rear brakes. No sign of sticking or dragging. I have done this with sticky brake calipers on many vehicles with good results.

Or you can put new calipers on, bleed, and drive. Whatever you do, do both sides. If one side is bad, it isn't long before the other side goes.
 

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The only thing to be careful of doing that is that the grease you use can eat the seals in the brake system... be sure for safety to always use a brake rubber compatible lubricant, such as a silicone based lubricant...

Also, consider that the calipers in use will get VERY hot - so the grease needs to be high temp as well.
 

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You can also get a caliper rebuild kit that includes new piston ring and dust boot for under $5 each. A few months ago, when I determined that the front calipers were sticking on one of my Concordes, I decided to replace the calipers. Not too many years ago I would have done the rebuild. I took the easy way out - cost was about $35-40 per caliper at NAPA.
 
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