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Discussion Starter #1
[ Just figured out its in the wrong forum, Sorry! Please move to General Discussion. Thanks ]

Hey guys,

(Back Story: I've had a steering issue where at various speeds, the car will steer awkwardly, as well as vibrate/grind in the front end when going approx. 60+ mph. This is unrelated to the brake rotors, because they replaced the entire front brake system before I picked up the car (Feb.9). Also I have recently noticed a little squeak at slower speeds, such as parking lot speeds (5-15 mph). I have taken it to the dealer twice with no help, just basically denying the problem. I will have it looked at within the week.)

Some of you may know i've had some problems with my front suspension. I've heard all sorts of opinions, my brother (sears automotive manager) says it could be a wheel bearing, others say it could be a bad tire belt, and yet others say it could be a bushing or tie rod end. Well currently what I would like to know is what I can do. I want to take the car to Sears Automotive whenI have a little cash i can kick around, and have them do a good solid check on the brakes, alignment, front end, tires, everything. When they find the problem(s), which I know they will (talking about the same guy that knew I had a clogged brake hose as soon as the car was off the ground lol), am I right to go to the dealer and demand they fix the problem free of charge? The car is currently out of both its original warranty and its used car warranty, but I have taken the car to the dealers service center twice, once for the window regulator (free) and this problem, and the second time for just this problem. The first time they say there is no problem. The second time they drive with me and say there is a problem but its too "slight" to fix. Brother says they are BSing to get out of repairing it. I say if it is something serious like a steering issue, they NEED to fix it before something happens. The car is steering really weird and I feel like i'm being pushed from side to side. Also the car turns VERY abruptly to the right at highway speeds, with just barely letting go of the wheel. It HAS to be something with the suspension, and I'd love to have the problem solved before I do any brake upgrades or wheel upgrades. Am I right in demanding they fix it for free even after my warranty expired? Technically if I already showed them the problem twice, is it fair for them to repair it for free? Should I accept anything less? Any other thoughts? I honestly don't feel safe driving the car as it is, and its only going to get worse, as with most car problems.

Josiah
 

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IF this problem was documented when it the car was under warranty, you have a shot. and you will need written documentation of what you stated was wrong to the service advisor and their denial of a problem. then you will probably need another mechanic (ie Sears) to document that it was a problem from the git-go. Then you get to take them to small claims court. before the small claims court you might get in contact w/ the regional manager of the dealership, he might be able to lean on them for you if you make a loud enough squawk. Good Luck.

Whatever you do, do not drive this car until it is fixed!! you are just asking to lose your steering and wipe out a busload of children or nuns or at the very least get towed home with a dire need of a pants change.

AJ
 

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JLWX5 said:
Hey guys,

(Back Story: I've had a steering issue where at various speeds, the car will steer awkwardly, as well as vibrate/grind in the front end when going approx. 60+ mph.
That sounds a lot like a bad wheel bearing.
JLWX5 said:
Also I have recently noticed a little squeak at slower speeds, such as parking lot speeds (5-15 mph). I have taken it to the dealer twice with no help, just basically denying the problem. I will have it looked at within the week.)
Haven't known a wheel bearing to make a squeak, but rotted bushings will squeak because they dry rot.


JLWX5 said:
am I right to go to the dealer and demand they fix the problem free of charge? The car is currently out of both its original warranty and its used car warranty, but I have taken the car to the dealers service center twice, once for the window regulator (free) and this problem, and the second time for just this problem. The first time they say there is no problem. The second time they drive with me and say there is a problem but its too "slight" to fix. Brother says they are BSing to get out of repairing it. I say if it is something serious like a steering issue, they NEED to fix it before something happens. The car is steering really weird and I feel like i'm being pushed from side to side. Also the car turns VERY abruptly to the right at highway speeds, with just barely letting go of the wheel. It HAS to be something with the suspension, and I'd love to have the problem solved before I do any brake upgrades or wheel upgrades. Am I right in demanding they fix it for free even after my warranty expired? Technically if I already showed them the problem twice, is it fair for them to repair it for free? Should I accept anything less? Any other thoughts? I honestly don't feel safe driving the car as it is, and its only going to get worse, as with most car problems.

Josiah
Have you documented the issues you are having with the car and the times you've brought it back for service? Don't wait any longer and contact the DMV and file a formal complaint. Depending on how long its been since you bought it, it may still fall under the "Lemon Law". Also, if its a safety related issue and they haven't bothered to fix it, the DMV would like to hear about it. They can persuade the stealership to fix it. I had similar run-ins with a dealer in Utica. Eventually I had to file a complaint with the DMV. I waited too long so I couldn't get reimbursed for the repairs I had done at a garage I trust, but the stealership was cited for not properly inspecting the car (the e-brake seized the day after picking the car up) and for not repairing a potential fire hazard (the valve cover gasket was leaking onto the exhaust manifold).

BTW, the issue that really was the last straw, were both front wheel bearings were shot with only 5000 miles put on the car after buying it a year prior. they were bad when we bought it. I wanted the stealership to align it and balance the tires because of a shake on the highway. They claimed they did, but if they did they would have found out the bearings were shot.

Edit* Just to make it clear, my trep isn't the car I'm refering to with the issues. My wife's '98 Sebring (which we just got rid of in January) was the POS that the stealership tried to rip us on.
 

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i would start by replacing the inner tie rod bushings as they are the cheapest and you can do it yourself over the weekend (so ive read) then start moving down the list replacing those other items you noted. really with and 01 with 80k+ tie rod ends and wheel bearings on this car are not a bad idea. while your at it do the whole front bushing kit....id let go of the whole warranty issue, my feeling is you beating a dead horse now....dont take you car to sears or the stealership to have the work done. save some cash. by the parts yourself and take them to a mechanic and strike a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't know where you got 80k from but I just turned over 38000. I'm going to take it the sears and get it looked at through my connections, and have a solid base to work from there. Mitch there has been working on cars his whole life and hes the only person i trust to look at my car. And I have to respect a man who drives a Bullitt package mustang lol.

Theres no way I'm garaging this car until its fixed. I have to drive 40 miles a day and i'm not walking or taking a cab.

On payday i'll take it to Sears and then call the dealer with the diagnosis and kindly request he fix what they refused to fix before. If it was a pre-existing problem why shouldn't I ask that they fix it free of charge?

Josiah
 

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JLWX5 said:
I don't know where you got 80k from but I just turned over 38000. I'm going to take it the sears and get it looked at through my connections, and have a solid base to work from there. Mitch there has been working on cars his whole life and hes the only person i trust to look at my car.
Maybe he was looking at my sig. I've got 80K on mine. Actually it'll be 82K later this afternoon.
You're on the right track by taking it to someone you know and trust. We took the Sebring back to the stealership several times for them to right their wrongs while it was under warranty. After that, **** them, it was to the local shop that we've been dealing with for a number of years and absolutely trust. That reminds me, I gotta call them and get a price on tires and get my car inspected by the end of May.

Yeah **** the stealership. Even if you end up having pay for it yourself, you sleep better knowing who worked on your car the RIGHT way.


JLWX5 said:
On payday i'll take it to Sears and then call the dealer with the diagnosis and kindly request he fix what they refused to fix before. If it was a pre-existing problem why shouldn't I ask that they fix it free of charge?

Josiah
You can try, and good luck on that, but depending on how long ago you got the car, you might not get anywhere with it. Sometimes its tough to prove a pre-existing condition. That's why I said to get the DMV involved to investigate it. They have a little bit more authority than you or I.

JLWX5 said:
And I have to respect a man who drives a Bullitt package mustang lol.
Amen to that!

Pic of my '92 GT that was totalled in '97:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I might as well just have sears fix whatever it is, to save me some hassles. Especially since I don't want to take that long of a drive with this happening. Its about an hours drive to get to the dealer, so I might as well take the 10 minute drive to sears and have them fix it. My brother wouldn't let anyone screw me over on service up there. And if I make sure mitch works on it it will be done right the first time. Thanks for all the advice.

Josiah
 

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JLWX5 said:
And if I make sure mitch works on it it will be done right the first time.
Can't put a price on "peace of mind". Even if it costs a little more to have your friend do the work, knowing you can trust him is priceless.
 

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add lower control arm/ ball joint to the list of stuff for your trusted mechanic to check.
 
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