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You're welcome. Thanks for letting us know your appreciation.

It's known that you will drip a couple or three additional quarts if you let it sit a few hours with the pan off - see below chart from the FSM to get some idea of difference between quick pan R&R and several hours drip. Of course you need to check fluid level per procedure and adjust level for proper reading on Mr. Dipstick.

Same tranny for all engines (tranny-to-diff transfer chain sprocket sizes vary with some options, but tranny hardware and tranny fluid and diff gear oil capacities not affected.)


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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Again, a thousands thanks for your knowledge and wisdom. I drove it just now for 3.5 miles (trip odometer) to bring it up to temp. Temp gauge stopped right at normal, a little under half. But, when I stopped in our "driveway" I noticed it was steaming and hissing from under the hood. At first I wasn't sure what I was seeing and hearing when I got out so I grabbed my trusty fire extinguisher from the pass side just in case. But when it slowed down (the hissing and steam) fairly quickly I opened the hood to find water steaming out of the reservoir from an orifice I didn't know existed.
Near the left reservoir mount bolt there a "boss", if you will, that has a hole in it that blows steam out in case of over pressure. Mind you, it never went above "normal" on the temp gauge even when parked. I don't even know when it started. But I can only guess that because there's only straight water in it for now, combined with the fact that these engines run hotter than many, that it was just the water overheating. I'll know for sure after I get a decent coolant mix in it.
At least it provided a decent pressure test for the hoses.
Thanks to ALL
Aerofxr
 

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your cap might be weak if it's venting.
even with water, our systems are 15? 16? lbs.
even water shouldn't boil at that pressure for our engine temps.
unless a little overfull and still leveling.
 

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Just to go into a little more detail, our caps are rated at 16psi (factory original); Chrysler replacement caps are rated at 17psi (nominal ratings - of course, everything has a tolerance). As you said, the cap may be weak, OR the cap's rubber seal may be old and cracked and not sealing against the reservoir's opening, so zero or close to zero pressure, in which case you will get flash steam with violent expansion at normal operating temps.

Here's boiling point of H2O for different pressures:
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That vent hole is not just to let water/steam jet out, but mostly is to allow more casual back-and-forth equalization exchange of water between the overflow compartment of the reservoir and the engine coolant passages without being impeded by pressure or vacuum buildup in the overflow chamber as things heat up and cool down (cap acts as check valve allowing flow into overflow chamber at 17psi if overfull/over pressure, flow under vacuum back out of overflow chamber into engine as engine cools off if there's a leak/loss of coolant that needs to be made up for).
 

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Again, a thousands thanks for your knowledge and wisdom. I drove it just now for 3.5 miles (trip odometer) to bring it up to temp. Temp gauge stopped right at normal, a little under half. But, when I stopped in our "driveway" I noticed it was steaming and hissing from under the hood. At first I wasn't sure what I was seeing and hearing when I got out so I grabbed my trusty fire extinguisher from the pass side just in case. But when it slowed down (the hissing and steam) fairly quickly I opened the hood to find water steaming out of the reservoir from an orifice I didn't know existed.
Near the left reservoir mount bolt there a "boss", if you will, that has a hole in it that blows steam out in case of over pressure. Mind you, it never went above "normal" on the temp gauge even when parked. I don't even know when it started. But I can only guess that because there's only straight water in it for now, combined with the fact that these engines run hotter than many, that it was just the water overheating. I'll know for sure after I get a decent coolant mix in it.
At least it provided a decent pressure test for the hoses.
Thanks to ALL
Aerofxr
the normal operating temp for the thermostat is 195. so plain water would boil very quickly even with fans on high without the pump to keep it moving. Put coolant in it! LOL
 

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the normal operating temp for the thermostat is 195. so plain water would boil very quickly even with fans on high without the pump to keep it moving. Put coolant in it! LOL
Agree with putting the proper 50/50 mixture in, but see the H2O pressure-boiling point table.
 
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