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Discussion Starter #1
I can get to 5 out of 6

The one on the drivers side nearest the windshield
has multiple tubes over it...

One says brake vacume...

another shoots to a t and goes over to a chrome and black round canister in front of the fuse box...Cruise control?

Can I remove these...I tried a gentle pull but they are on tight...

Would I mess anything up disconnecting them...it looks like they have to go to get to the plug....

Help...
 

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Weird.......my 3.5 plugs were all 100% identical.
 

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jimtesla said:
The one on the drivers side nearest the windshield
has multiple tubes over it...
I had that exact same problem Jim.
I somehow managed to "sneak" my spark plug socket in there and removed that sucker out of there. I don't see why it would be a problem to remove the lines. Just as long as you reinstall them as you took them off.
 

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You can just remove the brake booster hose by giving it a few pushes/turns sideways (to loosen) and then it should pull right out. As for the T, just undo the thingie holding it together and you should have enough room to get to the coil.
 

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I was able to just gently push things aside and get the coil out of the way and remove/install the plug without disconnecting anything. I've learned the hard way over the years not to disconnect plastic connections unless absolutely necessary - stuff gets way too brittle and weak after 4 or 5 years, and I usually end up regretting trying to take the "easy" way (i.e., something always breaks).
 

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lbis4123 said:
just unplug them, they are just vacuum lines, a little twist and pull and they will come off. no biggie dont worry about breaking them.
I agree with In2Deep that they are some of the easiest plugs to change. Do you not find that vaccum hoses in the engine compartment can be very difficult to get apart (from rubber tees and other fittings) after they have a some age on them? I was forced to separate some of them when I replaced the coolant outlet housing (air bleeder thingy - required partial removal of intake plenum), and once again ended up breaking a semi-rigid plastic tube (however, no problem splicing back together with a short length of rubber hose).
 

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peva said:
I agree with In2Deep that they are some of the easiest plugs to change. Do you not find that vaccum hoses in the engine compartment can be very difficult to get apart (from rubber tees and other fittings) after they have a some age on them? I was forced to separate some of them when I replaced the coolant outlet housing (air bleeder thingy - required partial removal of intake plenum), and once again ended up breaking a semi-rigid plastic tube (however, no problem splicing back together with a short length of rubber hose).
damn that sucks. mine were pretty well stuck on there but with alot of twisting with some pliers does the trick before you start pulling on there. both the plastic and the hose sort of "mate" together and the only way to break that free is by twisting. you do have to be careful though but its not hard.
 

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lbis4123 said:
damn that sucks. mine were pretty well stuck on there but with alot of twisting with some pliers does the trick before you start pulling on there. both the plastic and the hose sort of "mate" together and the only way to break that free is by twisting. you do have to be careful though but its not hard.
I guess I just didn't twist them enough or was afraid of crushing them with the pliers. I will remember that for the future.
 

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In2Deep said:
Yeah...it's that little "crackling" sound as the plastic breaks inside the tubing. lol! :biggrin:
Kinda like that West Virginia method of properly torqueing a bolt: "Tighten until it strips, then back off 1/4 of a turn." :)
 

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How to get a hose off a plastic nipple . . .

I was given this trick for the exact problem the OP was facing. The last spark plug on my 2.7 was blocked by hoses and I thought I might break the plastic nipple.

Get yourself one of those metal picks, sometimes they're sold as a scribe. They look like a dental tool with a right-angle to a sharp point on one end, and a straight point on the other. Work the pick in - the right-angle side works best - between the hose and the nipple.

Use the pick like a crowbar to slightly separate the hose from the plastic nipple and spay some silicone spray into the void. Let it sit for a while, then do the same on the opposite side of the nipple. If you did the left first, then do the right, or top first, then bottom. It will come easy, but it is important to let it sit for a couple of minutes after you spray the silicone lubricant.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cannoda said:
Use the pick like a crowbar to slightly separate the hose from the plastic nipple and spay some silicone spray into the void. Let it sit for a while, then do the same on the opposite side of the nipple. If you did the left first, then do the right, or top first, then bottom. It will come easy, but it is important to let it sit for a couple of minutes after you spray the silicone lubricant.
Thats waht I am going to try..

I got two quotes from the dealers and the cheapest was 189.00 just to replace the spark plugs...another dealer said 290....You have to replace the wires...He said...

I say I am doing it myself.....After my Vegas run today........

Thanks for the replys
 

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Newsflash, there are no wires to change. Whoever told you that is trying to rip you off. $200 to do plugs, thats insane!!! They're the easiest plugs I've ever changed. Yes the last one on the driver's side is tricky but I managed to remove one vacuum hose from the tee and twist the coil out and sneak the socket and extention in there. Don't get ripped at the dealer, do it yourself!!! Call that dealer back and ask them to show you what wires need to be replaced because the ignition on these is a coil over design with no plug wires whatsoever. I did my plugs in half an hour.
 
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