Check all your spark plugs, spark plug wires and fuel injectors. Run some STP full engine cleaner in there (the kind in the bigger grey bottle) just for the hell of it too.
My car shakes around 40-55mph with gas applied lightly, so I keep it in 3rd to keep the RPM'S up so it doesn't shake until I get to 60mph, then I shift to D. I got five new fuel injectors, timing chain, water pump, radiator fan, and engine gasket and none of that fixed the problem. The mechanic I go to thinks the shaking is continuing because of the vacuum tubes or spark plug wires.
I don't know if that helps, but ever since my car started shaking, its been more sluggish.
take the airbox and the accordian tube out and clean them with soap and water. take that T connector off and clean it too. also, go at night and turn the engine on and spray the top of it with a mist of water. if you see arcing then you need new wires. new plugs might help too, they're not that expensive. also, it probably wouldn't hurt to run a tank of STP fuel system cleaner. if those don't do it you might be looking at new injectors, which aren't cheap, but are not as expensive as more serious problems.
biggest thing I found for sluggishness is a clogged fuel filter.
does yer car idle fine but kinda bog down when you give er? like it tries but can't quite get there? or is is just a lack of power, like you step on the gas and it feels like a lawn mower engine.. tryin its best to get ya goin?
Filter will be the Bogged down type feel, but engine-related problems will be more along the lines of the lawnmoer analogy.
also check yer fuel pump. had one of those go on a car before.. couldn't figure that one out.....
mine is a rough starter too, but only when i leave it sit for more than a few days. its not sluggish once it gets up to temp, but starting it is...itll idle rough and stall...i am going to buy a new fuel filter when i get some $$$ and put it in, but i dont really know when thatll be!
if you want a good oil or fuel additive, keep an eye out for B&G products...one of the best out there
I agree, do the cheapest and easiest things first. Check for fault codes. Change your plugs, mist water over your wires at night. Change your fuel filter. You can do all these for under $25 and within an hour. Something that no one has mentioned that helped me with my poor performance was to clean the metal shavings and garbage off of the bottom of the crankshaft sensor. Wow did that help a lot for me. Keep us informed.
Just a note on changing you fuel filter... If you don't want fuel spraying all over you, take the fuel pump relay out of the relay box under the hood and run the car until it dies. This will releave any pressure in the fuel line so it will only trickle out at you. Much more safe.
Isn't that REALLY bad for the engine? (Removing the pump relay and letting the car run till it dies?)
I was told from a mechanic that all you have to do to depressurize the system is to remove the gas tank cap.......but I haven't tried it yet.....gonna do my fuel filter this weekend hopefully, cause my engine feels sluggish too...then again, I think it's WAY past time to do the air filter....just waiting for a K&N....
1. Remove the gas cap.
2. Remove the cap from the fuel pressure test port located on the fuel rail. On the 3.3 it's on the driver side about midway up. On the 3.5 it's on the front near the thermostat housing.
3. Attach a fuel pressure gauge, open the valve on it and drain the fuel into a gas can.
3. Place several rags around the test port and using a screwdriver push in the little valve slowly to drain the fuel onto the rags. You might want to place another rag over the top of it while doing this too.
4. Replace the cap onto the fuel pressure test port.
The manuals all say to remove the Fuel Pump Fuse from the Fuse panel in the car, start the car, let it go till it dies That will depressurize the system, and there is no problem doing that. THat is the constant flow fuel injected cars work nowadays, and that has been the directions on my Pontiac, Olds, and Intrepid.
Thanks for backing me up on that one Lefrad. I knew that I had read it somewhere but I couldn't remember the reference. Anyhow, this is how I depressurized my system when it came time to replace the fuel filter. Worked like a charm and I didn't get a drip of fuel on me. I haven't experienced any problems with my car since (fuel related) so I would say that it works well. Plus you don't end up wasting your rags by draining it from the fuel rail cross-over as MP3Trep described.
I would like to say that the technique as described by MP3Trep is much quicker than what I described, but alittle more labor intensive.