I've been doing the shakes when braking lately but i just had all 4 pads changed on my Trep at 75,000 now it has 82,000 miles on it.... The other day i noticed that my rear and front rotors are rusting very very badly... I'm guessing that's not a good thing right?? Or should the rust not really affect the performance of the rotors??
Rotors...Rusting....
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It depends on where the rust is. The "hat" or the center of the rotor where it slides over the lugs will rust, as will the circumference of the rotor (the outside edge). Even the braking surface of the rotor will form a little rust over night especially if its humid or raining outside. But if the braking surfaces are completely rusted, then your brakes are not working.
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That's not unheard of. I've got over 83K miles and as far as I can tell, everything's OE. I know the rotors gotta be and the pads might be. A lot of that depends on how its driven. I do a lot of highway. Consider that I bought my '01 with 48k on it May 14, 2004 and its got over 83K on it now a little over 2 years later. That ain't from stop-n-go driving. Highway driving is great on brakes because you're not on them as much as around town. Matter of fact when my car was inspected last month they told me I'll probably need brakes soon. I looked at them and they aren't down to the noise makers yet so I'm sure I can go right thru the summer on them.Avenger said:
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Rotors will rust, unless they have a coating on them. Very few have a coating and some that do, the coating eventually comes off.
Rust is normal. Any rust that forms on the area where the pads hit should only be surface rust and should come off after a couple of brake applications. If not, than we have issues (some GM vehicles have this issue with OE Akebono pads).
So did you only replace the pads at 75k miles? Did you not even have the rotors turned?
Rust is normal. Any rust that forms on the area where the pads hit should only be surface rust and should come off after a couple of brake applications. If not, than we have issues (some GM vehicles have this issue with OE Akebono pads).
So did you only replace the pads at 75k miles? Did you not even have the rotors turned?
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I can get 100k out of a set of brakes. Barely use 'em. 
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sounds like you need some rotors
myself i at 51500 miles i still have the original pads(i think) and rotors and they look to have couple more thousand on them....pretty damn good. i would have to say though its because it was a florida car driven by a women who babied the thing. though i dont have any rotor shake, when it comes time to do them, i think ill just replace them anyways
myself i at 51500 miles i still have the original pads(i think) and rotors and they look to have couple more thousand on them....pretty damn good. i would have to say though its because it was a florida car driven by a women who babied the thing. though i dont have any rotor shake, when it comes time to do them, i think ill just replace them anyways
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I get brake shake only when my brakes get really hot, like when coming down a hill, or when I've been on them a lot. Other than that, I haven't had any braking issue. Lately though since I took the left front caliper off I've been getting a chirping noise but not when braking. Its got to have something to do with me pulling things apart.
But yeah right there with Warlord on the rust. Surface rust is pretty normal. I have some pretty much every morning, as evidenced by the grinding I hear for the first couple of times I brake! Actually just recently a co-worker with an Olds Aurora I noticed her rear rotors were rusted solid. I did a double take to make sure they weren't drums! I asked her how her brakes felt and she said not too good. I showed her what I was talking about and it turned out something in the anit-lock system wasn't working and th the back brakes weren't working at all (obvious from the rust).
BTW Warlord. Thanks again for the brake parts info we exchanged PM's about. Comparing prices and discounts between Rockauto (Raybestos) and JC Whitney (Bendix), JC has free shipping orders over $75. So even though the Raybestos parts at Rock are a little cheaper, the shipping deal makes the JC deal better, so its looking like I'm going Bendix after all. One other thing, I'm doing new rotors and pads on all 4 corners. I was also looking at Satisified pads Pro series classic (ft CL591 and rr CL641 or CL658). Any thoughts on Satified and the difference between the rear abs vs non-abs p/n's?
Sorry for the hijack guys!
But yeah right there with Warlord on the rust. Surface rust is pretty normal. I have some pretty much every morning, as evidenced by the grinding I hear for the first couple of times I brake! Actually just recently a co-worker with an Olds Aurora I noticed her rear rotors were rusted solid. I did a double take to make sure they weren't drums! I asked her how her brakes felt and she said not too good. I showed her what I was talking about and it turned out something in the anit-lock system wasn't working and th the back brakes weren't working at all (obvious from the rust).
BTW Warlord. Thanks again for the brake parts info we exchanged PM's about. Comparing prices and discounts between Rockauto (Raybestos) and JC Whitney (Bendix), JC has free shipping orders over $75. So even though the Raybestos parts at Rock are a little cheaper, the shipping deal makes the JC deal better, so its looking like I'm going Bendix after all. One other thing, I'm doing new rotors and pads on all 4 corners. I was also looking at Satisified pads Pro series classic (ft CL591 and rr CL641 or CL658). Any thoughts on Satified and the difference between the rear abs vs non-abs p/n's?
Sorry for the hijack guys!
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I'm really not sure what Satisfied is trying to do with having two different part numbers. The OE design is almost identical. Without knowing how Satisfied has designed those parts, going off the assumption it's based off the OE design, than I'd say go with the cheapest one. If they are the same price, go with the CL658.froggy81500 said:
However, I really have not heard great things about Satisfied. I haven't heard horrible things either.
The only Satisfied pads I would entertain using is the GS line. Now if you get a great deal and are more concerned with the price, than go for it. But personally, I would prefer to go with Bendix (obviously
) or Raybestos, rather than with Satisfied.
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It could be a few things. The rotors are **** and they were "warped" right out of the box. The lug nuts were over-tightened which can "warp" the rotors. The rust was never cleaned off the hub. You could have a perfect rotor, but if there is rust build up on a part of the hub where the rotor meets it, than your rotor will no longer be in the correct orientation (kind of like setting a book on the table, but you accidentally set the bottom of the book on a pencil, so now the book isn't resting flat on the table). Likewise, you could have a bad hub or other steering/suspension issues.dman248 said:
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I went 123k on the orginal pads and rotors on my dakota,, the trep still has the orginal rotors,, rear pads but i did relpace the front pads due to noise when i baught it
when you do your pads make sure the slides on the calipers and lubed up well,, so the slide as they should..
when you do your pads make sure the slides on the calipers and lubed up well,, so the slide as they should..
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