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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I'm goin to keep this simple.

Question 1: I've been seeing these commercials for these Silverstar Ultras ("Now you see me, now you don't") and have thought about picking up a pair. Has anybody else installed these yet? If so, how have they been performing? I also want to know if those who already have the previous Silverstars are satistified as well. The only thing preventing me from getting them already is the fact that I burned my previous fog light reflectors when I installed Silverstar H3s, and don't want the same to happen to my regular headlights. Are your refectors still looking normal?

Question 2: I'm planning on painting the trunk reflector bar to match the color of the car and cover the light to only display my license plate when I brake. I know about where to get the paint, clear coat etc. My only questions are, when you sand do you HAVE to have some kind of powertool? I don't have access to any right now, so I plan on just sanding the old fashioned way. Should this be a problem? Also, what type of sandpaper would you recommend I use?

Thanks in advance for your responses!
 

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Hand sanding is fine i use a foam/sponge sanding block with 600 grit or finer. use light pressure. Be sure to use a plastic friendly primer as many paints will attach the plastic.
 

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Ive been using the silverstars for about 3 months, there is a difference, but not much, my dad had them in his dodge ram, they both burnt out within a year. I personally think they are a waste of money
 

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Discussion Starter #4
300Michael said:
Hand sanding is fine i use a foam/sponge sanding block with 600 grit or finer. use light pressure. Be sure to use a plastic friendly primer as many paints will attach the plastic.
Ahh......so the steps are the following?

1. Sanding
2. Primer
3. Regular Paint
4. Clear Coat

And yea, I haven't heard too much about the Silverstars....but anything would be an improvement over what I got now.....
 

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Before you install the SU's, be aware of their lifespan. IIRC, the regular Silverstars are rated at about 150 hrs, and the Ultras at about 200. "Normal" bulbs are something like 1500.
 

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My last pair lasted over 2 1/2 years. And where still going strong, when we sold the PTCruiser . And i have heard of others only lasting year or so. My self i am very happy with the better lighting.
 
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I put a set of GE's Night Hawks in my wifes Neon. These things are way better than
the silver stars.Plus,they only cost me about $10.00 each. I don't know about the
life expectancy, but I'll wager it's longer than the Sylvanias.
 
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I had the original Silverstar's installed. Both of them blew out within a week of each other but they lasted almost 2 years. Great upgrade to OEM lights.
 
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I've had Silverstars for about a year with no problems, and last week put the new Ultras in. Noticeably brighter, but not by much. Lets see how long they last...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
RS23V0G said:
I put a set of GE's Night Hawks in my wifes Neon. These things are way better than
the silver stars.Plus,they only cost me about $10.00 each. I don't know about the
life expectancy, but I'll wager it's longer than the Sylvanias.
Yea, I saw these too.....and wondered which one would be better. Last night on my way to work in the middle of the rain.....don't know how I made it there, my lighting was absolutely horrible. The only thing I could see was the dashing white lines maybe about.....12 feet in front of me (on the unlit parts of the road) so Silverstars will be installed sometime this month. If they only last a year, so be it. I'd rather have great lighting that last shortly, than crappy lighting that last forever.

The 3rd tailight brake light project will be in the works sometime this month as well....I'll post pics to show the results. Hopfully everything goes well, if not....I'll be in BST askin for another one :D.
 

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Just remove the fog light reflectos, they look much better and imo work better.

I just had my first regular silverstar burn out, and I run with my fogs on all the time so its no surprise. I've gotten well over 200 hours out of my silverstar bulbs and am completely satisfied.

I doubt I'll switch to the ultras anytime soon because to upgrade all my bulbs would cost me 120 bucks when the regular silverstars look great already.
 

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MikeW said:
The silverstars are still a scam.
There is still the blue filter on the envelope.

The silverstar H3s are overwattage, by a lot. Stock is 35 watts, silverstars are 65watts.

Pulling the bulb shield turn the fog lights into driving lights, meaning they only operate when the high beams are on.

http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/...atchId=70&ProductNumber=H3 ST&PartNo= ST, ST
On my M the Fog lights work alone or with the lo beams.

Since the reflector is designed to reflect all the light from the back of the bulb out why would removing it give out more light?????
Also check the wiring since using larger then stock bulbs can cause problems (10 watts over shouldn't be too much of a problem but over twice the wattage I would keep a sharp eye on.)
 

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Yeah baby! 1000th Post!

I'm kinda partial to the Sylvania XtraVision. No fancy color tints, just long life but BRIGHT bulb. It's one of the best, and it isnt too expensive.

If yo look at them side by side, the XtraVision is actually brighter than the SilverStar. No joke. The blue may make the SilverStar appear brighter, but when you are in the boondocs, I think youll appreciate the extra light from the non tinted bulbs.

There are some HIR (halogen infra-red) bulbs that have a coating that causes the bulb to conserve heat. These are a LOT brighter. They require some base modification to fit in our lamps because they aren't designed to go in our headlamps, but once modded, they are very nice. Just make sure the lenses aren't fogged up at all and that the lamps are properly aligned or you will have a big glare problem. You won't find these bulbs at Wal Mart..... you have to get them online. I think Osram makes them.

Hey, it's my 1000th post...... give me some rep! :D
 

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MikeW said:
The silverstars are still a scam.
There is still the blue filter on the envelope.

The silverstar H3s are overwattage, by a lot. Stock is 35 watts, silverstars are 65watts.

Pulling the bulb shield turn the fog lights into driving lights, meaning they only operate when the high beams are on.

http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/sylvania/ProductBrowse_Highp_SilverStar.asp?BepartNo=&BatchId=70&ProductNumber=H3%20ST&PartNo=%20ST,%20%20ST

I hate to burst your bubble and I'm not trying to be a dick, but you have absolutely no idea what you're talking about. Call them a scam if you want, but anyone that looks at the bulbs when they buy them can see the blue film, it makes it give off a desired color. If you don't want that, fine don't buy it but don't make it sound like that part of them is a scam.

Mostly though I want to clarify that pulling the bulb shield does not turn them into driving lights. Why would removing a piece of plastic affect the operation of the lights. They still can be used only on their own or with low beams. When you flick on the high beams it cuts the fogs.

As for them being overwattage, the difference is not a problem as far as electrical systems go. I've been running silverstar fogs for two years now no problems.
 

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Silverstar bulbs DO NOT BURN BLUE! Besides my own personal experience with them over the past 3 years there are a ton of posts about them right on this site and almost every one of them says the same thing. Silverstars burn a very clean white, no yellow, no blue - just white.

Stock high beams

Silverstars
 

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I agree that they don't look a cheesy blue at all, just white. Perhaps he is thinking of sylvania's other bulbs that are "cool Blue" or whatever?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yea, I have seen the cool blue headlights.....but didn't want those for fear that they might be illegal here.

Went to a auto paint shop the other day about painting my 3rd brake light, and basically they said i would need a good spray gun in order to have a paint that will last. He said that regular Duplicolor spray paint would not last as long.....which I'm sure is a pretty valid point. I think this project will have to wait until the spring anyways.....I don't have access to any hobby shops or anywhere to spray paint, and it's entirely too cold to do it outside.
 

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The duplicolor point is very important, but the biggest thing to remember is that it won't match perfectly. It you're going to do this use nothing but oem paint.

Most people do not use a spray gun, I personally would though just because im a perfectionist.
 

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The scam is: run the bulbs at the outer limit of the bulb spec by running the highest posible wattage. That gives more light at the filament, but chop all those gains down by running a blue pass filter on the envelope. Now charge more than the average bulb and have the lifespan be shorter than the average bulb.
Good for the business, bad for everyone else.


D76G12: I hope you don't have those high beam DRLs, because that blue light would be extra glaring
 
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