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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 94 LHS that seems to be pretty loaded however the prevoius owner did not have the remotes for the keyless entry and was unsure if it ever had the keyless entry.

How can I tell if my car actually has the keyless entry setup electronics? If it has the electnroics, is it easy to buy a remote at the dealer and program it for use with my car?

If my car doe3sn't have one, should I just buy an aftermarket setup for it?

How can I tell if the car has the factory anti-theft alarm and if I have it, how does it work?
 

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The way to tell if a car has the alarm or not is to look for the unit with a LED (red lens) and a sunsensor (yellow dot) located in the top center dash directly in front of the center speaker. the red led is the alarm and the yellow dot isnt for the alarm its for the atc.

to tell if it has keyless entry remove the plastice piece on the dash closet to the winshield. to remove pry up on it at the two end furthest from the winshield then pull towards the inside of the car. If it has a keyless entry the unit will be all the way to the passengers side its a black square box.

and you can pick up remotes on ebay for 10-20 dollars. to program them ground out pin 4 on the traction controll switch wire harness. any other question feel free to pm me

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well hot damn, it looks like my car does have the remote keyless receiver assy. (At least thats what the black box on the right hand side is called.).

Now to get a keyfob. I don't have the alarm though, but you can't always have everything.. :)

Thanks for the info. When i get my key fob, I will ask for more detailed info on how to program it.

Thanks
 

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My 97 Dakota has an alarm, but it doesnt have the little red LED light on it. It does have a "SECURITY" idiot light. It lights up when ever I lock the truck by the key fob. What's funny though is that the only way it'll go off is if I lock it by the fob, but unlock it with my key. It won't go off by lifting up the handle; like other alarms.
 

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That's the most common way of triggering a factory alarm. The only cars that may trigger the alarm by simply lifting the door handle are those that illuminate the dome light when the door handle is raised rather than relying on a switch in the latch or door jamb...
 

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dbaudiopro said:
That's the most common way of triggering a factory alarm. The only cars that may trigger the alarm by simply lifting the door handle are those that illuminate the dome light when the door handle is raised rather than relying on a switch in the latch or door jamb...
Do you think the door handle switch is better than the latch switch and would there be any benifit to installing a handle switch if you already have a latch switch?
 

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There are pros and cons to it. Both my old car and my mom's car had the door handle switches. She wasn't very good about remembering when the alarm was armed and when it wasn't (don't know how she could miss the 3 LEDs I installed but anyway). Any time she ran out to grab something from the car she'd lift the door handle and the alarm would go off. So then she'd run around looking for the remote so the neighbors didn't kill us. After I rewired the system so it wouldn't trigger off the door handles she was then safe lifting the door handles. If the doors were locked she'd know it was armed, hunt down the remote and then get inside (much quieter neighborhood). Another draw back is if you have kids around it's an easy way for them to cause false alarms all the time aggrivating you as well as those around you.

What I like about it is that a theif doesn't have to do damage to the car to set off the alarm (like brake the window, or actually gain entry). This saved my car as well as I believe many others when some guy was walking through our church parking lot several years ago lifting door handles to see who's car was unlocked. As soon as he lifted mine the alarm triggered and he ran (several of us saw it from an upstairs window).

So it's really a 50/50. What ever you think is going to work best in your situation or what ever you think you're willing to put up with... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, hopefully I am going to get a fob at the junkyard. They have a box full of them and tell me that they are 10 bux each. Anyway I want to program it while at the junkyard to make sure I got one that works with it, now you said to ground out pin 4 on the traction control harness, which pin is that going to be? Does it have numbers on it so I can tell which one would be pin 4?
'
And once I ground it out, the locks will cycle, then I hit the button and then they should cycle again, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In reference to my last message about the traction control harness, bascially what I am asking, is it failsafe that I will be able to tell which pin is pin 4?
 

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i wasnt sure so i went out to my car and pulled the trim off to find out that the harness has the numbers right on it. to remove the trim the trac control buttons just pull on it its held in with clips.

Paul
 

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usonofabetch said:
my car doesn't have traction control, how would i program it?
There is no way to program it. You need all sorts of parts for it. Like the ABS module with traction, sensors, and such.
 

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usonofabetch said:
my car doesn't have traction control, how would i program it?
assuming you mean how to program RKE...

Even if you don't have traction control, the harness is still there. Just pull the trim piece off where the trac control switch would be just to the right of the steering wheel.

I believe that in later model 1st gens they moved it to the diagnostic connector, but i'm thinking that was 96+97 only
 
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