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Discussion Starter #1
My turn key and just click situation is getting a little worse. Fortunately even though it took 5 key turns to get it to do more than click today, it did start and got me home. Cycling through the gears on the transmission when it didn't want to start seemed to make no difference.

Since then its worked several times of course so my slow exact diagnosis is going to be even slower.

It looks pretty tight in there but I thought it looked possible to do w/o dropping the exhaust or lifting the motor. My MarkVIII's starter and oil filter are tight but doable. The oil filter adapter plate gasket on that thing I'd prefer to never do again lol.

How difficult is the Intrepid's 2.7's starter to get off really? The manual makes it seem not so bad. Just the extra step of jacking up the engine a bit. How much of a lift w/o undoing motor mounts can I get? Does it work like I'm used to with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan? Is it really that easy? I appreciate any advice.
 

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Personally, I don't know how to change the starter on a 2.7. I do know that replacing the starter on my 3.5 was pretty easy, except for the rust on the nut that holds the positive wire. I do suggest cleaning the connections of the positive jump post first. They may be corroded. I think if you do need to change the starter, then you should just jack the car up and see if there is any room in there without having to take the engine mount out.
 

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if i remember right, there is a starter relay in the engine bay power distribution box.
long shot, but it might be that.
flip relays around to test.
horn relay is seldom used and should be good to test with.
 

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How did your starter issue work out? The 2.7 starter is a challenge to get to but doable. I would pull the passenger side headlight and airbox and check the terminals on the battery first.
The battery cables on my 2004 were a little worn and loose when I did the water pump. (Thanks to this forum) I cleaned , tightened and coated them with a little battery terminal protector.
 

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Replace the starter on a 2.7 is not very difficult actually it took me about an hour to get it done the only problem is the heat shield you must remove it first before you can actually remove any bolts the heat shield have two fasteners and a nut they are 8mm and a 10mm so there is only one fastener you can’t see because is in the top part of the starter in between the manifold and the starter you can actually feel it with the fingers and the only way to get it out is with a 8mm ratchet wrench the battery cable is another inconvenient because the wire is just exact length so you don’t have a lot of slack to play with it even if you loose some of the brackets behind the engine still it doesn’t move much and the signal wire is easy but you have to be careful not to break the clip since there is no room for this kind of mistake to fix it . For the 2 big bolts if I am not wrong they are 13mm or 15mm you must use short socket six point and a bout 24 inch extension with a wobble head or a swivel adapter the reason for this is because the bolts are set in 2 different ways the top bolt seats facing to the front bumper and the bottom face to the driver for the driver you don’t need a long extension once you have them loose the starter just slides out without any problem. I always recommend set the bolts during the installation by hand at the beginning and then use a electric ratchet if you have one the reason is because it reduces the disassembly and reassembly process in less time and less frustration .
 

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There may be a starter relay in the engine compartment power distribution box long throw, but it may be. You have to turn the relays to test them. The horn relay is rarely used.
 
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