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One thing about those brakes(I have never used just know from friends), Is that rotors like that race type require to heat up alot to stop. If they dont reach a certian temp the breaking is terrible and then they warp and wear the pads fast.
Most of them on ebay are actually stock rotors with the pattern cnc'd into them.
My buddy went through I think it was 4 pairs of them!
I would say the last set look the best bc they dont look like a stock rotor!

Jay
 

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Be sure to get PHP rotors...the first two links look like the rotors aren't PHP, but the third link has a pic of PHP rotors, you can tell the difference because they are outward vented, as opposed to inward vented on non PHP rotors.

Here's a pic of the vent I'm talkin about:


I personally am planning on getting a set of iRotors crossdrilled/slotted PHP rotors for my Special when the current ones are shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Damn, you guys rock! I had no idea what I was getting into, but now I feel more confident in my decision/purchase. Learn something new everyday! :)


Thanks again.



James
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I noticed that too, but I think I am going to stick with the PHP Rotors (3rd Link). Heck if anything, they're a bit cheaper. I will let everyone know how well they do after a nice road trip.

James
 

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The first 2 links are inside venting rotors(SE, ES) The 3rd link looks similar to an outside vent style rotor that's stock on the R/T, 300m and Special(PHP) to me. Here's a set of that style with the yellow arrows pointing at the outside vent just like OneSpecialM has his pinkie finger stuck in. An interesting thing I noticed on that 3rd link is that there are holes drilled inside the cooling slot that you don't normally see with that type of rotor. I'd be worried about the strength of the rotor being comprimised because that's the only side that connects the friction surface to the hub. If you have steel wheels with wheel covers it's probably not a good idea to go with that style as the heat would be directed outward where the wheel covers are and possibly discoloring/warping them. Any of the stock alloy/aluminum rims should be fine with outside venting. What model car do you have?

 
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Awesome!! Thank you all for the examples. Whew! I guess I got the right ones then! :heh_heh:

Now I can't wait to put em on. IF it ever warms up here. (Needs me a heated garage)


James
 

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qp_20 said:
I don't think that my IRotors are PHP. Was that an option because I don't remember seeing anything about it.

Yeah, they got PHP rotors listed on their site.

Ronbo said:
Here's a set of that style with the yellow arrows pointing at the outside vent just like OneSpecialM has his pinkie finger stuck in.

lol, not my pinkie, just a pic I found online. :baaa:
 

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Those rotors were from Fleabay. I forget the seller off the top of my head. I think the front and rear set was around $185 shipped. I can look it up if you're interested. They're plated to prevent rust. Of course on the friction surfaces the plating would wear off quickly but at least the outer edge and the hub wouldn't rust. For people that have wheels with thin spokes where the rotor is visible thru the wheel it's a plus.
The rears are for sale(new, unused) $50 shipped in the Conti USA and are for cars with ABS (rear discs) not just the R/T.
 

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Black_LHS said:
One thing about those brakes(I have never used just know from friends), Is that rotors like that race type require to heat up alot to stop. If they dont reach a certian temp the breaking is terrible and then they warp and wear the pads fast.
Most of them on ebay are actually stock rotors with the pattern cnc'd into them.
My buddy went through I think it was 4 pairs of them!
I would say the last set look the best bc they dont look like a stock rotor!

Jay
Actually, it isn't the rotor that needs to "heat up", but it's the pads that need to "heat up".
 

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In regards to x-drilled/slotted rotors, I have yet to hear anything bad about iRotors. In fact I will be using iRotors on the rear of my car. For the front I will be using Bendix Street HP rotors, of course. :) I would use Street HP rotors on the rear, but they currently aren't available. :( I have Street HP rotors on my car now and love them.

Some pics after I painted them blue to match my calipers.

Bendix Street HP --> http://www.brianchase.us/intrepidrt/pics/Rotor_BendixStreetHP_front.jpg
iRotors --> http://www.brianchase.us/intrepidrt/pics/Rotor_iRotors_rear.jpg
 

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you did pretty good with the blue paint. Also, those drilled holes don't look chamfered (spelling?). Are they and i'm not noticing it? Do the holes have to be chamfered? I'm looking into a set of drilled/slotted if i ever get rims, since i was stupid enough to forget to take my drilled/slotted rotors off the old trep after the accident. As if they would be in perfect condition anyway, right? lol.

Josiah
 

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JLWX5 said:
you did pretty good with the blue paint. Also, those drilled holes don't look chamfered (spelling?). Are they and i'm not noticing it? Do the holes have to be chamfered? I'm looking into a set of drilled/slotted if i ever get rims, since i was stupid enough to forget to take my drilled/slotted rotors off the old trep after the accident. As if they would be in perfect condition anyway, right? lol.

Josiah
Thanks. I should have done a little better on the inside, but I doubt anyone will notice that when they are on the car.

Both the Bendix Street HP and the iRotors have a chamfer on the holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ronbo said:
Any of the stock alloy/aluminum rims should be fine with outside venting. What model car do you have?

Sorry for the delay. I have a 2000 ES. Ordered them up and should be arriving soon. Glad to hear that the zinc coating will prevent the rusting on the outer edge of the rotor at least. I have the rust on my stock rotors and it's irritating. lol


James
 

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Warlord187 said:
Actually, it isn't the rotor that needs to "heat up", but it's the pads that need to "heat up".
What's about those carbon ceramic brakes than some Porsches use? Wonder if those rotors require a certain temperature.
 

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The zinc coating lasts about six months then they rust.
I have over 100,000 miles on my iRotors (slotted and drilled) with no problems at all. (other than the zinc only lasted 6 months)
Be sure to stagger tighten the wheel nuts (cross pattern and in stages,finger tight/snug/30 lbs/70 lbs/100lbs) to avoild warping the rotors.
 

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RJ said:
What's about those carbon ceramic brakes than some Porsches use? Wonder if those rotors require a certain temperature.
I'm not an export on those, but I do believe the rotors are made of a ceramic based material because ceramic dissipates heat much better than steel. It's really the friction material that is slowing you down so optimal temperature would be based on the brake pad.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just received my Rotors today! They are Awesome!!!!! ALot like the one in the pic above, but the inner groove between the plate and the hub is not as deep. That was one heavy box! Also came with stainless steel brake lines, so I am excited to have these put on.

These are once again from "TriNET Motorsports". And dang worth every penny @ $268 for everything. ($194 for rotors and ordered brake lines seperate from auction on eBay, but they gave me a hell of a deal).

Now that I have these, I am definately going to be getting new calipers. I would just paint my existing ones, but I think they would look like crap with these new Rotors. Any ideas on some good calipers, not too expensive?


Thanks everyone!!


James
 
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