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I was just wondering something I know that mine doesn't have a spec of rust on it and the only intrepids I have seen with rust on it have been ones that have been in accidents and not repaired.. anybody have rust outside of that circumstance?
 

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Me! Mine is forced to live outside everyday, and the rust is starting to show. Also, in spots where the paint chipped off from following big trucks that threw stones, it's begun to rust a bit. Below the rear C pillars and under the rear left passenger door is where it's the worst. I fixed the c pillars, but I've gotta bondo the other spot. Nothing major. The car IS 10 years old, it's to be expected.
 

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The main areas prone to rust are these three:
1) Wheel Wells. The lip on the inside of the rear wheel wells will rust over time depending how often you drive in winter/salty conditions. Good tip, Use a pressure washer in the wheel wells when you clean your car. Spray straight in with the nozzle resting on top the tire. Move it around a bit untill you see the water dripping down from behind the lip. Hold till it drips clean. Keeping this clean will help delay the rusting process.

2) Door seams. The bottom inner door seams are ALWAYS going to rust. Some day, on any vehicle that isn't made of fiberglass. Unless: Every time you wash your car, Clean these seams very very well. Keeping them clean will help to delay or prevent rust. I see more and more people not doing this and withing a couple of years, paint is bubbling up and rust is showing in the seams. ***NOTE*** if you do get your vehicle rust proofed DO NOT clean these seams. Cleaning off the rust proofing that is sprayed on the outside of the seam defeats the purpose of rust proofing. Same goes for wheel wells actually.

3) Rocker Pannels. Not much you can do with these. The rockers on my old 93 trep rusted right through. Looked like ****. Got some new ones made for 200 bux.

A good rule of thumb i like to go by, If you plan on owning the vehicle on it's 10 year birthday and you drive in winters, Get it rust proofed. IE: Mine is a 96, i plan on having it well past 2006, therefore I rust proof it every year.
 

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Rust proofed, LOL! Watch out where yoiu take it, as some dealers just drill holes, and put a plastic cover in it, and say it was rust proofed. Or the rust proof the the place uses dry's up after a few years, like Zebart. I have seen many many cars like this. I'm suprized mine doesnt have any. Not even the paint chips, where a stone hit it rusted for some reason, even when the chip is over a few years old. None on/under the back side of the rockers, wheel wells, or even the sub-frame. Sure makes me a happy camper. :)
 

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It doesn't dry up. It cures. And it is designed to be done every year. Not just once and forget about it. I see vehicles come through that are over 10 years old, in a city that LOVES its salt on the roads and the ones that come every year, NO rust what so ever. I was skeptical before i saw it first hand. Lots of people say they have it rust proofed, but they don't get it done anually. They might as well never get it to start with.

And yes. Dealers seem to be iffy. I have heard more than a few complaints about the rustproofing dealerships offer. One in particular was dodge. Guy got them to do it. Took the rocker panel plugs off underneath the truck and it was bone dry in there.

but as i said. To get it done once and forget about it is just plain stupid.
 

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Well of course its desinged to be done once a year, how else would Zebart make money??? When it comes to rustproofing, cured is just a fancy word for dry and means the same thing. ALL the Zebart treated cars I have seen had "rustproofing" laying at the bottom of the panels in flakes not doing crap. We use two diffrent kinds of WK brand stuff at the shop. The yellow wk never dries and is kick ass stuff, very very hard to get off the surface even after a number of years (very greasy) Along with the dark brown WK, which dries sorta hard, but still has an oily property. That stuff requires laquer thinner to remove it, and never flakes up. Boss said he has had that stuff in his scout II for 7 years now after the resto, and there isnt a spec of rust anywhere. When you take out a plug, or feel inside the fender its still the same as the new stuff, like it was just put in that very day. He drives it year round also. So from all the evidence I see, doing it one time and forgeting about it, when using the proper rustproofer isnt plane stupid.
 

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Depending on where you get it done. The gel stuff is supposed to be good for 2 years. Like anything it depends on the driver. The conditions, and even the vehicle.
Flakes? Of oil? really. I wasn't aware that oil dried in flakes. The stuff inside the pannels will dry up eventually, possible. But Never flake off. Not the stuff ziebart canada uses anyway. The sealant underneath the car can flake or crack but doesn't very often.

No kidding that's how they make money. Just like body shops charge an arm and a leg for rushed, poor paint jobs. Bottom line is money... from company point of view.

But i make the same no matter what. I don't really give a rats azz if the place makes a profit cause i ain't gonna be there very long. But what I do know for shure is that for the average driver. In a northern climate. Who plans to keep the car for a number of years. Rust proofing once a year is not a hell of a lot of money compared to overpaying a body shop to rebuild (bondo up) rusted out pannels 6 years down the road.
 

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Well Zebart in Canada must be diffrent or something, cause around here all the shops closed down, from a horibal track record. I didnt even think they were still in business. I'm serious too, all the stuff was flaked up pieces laying in the bottom of the panels. BTW, not ALL body shops do poor rushed shitty looking paint jobs, alot of em do sadly which gives the rest of us a bad name, but we do nothing of the sort. Like I posted in the where do you work thread, we have a damn good rep. of being the best shop in the area. Sorry for cuttin you down man, I just seen so many rip off jobs around here, i thought all Zebarts would be the same.
 

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It's not the material that Zebart uses but the skill of the installer. I've had Zebart and dealer rustproofing and I'll take Zebart over the dealer from now on. When I bought my 95 LHS from Car Max the first thing I did was have Zebart apply their used car product. Cost me $190 and was worth it. I've had the car over 5 years and it has no rust anywhere. Of course I wash and wax it and it is garage kept but Chicago winters are hell on a car and it will soon look like swiss cheese if not rustproofed.

BTW, BeRad has it right! Just my $0.02.:rolleyes:

FredB:bigsmile:
 

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That is true as well now that you mention it.

The former guy that used to own the franchise here got booted out by Ziebart. He would do anual inspections without even putting the car on the lift. He'd just quick spray in a couple doors or not even at all some times. So they gave him the boot.

And yes there are good body shops as well. Just like anything though right. A few winners, a whole lot of loosers. But the body shop i use kicks ass. I have seen like 20 vehicles they have done and all ace jobs. Very good rates too. And for that one we have about 5 other questionable ones.

Everyone trying to make a buck at any expense and the consumer suffers! Gotta love life. If money is considered a false idol, there's gonna be a lot of room in heaven by the time i get there!
 

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I previously had a '93 ES and drove it for 8 years in southern Ontario, Canada, (snow and salt country).
I found after 5 years the bottom edges of all 4 doors had trapped dirt in the seams which held water like a sponge. Same with the lower edge of the trunk lid.
I sprayed water from the hose at the drains to rinse away most of the dirt, let it drip for a while, then applied heat with a propane torch to drive the last of the water out.
Keep the torch moving so as not to blister the paint.
When it doesn't steam any more, it's dry.
At this point I used a small paint brush and applied synthetic 90 weight gear oil (Used boat outdrive oil-very water resistant) and let it seep into the seams. I re-applied the oil once each fall, and the rust never got any worse after that.
I did have to clean up the oil stains on the rockers occasionally, it would be less messy to use proper solvent/wax mixtures like Ziebart or others in the rustproof business.
 

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95white35 said:
Well of course its desinged to be done once a year, how else would Zebart make money??? When it comes to rustproofing, cured is just a fancy word for dry and means the same thing. ALL the Zebart treated cars I have seen had "rustproofing" laying at the bottom of the panels in flakes not doing crap. We use two diffrent kinds of WK brand stuff at the shop. The yellow wk never dries and is kick ass stuff, very very hard to get off the surface even after a number of years (very greasy) Along with the dark brown WK, which dries sorta hard, but still has an oily property. That stuff requires laquer thinner to remove it, and never flakes up. Boss said he has had that stuff in his scout II for 7 years now after the resto, and there isnt a spec of rust anywhere. When you take out a plug, or feel inside the fender its still the same as the new stuff, like it was just put in that very day. He drives it year round also. So from all the evidence I see, doing it one time and forgeting about it, when using the proper rustproofer isnt plane stupid.
May I ask........what do you mean with the "WK" ref ???
 

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Freddy brought up a good pint, and is right, its not the product, just most likely the person putting the product on, so my apologies. :) "WK" is a brand of rustproofing we have at work, idk what it stands for, just has a big WK on it, and thats what we have called it ever since.
 
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