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yippee ki yay
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Discussion Starter #1
I figured I'ld make a thread on the process and pictures of the different stages of my rebuild of a 3.5 motor I will drop in my car after I'm done.

Install Thread

Motor was thought to have a blown head gasket....after break down of the motor....no signs of a possible blown head gasket.


Looking at one of the heads before removal


Ready to remove the heads


Look at that build up and crap


view of the pistions after head removal



After











 

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yippee ki yay
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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like shes got quite a few miles on her. Any special plans for it?
Yeah you right....I picked up as a core motor from the bone yard I get a lot parts from....I picked it up for about $100.00. I'll know more probable tomorrow when I pull the pistons and look over the the over all condition of all the parts. So far most everything looks to be savable. The heads look to be in good condition valves are good, seals need replacing. I'm thinking I'm going the route of a standard rebuild....I'm still playing with the idea of a 4.0 stroker motor.....I still have to look into the cost of some oversized pistions for it.
 

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if you're looking into a stroker motor (drool....) stock pistons are fine, the 3.5 and 4.0 both use a 96mm bore, 3.5 has a 81mm stroke, 4.0 has a 91mm stroke. so, by going with a stroker, you'll pick up tons of torque. about 30 cubic inches just in the stroke of the motor :D as far as i can tell with my research, you just have to have the mains on the crank machined down to accept the smaller bearings from the 3.5, if you're worried about longevity with the larger crank you could look into using roller bearings... would be a nice touch.

the only 4 liter crank ive been able to find is $750... would love to see the price down around 250
 

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if you're looking into a stroker motor (drool....) stock pistons are fine, the 3.5 and 4.0 both use a 96mm bore, 3.5 has a 81mm stroke, 4.0 has a 91mm stroke. so, by going with a stroker, you'll pick up tons of torque. about 30 cubic inches just in the stroke of the motor :D as far as i can tell with my research, you just have to have the mains on the crank machined down to accept the smaller bearings from the 3.5, if you're worried about longevity with the larger crank you could look into using roller bearings... would be a nice touch.

the only 4 liter crank ive been able to find is $750... would love to see the price down around 250
Well I can help you with that, you must be looking at the wrong part number or source. I've been doing my homework for the 4.0 stroked 3.5 build for quite some time now and I have everything saved in notes. I know everything you've posted, and the part number/source for the crank is the easy part.

2007 Nitro crankshaft for 4.0L PN - 4892108AA

Go to mopardiscountparts.com and search the part number. The current cost at the time of this post is $341.70 (plus shipping of course). Thats not so bad for a crankshaft.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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Yeah you right....I picked up as a core motor from the bone yard I get a lot parts from....I picked it up for about $100.00. I'll know more probable tomorrow when I pull the pistons and look over the the over all condition of all the parts. So far most everything looks to be savable. The heads look to be in good condition valves are good, seals need replacing. I'm thinking I'm going the route of a standard rebuild....I'm still playing with the idea of a 4.0 stroker motor.....I still have to look into the cost of some oversized pistions for it.
Pistons can be a *****...at least they were when I rebuilt my 3.2...had to order them from chrysler at $125 each, with connecting rods...nothing in the aftermarket available at that time...and mine were way out of spec, over 200K on my engine when it was rebuilt...hopefully the aftermarket is a bit more friendly now...
 

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Pistons can be a *****...at least they were when I rebuilt my 3.2...had to order them from chrysler at $125 each, with connecting rods...nothing in the aftermarket available at that time...and mine were way out of spec, over 200K on my engine when it was rebuilt...hopefully the aftermarket is a bit more friendly now...
3.2 is the **** size out for pistons. Different bore than all the other engines and not in current use by chrysler.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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3.2 is the **** size out for pistons. Different bore than all the other engines and not in current use by chrysler.
That I can believe...rebuild was late 2004ish..but plenty of 3.2s around then, but discontinued...so can see the aftermarket not making them...but dont underestimate the 3.2...hehe
 

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That I can believe...rebuild was late 2004ish..but plenty of 3.2s around then, but discontinued...so can see the aftermarket not making them...but dont underestimate the 3.2...hehe
I like my 3.2, it'll probably go into a 300M someday that will be a daily driver for me. Just because I upgrade to a new motor doesn't mean that engine won't get some love.

My 3.2 moves pretty good. I'd put it up against any stock LH, maybe an 02 special would take me. Soon I'll confidently be able to say that isn't true. A new computer with special programming and ASP pulley will make me very happy.
 

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yippee ki yay
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Discussion Starter #10
Today I made more progress with removing the pistion and inspecting them and getting the valve covers painted.




Junk that was in the pan...part of my missing rod bearing



This is what I had for bearings that came out



I finally got around to painting my valve covers too (yes I know you will only be able to see a quarter if the valve covers once assembled.) but it still looks nice just the same.


 

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The gold coolant tube there that attaches underneath the lower intake manifold is screwed up. Where its bent at the left side of the picture is supposed to be a much more mild bend. The end of the tube should be horizontal when attached to the LIM, as in parallel with the surface of the LIM. It'll be pretty easy to bend back as long as the metal didn't pinch too much or crack but the gold will probably crack/flake off when you do that.
 

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Valve covers are enamel paint able to with stand 500 degrees of heat. The other parts I'm have replated military grade silver or yellow
But did it come out of a rattle can? There are aerosol spray paints for engines that are high heat but still aren't the same quality you get from paints that are applied with a spray gun.
 

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yippee ki yay
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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like the Dupli-Color high heat enamel Ford Blue spray paint. Should work just fine but you should of went with a classic dodge color like industrial red or hemi orange.
Yeah...I went with a different color to see how it would stand out with valve cover bolts I had replated yellow/gold. I just got the bolts back today.
 

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yippee ki yay
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Discussion Starter #18
But did it come out of a rattle can? There are aerosol spray paints for engines that are high heat but still aren't the same quality you get from paints that are applied with a spray gun.
Yeah it come from a rattle can, since its just the valve covers there shouldn't be a problem....most of the valve cover you will not be able to see anyway....I have this same stuff on another set of valve covers thats been in my other car for a couple of years and so far it holding up pretty good.
 

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yippee ki yay
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Discussion Starter #19


The gold coolant tube there that attaches underneath the lower intake manifold is screwed up. Where its bent at the left side of the picture is supposed to be a much more mild bend. The end of the tube should be horizontal when attached to the LIM, as in parallel with the surface of the LIM. It'll be pretty easy to bend back as long as the metal didn't pinch too much or crack but the gold will probably crack/flake off when you do that.
I was wondering if that was messed up too.....when I'm at the yard i will probable pickup another one....Thanks for the heads up!:clapping:
 

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1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!
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I was wondering if that was messed up too.....when I'm at the yard i will probable pickup another one....Thanks for the heads up!:clapping:
If I were going through that much trouble to dress up the engine and rebuild it, I wouldn't settle for a failure point to develope from re-bending that pipe... if you can't get one from a yard easily, I'd cut out the bend, and put a pre-bent rubber heater hose in place of that bend...
 
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