[SANDMAN]

Ok, My wife's car when I drive it and get to say 20 the steering wheel starts to vibrate, at 50 it's bad. If you hit the brakes, you can literally watch the steering wheel try to jump out of your hand, SIDE TO SIDE, then accelerate adn feel it again, just not as bad. I figure warped rotor, but here is the kicker. At 70+ It drives like a champ, no vibration at all, smooth as silk, until the brakes are pressed.
Tire pressure is on the money, alignment seems to be fine (let go of the wheel and it still goes straight) What gives? I've had the tires balanced and checked like 4 times in the past month and nothing. I am looking to upgrade her suspension and brakes soon. The rotors on this thing look like they belong on a neon, way too small. If I chuck the 15" stockers she has, swap in some 16" or 17" wheels, can I just upgrade the rotors? or are the calipers and hardware different as well?


Thanks

 

[Warlord187]

It sounds like it vibrates even when the brakes AREN'T applied. If this is the case, than warped rotors isn't the cause (the rotors may still be warped, but there is more going on). What kind of car does your wife have? You could upgrade the rotors (if available) with out changing the calipers and such. But, depending on the upgrade, you just may have to change the calipers and such.

 

[rich00es]

2 things I would check:
1) Vibrates when pressing the brake. Sounds like warped rotars.
2) Vibrates at certain speeds, even though you've had the tires balanced. Did you try taking the tires to a different place? Somebody might be making the same mistake over and over and not know it or their equipment is broke. Another thing to consider is the "roundness" of the tire. Seen this on Motorweek...you need to ask the tire store if they have that capability. Vibration could be made if the tires aren't "round." Also, make sure the wheels are clean. Someone could have run through some mud and got some "clumps" in the wheel.
Good luck. HTH.

 

[blkbute]

I had bad steering wheel vibration when I used my brakes, it was warped rotors.

 

[SANDMAN]

She drives a 98 'trep 2.7l Base. When you say MORE than just rotors, what do you mean? Like bent axles or crappy bearings? If feels like the passenger side. The vibration is very minute when driving, you can feel your hand shaking, but when you hit the brake it is visible. Also, it's does it worse sometimes, and sometimes barely noticeable. After a long hard brake from 50, you can hear the sound of the brakes, sort of like brake fade, but a long grind. I check the outside of the rotor after taking it for a hell ride to see wtf was going on and the rotors weren't blue or anything.

 

[IntrepidXJ]

TSB #29 for 98 2.7:
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/tsb/1998/1998_2.7L_DOHC.html

 

[IntrepidXJ]

Same TSB applies to:

1998 SE
1998 ES
1999 SE
1999 ES
2000 SE
2000 ES

Happened on both my 98 ES and now on my 99 ES (though, not as bad as you seem to have it...). Mine mainly vibrates when i brake from higher speeds. Could never get rid of it, so I've just learned to deal with it.

 

[MoparPerformance]

yeah I hate that shhht. my 99 ES does that crap too but not as bad. I am going to replace my serpentine belt and bushings to see if it helps. Then I will make the dealer give me a new rack and pinion gear box. I have have checked everything steering and suspension related, adjusted tire pressure several times etc. For more info just refer to my post RE: Flimsy/Floppy Steering. Dealer always says nothings wrong. Taken it to two different dealers.

Take care guys, happy holidays!

Good luck!
Moparperformance

[ December 18, 2001: Message edited by: MoparPerformance ]

 

[Shane]

Had the same problem on my older Trep. It was a combination of things. The primary problem was worn rubber grommets on the inner tie rods where they meet at the rack. They are suppose to have some play. If you drive your car hard like I did the inner tie rods wear down really quick. Like you the dealers and tire shops could not find a thing wrong when they put it on there machines. The tie rods run about $75.00 each. Its the labor that kills you especially on the inner rods. I know, I sacrificed plenty of blood to the engine god.

After replacing them I took it down and had an alignment done. Drove like new!

Good luck.

 

[IntrepidXJ]

Originally posted by darkside:
After replacing them I took it down and had an alignment done. Drove like new!

That's the problem, when I got my 98 new, it did this right from the start.

 

[DMAG]

My 99 did it from the factory. After 2 years of living with it, I had an alignment and that got rid of 90% of it.

 

[SANDMAN]

Well I ordered new pads and rotors, hopefully they get here soon. It's driving me nuts, and my wife is afraid to drive the car the way it is.

 

[viprman]

Mine used to vibrate at speeds under 35 mph. Then I had an alignment done, and the problem went away.

 

[SANDMAN]

Well here's the scoop so far.
I replaced the brakes and the violent shakes when braking went away. It still vibrates at speeds over 45 but you can really feel it when the gass isn't pressed (coasting) I'm leaning towards a motor mount because I have checked and tightened every bolt, had 2 alignments, and the tires rotated and balanced and the wheels checked for out of round.

On a side note, the brakes on these cars are easy to change. Did it for 130 bucks for the front (new brakes pads and rotors) with the factory jack, a crescent wrench, hammer and brake cleaner. It only took a total of 30 min for both sides

 

[adaptabl]

Get the front spindles checked. The bearings wear and wreck the spindles(too soft steel).

 

[SANDMAN]

While I had the rotor off I tried jiggling the hub to see if it would move, nothing out of the ordinary. Still tight and no play other than in and out which is normal.

 

[Turbo]

HEY, I had that same problem. After almost two years from buying the car new, the steering wheel would shake at speeds over 50. Then when I would hit the brakes the steering would shake uncontrolabely. I went to the dealership and they said that the steering system was soo bad it wasn't safe to drive. I said "What the F*ck!" I wasn't even beating on my car. Apparently there was a problem with the
1.) steering gear
2.) tie tod end
3.) stabalizer bar to strut link
4.) warped rotors.

The root of the problem was the steering gear it caused all of those 4 problems. It sure sounds like you might have a treering gear problem. It was all covered under warrenty for me.

 

[jptrepid]

One other thing to look at for those of us that are getting up there in miles ar ethe CV Joints. I've seen som ecars come in with really bad vibrations, we end up just replacing both halfshafts and it's all better.

I'm still looking for some decent brakes for my Intrepid!

 

[pbrannigan]

interesting

That's strange... I always thought warped rotors were caused by heat and a rotor that is too thin. Usually you will have the brakes done and the dealer takes down the rotor to smooth out in perfections. Then a few K miles later you start to feel a pulse.

Actually if the rotors aren't super expensive then I would change them on every brake job.

Patrick

 

[Warlord187]

Re: interesting

That's strange... I always thought warped rotors were caused by heat and a rotor that is too thin.

There are a few reasons for warping a rotor. That is one reason. Others include defective/broken calipers, cheap/uneven weared brake pads, defective/broken master cylinder. Heck, I'm sure I don't even know 100% of the reasons why rotors warp.