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Discussion Starter #1
If you are anywhere near 100K on your 2.7, its time to start thinking about replacing a few components. The timing chain, guides, tensioner, waterpump, oil pump, oil pickup tube, and valve stem seals tend to go on alot on these cars. Using the manuals located at http://dvms.dvusd.org/02lhe/ i created a step by step guide on exactly how to do this and what special tools will be needed. The manual gets pretty repetitive, so here are the condensed steps if you were to change out all of the above mentioned:

Special tools needed:

Special Tool 8191- Hold the crankshaft damper so that center bolt can be removed and tightend

Special Tools 8194 and 1023 Three Jaw Puller – removes dampener

Special Tools 8179 Screw, Nut and Thrust Bearing from 6792, and 6792-1 used to install the vibration dampener

Special Tools 5048-1, 5048-6, and 8539 used to remove crankshaft sprocket

Special Tools 8215 and 8216 Adaptor used to depress valve spring to release tension on rocker arm

Special Tool MD 998772A with adapter 6779 used to compress valve spring so that locks, retainer and spring can be removed

Special Tool 8186 – used for depressing the check ball end of the tensioner to purge oil from the tensioner

Mopart Engine RTV GEN II

Special Tool 6780-2 sleeve and 6780-2 – used to install crankshaft oil

Special Tool 8195- filling aid funnel to pressure bottle filler neck


(1) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
before attempting any repairs.
(2) Disconnect negative cable from remote jumper
terminal.
(3) Remove air cleaner housing and inlet hose.
(4) Disconnect Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
connector. Remove air inlet resonator and inlet tube.
(5) Remove throttle cable and speed control cable
from throttle arm and bracket by doing the following:
Working from the engine compartment, hold
the throttle body throttle lever in the wide open position.
Pull the cable forward and slide it out of the
throttle body cam.
(6) From inside the vehicle, hold up the pedal and
remove the cable retainer and throttle cable from the
upper end of the pedal shaft (Fig. 1).
(7) Remove retainer clip from throttle cable and
grommet at dash panel (Fig. 2).
(8) From the engine compartment, pull the throttle
cable out of the dash panel grommet. The grommet
should remain in the dash panel.
(9) Remove the throttle cable from throttle bracket
by carefully compressing both retaining ears simultaneously.
Then gently pull the throttle cable from
throttle bracket.
(10) Remove throttle cable bracket.
(11) Disconnect electrical connectors from the following
components:
² Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
² Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Sensor
² Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(12) Disconnect Vapor Purge hose, Brake Booster
hose, Speed Control Servo, Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) hose (Fig. 105).
(13) Loosen upper fastener at throttle body support
bracket.
(14) Remove manifold attaching bolts (Fig. 107).
(15) Remove upper manifold (Fig. 106).
(16) Remove cylinder head covers. (Refer to 9 -
(17) Drain cooling system
When servicing the cooling system, it is essential
that coolant does not drip on the drive belts or pulleys.
If neccessary, shield the belts with shop towels
before working on the cooling system. If coolant contacts
the belts or pulleys, flush both with clean
water.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE HOSE CLAMPS OR
HOSES, CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS, COOLANT
BOTTLE CAP, OR OPEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK, WHEN THE SYSTEM IS HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM THE COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
The radiator draincock that is located at the lower
right side of radiator (Fig. 4). The draincock stem is
closed in the horizontal position, pointing to 3:00
o’clock. Draining takes place through the cooling
module’s lower right side insulator. Do Not Use pliers
to open draincock.
CAUTION: Do not pull outward on the draincock
flange while opening. Damage to the draincock
body and O-ring seal may occur
(18) To open the draincock to the minimum drain
position, turn the draincock stem countercolockwise
to the 12:00 o’clock position. For the maximum drain
position, turn draincock stem counterclockwise 180
degrees to the 9:00 o’clock position.
(19) Remove coolant pressure bottle cap and open the bleed valve.
(20) Remove the cylinder block drain plug(s) located
below each exhaust manifold.
Most service drains are about 80 percent of capacity
because not all coolant is drained from system.
For capacity specifications, (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID
CAPACITIES)
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at
97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) pressure. Exceeding this
pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
DRIVE BELTS - 2.7L
REMOVAL
GENERATOR/POWER STEERING BELT
(21) Loosen tensioner pulley locking nut (Fig. 1).
(22) Loosen belt adjusting bolt (Fig. 1).
(23) Remove generator/power steering belt.
AIR CONDITIONING BELT
NOTE: The A/C drive belt self tensioner is NOT a
dynamic tensioner. After adjustment the tensioner
bracket bolts are tightened. The torsion spring is no
longer responsible for tensioning the A/C belt. The
torsion spring is only used for initial belt tensioning.
(24) Remove generator/power steering belt to gain
access to A/C belt. Refer to GENERATOR/POWER
STEERING BELT for procedure.
(25) Loosen BUT DO NOT REMOVE tensioner
locking bolt and pivot bolt (Fig. 2).
(26) Insert 1/2” drive breaker bar into square opening
on belt tensioner. Rotate tensioner counterclockwise
until belt can be removed from pulleys (Fig. 2).
(27) Slowly rotate tensioner clockwise to relieve
spring load.
(28) Remove the vibration dampener by removing the upper radiator cromssmember.
(29) Mark bolt locations on the upper radiator closure
panel.
(30) Remove bolts attaching windshield washer bottle
and speed control servo, if equipped (Fig. 4).
(31) Remove headlamp jackscrews both sides.
(32) Remove fasteners attaching upper bumper fascia.
(33) Remove bolts attaching the forward edge of
upper radiator closure panel.
(34) Remove bolts attaching upper radiator closure
panel.
(35) Disconnect hood latch cable from hood latch.
(36) Remove upper radiator closure panel from vehicle.
(37) Disconnect radiator fan motor electrical connector.
(38) Partially drain cooling system below the level
of the upper radiator hose.
(39) Disconnect upper radiator hose from radiator.
(40) Remove radiator fan attaching fasteners and
upper clip (Fig. 24).
(41) Remove radiator fan by lifting upward to clear
(42) Remove damper center bolt while holding the
damper with Special Tool 8191 (Fig. 76).
CAUTION: Before removing damper, verify that A/C
belt tensioner is not contacting the damper, as
damage could occur to tensioner, timing chain
cover, and/or damper.
(43) Remove damper by using Special Tools 8194
and 1023 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 77).
(44) Remove lower intake manifold by the following:
(45) Disconnect electrical connectors from the fuel
injectors.
(46) Remove fuel supply hose from fuel rail.
(47) Remove screw attaching fuel rail support
bracket to the throttle body support bracket.
(48) Remove bolts attaching fuel rail.
(49) Remove fuel rail and injectors as an assembly.
(50) Remove manifold attaching bolts (Fig. 108).
(51) Remove lower manifold.
(52) Inspect manifold
(53) Remove cylinder head cover and timing chain
cover by the following:
(56) Remove power steering pump from mounting
bracket.
(57) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner pulley
and bracket.
(58) Remove timing chain cover attaching bolts and
remove cover.
(59) Now ready to remove the timing chain and sprokets
CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always
rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to
do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
(60) Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to mark
on oil pump housing (Fig. 116). The mark on oil
pump housing is 60° ATDC of #1 cylinder.
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT rotate
the camshafts or crankshaft without first locating
the proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will
result in valve and/or piston damage.
(61) Remove primary timing chain tensioner from
right cylinder head (Fig. 117).
(62) Remove camshaft position sensor from left cylinder
head (Fig. 118).
(63) Remove chain guide access plug from left cylinder
head (Fig. 118).
NOTE: When camshaft sprocket bolts are removed,
the camshafts will rotate in a clockwise direction.
(64) Starting with the right camshaft sprocket,
remove the sprocket attaching bolts. Remove camshaft
damper (if equipped) and sprocket (Fig. 118).
(65) Remove left side camshaft sprocket attaching
bolts and remove sprocket (Fig. 118).
(66) Remove lower chain guide and tensioner arm
(Fig. 118).
(67) Remove the primary timing chain.
(68) For removal of crankshaft sprocket,
CAUTION: Use care not to turn crankshaft while
removing crankshaft sprocket, as damage to valves
and or pistons could occur.
(69) Remove crankshaft sprocket by first installing
the crankshaft damper bolt. Apply grease or equivalent
to damper bolt head and position Special Tools
5048-1, 5048-6, and 8539 on sprocket and crankshaft
nose (Fig. 119). Remove sprocket using care not to
rotate the crankshaft.
WATER PUMP - 2.7
REMOVAL
The water pump on all models can be replaced
without discharging the air conditioning system.
NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a
small amount of coolant from the weep hole (black
stain at weep passage). Do not replace the water
pump if this condition exists. Replace the water
pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine
coolant is evident on side of the cylinder block
from the weep hole passage (shaft seal failure). Be
sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing
water pump.
(70) Remove the timing chain guides-
(71) Remove bolts attaching water pump to block
(Fig. 28).
(72) Remove water pump and gasket.
WATER PUMP INSTALLATION
(73) Clean all sealing surfaces.
(74) Install water pump and gasket. Tighten mounting
bolts to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
REMOVE OIL PUMP
The oil pump pressure relief valve can be serviced
by removing the oil pan.
(75) Remove oil pan by the following method.
(76) Remove dipstick and tube.
(77) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(78) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(79) Disconnect suspension stabilizer bar and reposition
for oil pan clearance by doing the following:
(80) Remove the 4 strut assembly upper mount to
strut tower mounting nut and washer assemblies
securing the right front strut in place (Fig. 37).
(81) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(82) Remove right front wheel and tire assembly
from the vehicle.
(83) Remove structural collar from oil pan to transmission
housing (Fig. 91).
(84) Remove lower bolt attaching the A/C compressor
to oil pan.
(85) Disconnect engine oil cooler line from pan (if
equipped).
CAUTION: Assure removal of the two bolts attaching
the timing cover to the oil pan, as damage to
the timing cover and/or oil pan may occur.
(86) Remove oil pan attaching fasteners. Remove oil
pan and gasket (Fig. 92).
(87) Remove oil pick-up tube and O-ring (Fig. 95).
(88) Ensure that crankshaft position is at 60° ATDC
of No.1 cylinder, or crankshaft sprocket mark aligns
with mark on oil pump (Fig. 94). This position will
properly locate oil pump upon installation.
(89) Remove oil pump attaching bolts (Fig. 95).
(90) Remove oil pump.
OIL PUMP and PICKUP TUBE INSTALLATION
OIL PUMP INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Crankshaft position must be at 60° ATDC
of No.1 cylinder before installing oil pump (Fig. 94).
This position will properly locate oil pump. If not
properly located, severe damage to oil pump can
occur.
(91) Prime oil pump before installation by filling
rotor cavity with engine oil.
(92) If crankshaft has been rotated, it must be repositioned
to 60° ATDC of No.1 cylinder prior to oil
pump installation (Fig. 94).
(93) Install oil pump carefully over crankshaft and
into position.
(94) Install oil pump attaching bolts. Tighten bolts
to 28 N•m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 95).
(95) Install oil pick-up tube with new O-ring. Lubricate
O-ring before installation. Tighten attaching
bolts to 28 N•m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 95).
(96) Install oil pan by the following
OIL PAN INSTALLATION
(97) Clean oil pan and sealing surfaces. Inspect oil
pan and timing chain cover gaskets. Replace as necessary.
(98) Apply an 1/8 inch bead of Mopart Engine RTV
GEN II to the front T-joints (oil pan gasket to timing
cover gasket interface) and the rear T-joints (oil pan
interface) (Fig. 92).
(99) Install oil pan gasket to block.
NOTE: To prevent oil leaks at oil pan to timing
chain cover, the following tightening sequence procedure
must be performed.
(100) Install oil pan and fasteners (Fig. 92) using the
following tightening sequence:
(a) Install oil pan bolts and nuts finger tight
only—just tight enough to compress the gasket’s
rubber seal.
(b) Install timing chain cover to pan bolts and
tighten to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
(c) Tighten oil pan bolts to 28 N•m (250 in. lbs.).
(d) Tighten oil pan nuts to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
(5) Install lower bolt attaching the A/C compressor
to oil pan. Tighten bolt to 28 N•m (21 ft. lbs.).
(101) Connect engine oil cooler line to oil pan (if
equipped).
CAUTION: The collar must be tighten using the following
procedure, as damage to the collar or oil
pan may occur.
(102) Install structural collar (Fig. 91) using the following
tightening sequence:
(a) Install the vertical collar to oil pan bolts.
Torque bolts initially to 1.1 N•m (10 in. lbs.).
(b) Install the horizontal collar to transmission
bolts and torque to 55 N•m (40 ft. lbs.).
(c) Starting with the center vertical bolts and
working outward, final torque bolts to 55 N•m (40
ft. lbs.).
(103) Install oil filter and drain plug.
(104) Connect suspension stabilizer bar by the following:
(105) Install stabilizer bar by reversing the manner
in which it was removed (Fig. 47). Rotate the bar the
opposite direction used when removed and move it
into mounting position.
CAUTION: Be careful not to pull knuckle outward,
thus stretching halfshaft and possibly separating
inner C/V joint. See Driveshafts. Keep knuckle in
upright position.
(106) Lower the jack supporting the engine, guiding
the motor mount studs into place in the cradle
assembly (Fig. 46).
(107) Install the 4 engine motor mount to cradle
assembly attaching nuts (Fig. 44). Tighten the 4 nuts
to a torque of 61 N•m (45 ft. lbs).
pan and the transaxle. The structural collar should
be installed using the following sequence:
² Position collar onto engine oil pan and transaxle
(Fig. 43).
² Install the 2 center collar bolts to oil pan bolts.
Tighten bolts initially to 3 N•m (30 in. lbs).
² Install collar to transmission bolts and tighten
to 61 N•m (45 ft. lbs).
² Install the remaining collar to engine oil pan
bolts. starting with the center bolts and working outwards,
tighten collar to oil pan bolts to 61 N•m (45 ft.
lbs).
(108) Install stabilizer bar isolator bushings onto stabilizer
bar with slits facing forward and flat side facing
downward. The stabilizer bar to cradle
assembly bushings must be positioned on the
stabilizer bar so the slit in the bushing is positioned
toward front of vehicle (Fig. 48).
(109) Install the isolator bushing retainers onto the
stabilizer bar isolator bushings (Fig. 45).
CAUTION: When stabilizer bar is installed, position
stabilizer bar so lower part of stabilizer bar is centered
in the middle of the cradle assembly. Failure
to do this may cause stabilizer bar to come in contact
with other suspension components.
(110) Align the stabilizer bar bushing retainers with
the mounting holes in the cradle assembly. Install
and tighten the 4 stabilizer bar bushing retainer to
cradle assembly attaching bolts to 61 N•m (45 ft.
lbs.). (Fig. 45).
(111) Install left side stabilizer bar attaching link to
left end of stabilizer bar (Fig. 39). Install attaching
nut and tighten to 95 N•m (70 ft. lbs.).
(112) Install right front strut assembly into shock
tower. Install the 4 strut assembly upper mount to
shock tower attaching nuts (Fig. 37). Tighten the 4
strut mount to strut tower attaching nuts to a torque
of 45 N•m (33 ft. lbs.) torque.
(113) Position steering knuckle into strut assembly.
CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated were they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When installing
bolts, turn nuts onto bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.
(114) Install the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolts (Fig. 42). Install nuts on attaching
bolts. Tighten the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolt nuts to a torque of 203 N•m (150 ft.
lbs.).
(115) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock
brakes. Install the front speed sensor cable routing
bracket onto the front strut assembly (Fig. 41).
(116) Install outer tie rod on strut assembly. Install
tie rod attaching nut (Fig. 38). Tighten the tie rod
attaching nut to a torque of 37 N•m (27 ft. lbs.).
(117) Install stabilizer bar link on strut (Fig. 38).
Tighten the stabilizer link attaching nut to a torque
of 95 N•m (70 ft. lbs.).
(118) Install the right front wheel and tire assembly.
(119) Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick and
tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
continued:

(120) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct
level.
(121) Begin removal of camshafts
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CAMSHAFT END
PLAY
(122) Measure camshafts end play by mounting a
dial indicator to a stationary point on cylinder head
(Fig. 21).
(123) Locate the probe perpendicular against the end
of camshaft being checked.
(124) Move camshaft all the way to the rear of its
travel. Zero the dial indicator.
(125) Move camshaft forward to limits of travel and
read the dial indicator.
REMOVAL
(126) Making sure that the primary chain has been removed already,
remove secondary chain tensioner mounting bolts.
NOTE: Camshaft bearing caps have been marked
during engine manufacturing. For example, number
one exhaust camshaft bearing is marked “1E>”
(127) Slowly loosen camshaft bearing cap bolts in
reverse order of installation (Fig. 22).
(128) Remove camshaft bearing caps.
(129) Remove camshafts, secondary chain, and tensioner
together as an assembly.
(130) Remove tensioner and camshaft chain from
camshafts.
(131) Inspect camshafts.
(132) Rocker arms must be removed as well.
The rocker arms are composed of steel stampings
with an integral roller bearing (Fig. 39). The rocker
arms incorporate a 0.5 mm (0.0197 in.) oil hole in the
lash adjuster socket for roller/camshaft lobe lubrication
(Fig. 39).
OPERATION
The rocker arm is the pivot point between the camshaft
lobe and the valve.
REMOVAL
(133) CAUTION: Always rotate engine by turning the
crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve
and/or piston damage.
(134) Rotate engine until the cam lobe is on its base
circle (heel), on the rocker arm being removed.
CAUTION: Depress valve spring only enough to
remove rocker arm.
(135) Using Special Tools 8215 and 8216 Adaptor,
depress valve spring only enough to release tension
on rocker arm (Fig. 40).
(136) Remove rocker arm from cylinder head.
CAUTION: If rocker arms are to be reused, identify
position of rocker arms for reassembly in their original
positions.
(137) Repeat procedure for each rocker arm removed.
(138) Inspect the rocker arm for wear or damage.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARMS - INSPECTION)
(139) With air hose attached to spark plug adapter
installed in the cylinder being serviced, apply 620.5–
689 kPa (90–100 psi) air pressure. This is to hold
valves in place while servicing components.
(140) Using Special Tool MD 998772A with adapter
6779, compress valve spring and remove valve locks,
retainer, and valve spring.
(141)Remove valve spring.
(142) Remove valve stem seal by using a valve seal
tool (Fig. 38).
(143) Replace valve stem seals
(144) Install valve springs by the following:
VALVE SPRING INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - IN VEHICLE
(145) The valve stem seal/valve spring seat should be
pushed firmly and squarely over the valve guide
using the valve stem as guide. Do Not Force seal
against top of guide. When installing the valve
retainer locks, compress the spring only enough to
install locks
(146) Follow the same procedure on the remaining
cylinders using the firing sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6. Make
sure piston is at TDC on the cylinder that the
valve spring is to be removed.
(147) Remove spark plug adapter tool and Special
Tool MD 998772A.
(148) Install rocker arm(s) by the following method:
(149) Lubricate rocker arms with clean engine oil
before installation.
(150) Rotate engine until cam lobe is on its base circle
(heel) of rocker arm being installed.
(151) Using Special Tools 8215 and 8216 Adaptor,
depress valve spring only enough to install rocker
arm (Fig. 40).
(152) Install rocker arm in original position (if
reused) over valve and lash adjuster. Release tension
on valve spring.
NOTE: Inspect rocker arm for proper engagement
into lash adjuster and valve tip.
(153) Repeat procedure for each rocker arm installed.
(154) Install camshafts
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are installed, DO NOT rotate the
camshafts or crankshaft without first locating the
proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will
result in valve and/or piston damage.
(155) Assemble camshaft chain on the cams. Ensure
that plated links are facing toward the front. Align
the plated links to the dot on the camshaft sprockets
(Fig. 25).
(156) If camshaft chain tensioner is already in the
compressed and locked position, proceed to step (4).
(157) When the camshaft chain tensioner is removed,
it is necessary to compress and lock the tensioner
using the following procedures:
(a) Place tensioner into a soft jaw vise (Fig. 24).
(b) SLOWLY compress tensioner until fabricated
lock pin or the equivalent can be inserted into the
locking holes.
(c) Remove compressed and locked tensioner
(158) Insert the compressed and locked camshaft
chain tensioner in-between the camshafts and chain.
(159) Rotate the cams so that the plated links and
dots are facing the 12:00 O’clock position (Fig. 25).
(160) Install cams to cylinder head. Ensure that
rocker arms are correctly seated and in proper positions.
(161) Install camshaft bearing caps. Ensure that
bearing caps are installed in same position as
removed.
(162) Tighten cam bearing cap bolts gradually in
sequence shown in (Fig. 22) to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
(163) Install secondary chain tensioner bolts and
tighten to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
(164) Remove locking pin from secondary tensioners.
(165) Measure camshafts end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
(166) Install the crank shaft sprocket
INSTALLATION - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
(167) Install crankshaft sprocket using Special Tools
6780-1 and 8179 (Fig. 124) until sprocket bottoms
against crankshaft step flange. Use care not to rotate
crankshaft.
(168) Verify that crankshaft sprocket is installed to
proper depth by measuring from sprocket outer face
to end of crankshaft (Fig. 125). Measurement should
read: 39.05 ±0.50 mm (1.5374 ±0.020 in.).
(169) Install primary timing chain.
(170) If removed, install right and left side short
chain guides (Fig. 118). Tighten attaching bolts to 28
N•m (250 in. lbs.).
(171) Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the
mark on oil pump housing (Fig. 120).
NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with
engine oil before installation.
(172) Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the
chain so that the timing mark is located in-between
the two (plated) timing links (Fig. 120).
(173) Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket
through the left cylinder head opening.
NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to
float on the camshaft hub during installation.
(174) Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket
over camshaft hub.
(175 Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark (Fig. 120).
(176) Position primary chain onto water pump drive
sprocket.
(177) Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to
the timing (plated) link on the timing chain (Fig.
120) and loosely position over camshaft hub.
(178) Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are
properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets
(Fig. 120).
(179) Install left side lower chain guide and tensioner
arm (Fig. 118). Tighten attaching bolts to 28
N•m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Inspect oil ring on chain guide access plug
before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.
(180) Install chain guide access plug to left side cylinder
head (Fig. 118). Tighten plug to 20 N•m (15 ft.
lbs.).
NOTE: To reset the primary timing chain tensioner,
engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner
(Fig. 121).
(14) Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using
the following procedure:
(a) Place the check ball end of tensioner into the
shallow end of Special Tool 8186 (Fig. 121).
(b) Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner
until oil is purged from tensioner (Fig. 121).
(181) Reset timing chain tensioner using the following
procedure:
(a) Position cylinder plunger into the deeper end
of Special Tool 8186 (Fig. 122).
(b) Apply a downward force until tensioner is
reset (Fig. 122).
NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner,
use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm
pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner’s
check ball.
CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset.
The tensioner body must bottom against the top
edge of Special Tool 8186. Failure to properly perform
the resetting procedure may cause tensioner
jamming.
(182) Install the timing chain cover
(183) Inspect and clean sealing surfaces. Inspect and
replace gasket and seal as necessary.
(184) If front crankshaft seal was bench installed,
place Special Tool 6780-2, Sleeve over crankshaft
nose to guide and protect seal lip.
(185) Before installing timing cover gasket apply a
1/8 inch bead of Mopart Engine RTV GEN II to the
parting lines between the oil pan and cylinder block
(Fig. 115).
(186) Install timing cover and gasket. Tighten M10
cover bolts to 54 N•m (40 ft. lbs.) and M6 bolts to 12
N•m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 114).
(187) If not previously performed, install crankshaft
oil seal using Special Tool 6780-2 sleeve and 6780-2
installer.
(188) Install lower intake manifold by the following method:
(189) Clean and inspect sealing surfaces of cylinder
head and manifold. Gaskets can be reused provided
they are free of cuts or tears.
(190) Position manifold on cylinder head surfaces.
NOTE: For ease of installing upper intake manifold,
install a bolt 2 – 3 turns to the rearmost attaching
hole of intake. This will properly position lower
manifold.
(191) Install fuel rail with injectors.
(192) Install manifold attaching bolts and tighten in
sequence shown in (Fig. 108) to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
Remove bolt used for aligning manifold.
(193) Connect the fuel injector electrical connectors.
NOTE: Make sure fuel injectors are located in the
correct location and position, as upper intake manifold
interference could occur.
(194) Install screw attaching fuel rail support
bracket to the throttle body support bracket.
(195) Connect fuel supply hose to fuel rail.
(196) Install crankshaft vibration damper
(197) Install damper using Special Tools 8179 Screw,
with Nut and Thrust Bearing from 6792, and 6792-1
Installer (Fig. 78).
(198) Install damper center bolt. Tighten center bolt
while holding the damper with Special Tool 8191 to
170 N•m (125 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 76).
(199) Install radiator fan.
(200) Install upper clip and fasteners (Fig. 24).
(201) Connect upper radiator hose to radiator.
(202) Connect fan motor electrical connector (Fig.
24).
(203) Install radiator upper crossmember by the following method:
(204) Place in position the upper radiator closure
panel.
(205) Connect hood latch cable to hood latch.
(206) Install bolts attaching upper radiator closure
panel. Check bolt alignment marks.
(207) Install bolts attaching the forward edge of
upper radiator closure panel.
(208) Install fasteners attaching upper bumper fascia.
(209) Install headlamp jackscrews both sides.
(210) Check hood latch operation

(211) Install accessory drive belts by the following method:
(212) Insert a 1/2” drive breaker bar into the square
opening on the tensioner. Hold counterclockwise pressure
on tensioner while removing the locking bolt
(Fig. 2).
(213) Carefully release spring load of the torsion
spring on the tensioner.
(214) Remove pivot bolt, tensioner, and spring from
front timing cover.
(215) Insert spring arm into the NEW belt position
on the tensioner (Fig. 4).
(216) Install torsion spring, tensioner, and pivot bolt.
(217) Install pivot bolt. Tighten only finger tight, at
(218) Using a 1/2” drive breaker bar, apply counterclockwise
pressure until locking bolt can be installed.
(219) Insert a 1/2” drive breaker bar into the square
opening on tensioner. Hold counterclockwise pressure
on tensioner, while removing tensioner locking bolt
(Fig. 2).
tensioner.
(220) Remove pivot bolt, tensioner, and spring from
front cover.
(221) Insert spring into the USED belt position on
tensioner bracket (Fig. 4).
(222) Install spring, tensioner bracket, and pivot bolt.
(223) Install pivot bolt. Tighten only finger tight, at
this time.
(224) Using a 1/2” drive breaker bar, apply counterclockwise
pressure until locking bolt can be installed.
(225) Install the USED belt by rotating tensioner
counterclockwise until belt can be installed on pulleys.
See (Fig. 5) for belt routing.
(226) Release tensioner and remove breaker bar. Belt
is automatically adjusted with the tensioner’s torsion
spring.
(227) Tighten tensioner locking bolt and pivot bolt
to 28 N•m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
(228) Install generator/power steering belt. Refer to
GENERATOR/POWER STEERING BELT INSTALLATION
(229) Install generator/power steering belt on pulleys.
(230) Tighten belt adjusting bolt to proper belt tension
(Fig. 1). (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - ADJUSTMENTS)
ADJUSTMENTS - BELT TENSION
Use belt tension gauge, Special Tool 7198 for conventional
V-belts and Poly-V belts. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - SPECIAL TOOLS).
Adjust the belt tension for NEW or USED belt tension
applications. Refer to BELT TENSION
CHART—2.7/3.5L ENGINES
(231) Tighten tensioner locking nut (Fig. 1).
(232) Install CYLINDER HEAD COVER
(233) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces.
Inspect and replace gaskets as necessary (Fig.
27).
(234) Install cylinder head covers and hand start all
fasteners. Verify that all double-ended studs are in
the correct locations as shown in (Fig. 26).
(235) Tighten cylinder head cover attaching bolts and
double-ended studs to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
(236) Connect all electrical connectors and harness
clips.
(237) Install ignition coil capacitors and fasteners.
(238) Install upper intake manifold.
(239) Clean and inspect sealing surfaces. Gaskets
can be reused, if free of cuts or tears.
NOTE: Make sure fuel injectors and wiring harnesses
are in correct position to not interfere with
upper manifold installation.
(240) Position upper manifold onto lower manifold
(Fig. 106).
(241) Install manifold attaching bolts and tighten in
sequence shown in (Fig. 107) to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.).
(242) Tighten upper fastener at throttle body support
bracket.
(243) Connect speed control servo, PCV (Fig. 105),
brake booster, and vapor purge hoses.
components:
² Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
² Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Sensor
² Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(244) Install throttle cable bracket.
(245) Connect throttle and speed control cables to
bracket and throttle arm by the following method:
(246) From the engine compartment, push the housing
end fitting into the dash panel grommet.
(247) Install the cable housing (throttle body end)
into the cable mounting bracket on the engine.
(248) From inside the vehicle, hold up the pedal and
install throttle cable and cable retainer in the upper
end of the pedal shaft (Fig. 1).
(249) At the dash panel, install the cable retainer
clip between the end of the throttle cable fitting and
grommet (Fig. 2).
(250) From the engine compartment, rotate the
throttle lever to wide open and install the throttle
cable.
(251) Install air inlet resonator and inlet tube. Connect
Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor connector.
(252) Connect negative cable to battery remote
jumper terminal.
(253) Install air cleaner housing and inlet hose.
(254) Connect negative cable.
(255) Change oil and filter
(256) Change thermostat

For thermostat replacement:
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 2.7L
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from remote jumper
terminal.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the engine oil dipstick and tube. To
prevent coolant from entering engine, cover the dipstick
tube opening in crankcase with a suitable plug.
(4) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(5) Support the engine and remove the left engine
mount (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/
LEFT MOUNT - REMOVAL).
LEFT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the isolator attaching nuts from top of
the mounting bracket (Fig. 80).
(3) Support the engine with a jack and a block of
wood across the full width of the oil pan.
(4) Remove the lower attaching nuts from the bottom
of the isolator to the frame (Fig. 80).
(5) Raise engine carefully with jack enough to
remove the isolator with heat shield from its mount.
(6) Remove generator support strut.
(7) Disconnect generator electrical connector.
(8) Remove the transaxle dipstick tube bracket
attaching bolt.
(9) Remove the lower heater hose tube bracket bolt.
(10) Remove the lower heater hose from thermostat
housing.
(11) Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat
housing.
(12) Remove thermostat housing bolts (Fig. 9).
(13) Remove thermostat and housing.

THERMOSTAT INSTALLATION
(1) Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
NOTE: Install thermostat with the bleed valve
located at the 12 o’clock position.
(2) Install thermostat and gasket into the thermostat
housing.
(3) Install thermostat and housing to cylinder
block. Tighten attaching bolts to 12 N•m (105 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 9).
(4) Connect the heater return and radiator lower
hoses to the thermostat housing. Install hose clamps.
(5) Install the heater hose tube bracket bolt.
(6) Install the transaxle dipstick tube bracket
attaching bolt.
(7) Install the generator support strut.
(8) Connect the generator electrical connector.
(9) Install the left engine mount (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/LEFT MOUNT -
INSTALLATION).

Refill coolant:
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
FILLING
WARNING: MAKE SURE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
IS COOL BEFORE REMOVING PRESSURE CAP OR
ANY HOSE. SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY MAY
RESULT FROM ESCAPING HOT COOLANT. THE
COOLING SYSTEM IS PRESSURIZED WHEN HOT.
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspect water
supply in cooling system. Use only a 50/50 mixture
of the specified ethylene glycol type antifreeze/coolant
and distilled water. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
(1) Close radiator draincock by turning the stem
clockwise to the 3:00 o’clock position. Hand tighten
only.
(2) Install engine block drain plugs, if removed.
WARNING: WHEN INSTALLING DRAIN HOSE TO AIR
BLEED VALVE, ROUTE HOSE AWAY FROM ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELTS, ACCESSORY DRIVE PULLEYS,
AND ELECTRIC COOLING FAN MOTORS.
(3) Attach one end of a 6.35 mm (0.250 in.) ID
clear hose that is approximately 1200 mm (48 in.)
long, to the bleed valve.
² Bleed Valve Location (2.7L): Located on the
water outlet connector at the front of engine (Fig. 5).
² Bleed Valve Location (3.5L): Located on the
lower intake manifold, left of center and below the
upper intake plenum (Fig. 5).
(4) Route hose away from the accessory drive belt,
drive pulleys and electric cooling fan. Place the other
end of hose into a clean container. The hose will prevent
coolant from contacting the accessory drive belt
when bleeding the system during the refilling operation
(Fig. 5).
(5) Open the cooling system bleed valve (Fig. 5).
(6) Attach Special Tool 8195, Filling Aid Funnel to
pressure bottle filler neck (Fig. 6).
(7) Use the supplied clip to pinch overflow hose
that connects between the two chambers of the coolant
bottle (Fig. 6).
(8) Pour a 50/50 mix of Mopart Antifreeze/Coolant,
5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula and distilled water into
the larger section of Filling Aid Funnel (the smaller
section of funnel is to allow air to escape). For system
capacity, (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE
- SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES).
(9) Slowly fill the cooling system until a steady
stream of coolant flows from the hose attached to the
bleed valve (Fig. 5).
(10) Close the bleed valve and continue filling system
to the top of the Filling Funnel.
(11) Remove clip from overflow hose (Fig. 6).
(12) Allow the coolant in Filling Funnel to drain
into overflow chamber of the pressure bottle.
(13) Remove Special Tool 8195, Filling Aid Funnel.
Install cap on coolant pressure bottle.
(14) Remove hose from bleed valve.
(15) Start engine and run until it reaches operating
temperature.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any
remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an
hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant
level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the
engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant
into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this
coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system
ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE
BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the
vacuum path between the two bottle sections and
the coolant will not return to cooling system.
(16) Shut off engine allow it to cool down. This
permits coolant to be drawn into the pressure chamber.
(17) With engine COLD, observe coolant level in
pressure chamber. Coolant level should be within
MIN and MAX marks. Adjust coolant level as necessary.
NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. Coolant
will normally only be in the inboard (smaller) of
the two. The outboard chamber is only to recover
coolant in the event of an overheat or after a recent
service fill. The outboard chamber should normally
be empty. If there is coolant in the overflow side of
the coolant bottle (after several warm/cold cycles of
the engine) and coolant level is within MIN and MAX
marks, disconnect the end of the overflow hose at
the fill neck and lower it into a clean container.
Allow coolant to drain into the container until emptied.
Reconnect overflow hose to fill neck.
 

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310 Posts
Just one more reason why the 2.7 liter is an engineering nightmare. Long live 3.3!!!
 

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2,576 Posts
I'm at about 125K miles, and have yet to do any of that stuff. Car feels fine. I'm waiting for it to die so I can justify getting a new Charger :D
 

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For those who don't have the time or experience to do a job like this I would reccomend buying an extended warrenty. These parts of the engine are not supposed to replaced according to the schedule in our owners manual. www.carchex.com and www.aaautowarranty.com offer and additional 5 year or additioanal 100,000 mile power train warranty (whichever comes first) for less than $900. It will cover the entire engine and transmission. Even pays for towing and car rental if needed. Knowing the history of these 2.7l engines its well worth getting this extended warrenty. I am sure my 2.7l will die before reaching 200k miles and the warranty should cover the engine replacement as long as you show proof of changing oil every 4000 miles.
 
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