DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I've done it at least a half dozen times. One time, I broke one of the jaws of my puller, trying to remove a particularly tight dampener/pulley. That time I was able to force the belt around it, but I don't like doing that. I've since bought a puller kit, that besides the puller, has a "ring-looking" wrench, too, which holds the crank pulley from turning while wrenching on the puller. I highly recommend that kit, I think it was less than $50. Make sure you start removing the belt with all(3) the dots lined up. You start at the crank toothed pulley and wrap the new belt on in a CCW direction. You need to keep the belt slack free as you proceed around all the pulleys. It can help if you have two extra hands, but it is not absolutely necessary. I have used the Dayco "kit" the last few times, and I highly recommend it, too. It comes with the belt, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, and tensioner pulley/bearing assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
the dayco kit I used was around $150 online, IIRC.
I have no idea what the point is behind the suggestion to back off a tooth on the cam sprocket. If your engine was running ok before you changed the belt and the dots all lined up, then I would not try to change the cam timing.
The first time I did it, I had some plastic shims which I shoved in between the belt and the timing housing to hold the belt tight against the teeth while I stretched/ routed the belt over the next pulley.
After you've pulled the pin on the hydraulic tensioner, and screwed the tensioner all the way in, I rotate the engine thru a couple of revolutions to make sure all the dots still are lined up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I don't KNOW about 1st gen, but I don't recall 2nd Gen screws being that long. I'll check tomorrow to make sure.
the pulley holder I have is a circular ring with three legs that but up against the pulley's spokes, and has a 1/2" drive square hole punched in it for your 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar. If you Google 3.5L dampener/ pulley holder and look at the images, you'll probably spot it. IIRC, the puller and holder set also fits some GM apps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I've done a 94LHS 2X, 95LHS, , 02 Treps 4X. I've had it both ways. Some fired right off, but I do remember that one of the last two I did on 02 Treps, I had to crank on it and hold my foot to the floor to get it to catch, and then feather it for a minute or so before it would idle on its own. I did disconnect the battery on both, but only one had trouble firing off. Can't explain why the diff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
boy, if you're going to replace the lower radiator hose, you might as well replace the thermostat, too. I had one spontaneously stick closed on me, and I think it contributed to further engine damage later. It's a real b!tch to replace, and I wouldn't blame you if you didn't, because I know you have to draw the line somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
you can tell if you have burped the air-lock out of the coolant system by monitoring the temp gauge, and feeling for heat coming out of the defrosterash vents. If you are not getting heat out of the dash vents, you have not fully purged the air out. I have a steep driveway, which I've found works great for burping the air out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I've used some plastic (house)door shims, which I break off at the correct thickness to jam in there between the belt on the left cam sprocket and the timing rear cover casting to hold the belt/cam sprocket/crank sprocket in proper position so you can free up both hands to further route the belt around the w. pump & rt cam sprocket. I've also used a little midget c-clamp to help hold the sprocket/belt/cover "sandwich" tight.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top