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Discussion Starter #1
Group, i recently got some spyder headlights from ben (predatoryrtrep). and im liking the projector low beams with the H.I.D.'s. but the high beams are a joke. Because i like the look of the spyders, but the light output is so terrible, I'm going do something about it. heres my idea.



Heres a picture of the stock spyder headlights.



my thought is to cut the inner portion of the reflector (as seen by the orange line) and keep it in place.
then remove the reflector portion from around the bulb completely, with the bulb. ( represented by the blue circle)




once that has been done, retrofit a projector inside the halo, much like the low beam projector setup. for this i was going to use a projector from a 2G LHS high beam, but its hard for me to get a hold of these and im not sure they will fit, i have decided to use 1G LHS projectors. ( to test my theory) or from a 90's model lexus.
if it works out well i will upgrade to better projectors

these projectors :



or these


for a completed look hopefully like this...


 

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It's not a bad idea. For a strictly high-beam projector I probably wouldn't want to be using HID's because you switch them on and off often. A better proposition would be bi-xenon projector. Also, while you're in the headlight I would try to modify the standard projector that's in there to fix the cut-off.
 

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High beam or low beam - if you switch on the highs, the lows cut out, and then back on when you turn them off - honestly, High beams get used less and switched less than lows do... So either way, if you have HIDs in either spot, they get switching abuse...

or is it the length of time they are on with each switch (rapid cycling)?
 

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High beam or low beam - if you switch on the highs, the lows cut out, and then back on when you turn them off - honestly, High beams get used less and switched less than lows do... So either way, if you have HIDs in either spot, they get switching abuse...

or is it the length of time they are on with each switch (rapid cycling)?
On the second gen, the low beam doesn't turn off when you put the high beams on. That is, unless you mess with the wiring.
 

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Interesting - I rarely see a car now days that leaves the low beams on - but, I guess it has to do with the low beams being separate lamps in the light housing... First gen Intrepids are single lamps, so they shut off the low beams. I guess I think back about the Ford LTD, Chevy Caprice, etc - they all left the low beams on when running the highs.

Good point.

I wonder - and maybe a topic for a separate thread in the future, if there are US Spec first gen (LHS?) with dual bulb lights, and where the difference is in the wiring controls (probably in the relay block), and if the harness could be swapped into an Intrepid.

In any case, yes - having high beams as HID bulbs may not be a great idea, and may need to re-think when you use high beams - such as making sure you only use them on long empty roads - not because of other drivers having issues, but because of wear of the bulb and ballast.
 

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Interesting - I rarely see a car now days that leaves the low beams on - but, I guess it has to do with the low beams being separate lamps in the light housing... First gen Intrepids are single lamps, so they shut off the low beams. I guess I think back about the Ford LTD, Chevy Caprice, etc - they all left the low beams on when running the highs.

Good point.

I wonder - and maybe a topic for a separate thread in the future, if there are US Spec first gen (LHS?) with dual bulb lights, and where the difference is in the wiring controls (probably in the relay block), and if the harness could be swapped into an Intrepid.

In any case, yes - having high beams as HID bulbs may not be a great idea, and may need to re-think when you use high beams - such as making sure you only use them on long empty roads - not because of other drivers having issues, but because of wear of the bulb and ballast.
Only First Gen with Dual Bulbs was the euro spec Eagle Vision. I still need to make minor repairs on the set I have (prolly only ones in the US) Far as wiring, I have yet to find a Euro Specific wiring diagram. However they prolly just spit the wiring and had two separate grounds but same main wiring for the lights.

They also had electric leveling for the housings. However without proper schematics, I have no clue how to wire it up even though I also have the headlight switch controller.

And for what it is worth, I projector lenses will do nothing unless the reflector is design to reflect the light in a particular way towards it. Something about Focal point I recall.
 

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The idea of adding projector lenses is that you retrofit in the whole projector housing - bulb holder and all.

The Euro-spec Vision - if you just split the wiring, etc, that means your low beams will shut off still when high's are used, unless you correct for that in your splitting. Re-wire at the relay is probably a better choice. Wasn't the first gen LHS a projector housing headlight? Wouldn't it have had separate lows and highs?
 

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Doing the project that I never had a chance to get started. Wish you the best of luck on it man. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
sorry I should have been more specific, I don't plan on using H.I.D's for the high beams. and of course I would mount the whole projector housing. I should be getting started on this soon. any tips for removing the outer lens from the headlight?
 

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The LHS had the fog light (H3) in the headlight housing. I do not know if they make H3 size H.I.D. I know there is a math to having the bulb at a certain place, height/depth with the reflector to create the correct beam to focus through the lenses.

Far as keeping the lows on with the highs, I would not be worried about that really.
 

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Heat to 160* in an oven for 5 minutes or so, then start prying open. Repeat until you get it apart. Just be careful with everything and don't touch the chrome if you can.
 

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i tried taking a trep headlight assembly apart, resulted in broken reflector. be super careful, dont stab yourself, and be super patient.
 

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i tried taking a trep headlight assembly apart, resulted in broken reflector. be super careful, dont stab yourself, and be super patient.
That's the factory headlights most likely, yes those are a HUGE PIA to separate. Aftermarket headlights are like the M headlights, nice and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
update. i got the 1G LHS projectors installed. the light output wasnt that great so im getting different projectors tomorrow. also probably because i didnt have the shroud because its a part of the 1G headlight.
i figured the light output wasnt good because it was not set-up for high-beam use. so im getting projectors out of a 2001 kia optima tomorrow, they are used for high-beams and should have a better pattern. heres some pics of what ive been doing so far.






this is the 1G LHS projector cut-off

 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
side note: the light smear above the cut-off in the spyders is caused by this.




a little piece of aluminum thats slightly butterfly shaped attatched to the cut-off plate. it simply un-screws and re-install the screw. then its fixed, atleast on mine.
 

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I think you're one of the first to have opened a set of Trep Spyder lights. It's interesting that it's that little piece causing all the grief. It the projector world, they call that a squirrel finder because it is meant to deflect some light above the cut-off so you read signs better at night. Also, you can see why the low beam projector is so terrible, half the reflector bowl is black plastic. It wouldn't be too hard to retrofit a good projector in there. If I were to go to those lights I'd get some good bi-xenon's in there and call it a day.
 
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