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First of all this is my first posting on this site so hello all of you! I really like the stuff that I have read here, you people really love your rides just like me.
I am looking to install a tight system in my trep and I have a few q's for all.
1. I've heard that the rear deck and the trunk lid have a tendency to rattle like hell once you get some serious sound moving through. Is this true and if it is have we all tried Dynamat and the like to see if still rattles or if it helps? I hope it does.
2. My second bible (crutchfield) which I only use for some specs and such, says that the doors will accomodate only a 4". What the hell is a 4" gonna do? I want to throw in 5 1/4" components. Has anyone done this and if you did, did you have to trim any material to get the speaker to fit? How did you det the grille covers off without bending the crap out of them?
3. Maybe it is just me, but around 45mph and on up, road noise starts to get to me. I want to use Dynamat like stuff (the real sh*t is way overpriced) and deaden all my doors. Is it farily easy to take the door panels off to access the inside skeleton to put down the sheets?
4. Finally, I have also heard that the trunk will eat the sound from your subs for lunch if you don't put ports or cut-outs in the rear deck or something. Now I want to be a little more classy than that. What I want to do is face the subs to fire to the front of the car and put like a port in behind the fold down arm rest in the rear seat. Now you see it now you don't. I was wondering if anyone has done this yet either or tried any projects of similar nature.
I have a 95 trep es with the stock ifinity system...not for long though. Let me know what you think! Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Jeff :cool:
 

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Reguarding the door speakers, mine fits 5.25" speakers just fine without cutting anything.
 

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Believe it or not the doors (at least on my concorde) are pretty well insulated from sound. If you pop off the speaker grill you'll notice a 5.25, and if you pull that out you'll see quite a bit of foam in the door. You could try buying poly-fill which is what they use in pillows and sometimes in sub boxes. You can get it at any craft/art supply store, it's pretty cheap.

Now I'm not sure if you have a first gen or second gen. But I know on the first gen's the problem of road noise tends to come from wind noise. Check the area where the doors meet the body and if you have large gaps you may want to add weather stripping from Home Depot to the backs of the doors to reduce air turbulence. And finally try checking the area in the trunk where the fenders are. Pull back the carpeting and if it's bare metal, which it probably is, you can insulate that with poly-fill too.

I'm planning on doing all of these things eventually too. The wind noise in my car is pretty bad. If anyone is interested in a how-to, I'll post it when I do it. But it's pretty straightforward.
 

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1. I've heard that the rear deck and the trunk lid have a tendency to rattle like hell once you get some serious sound moving through. Is this true and if it is have we all tried Dynamat and the like to see if still rattles or if it helps? I hope it does.


The trunk lid does rattle with subs in it. I've got a pair of Kenwoods in the trunk in a ported box, and they rattle the hell outa the trunk lid, and the rear-deck (which is from loose wires for the 6x9's and the brake light). I cured all of it by using some sound deadering mat made by Stinger. Cheaper than dynamat. I didn't do the whole trunk or lid, just the trouble spots, and it's been great!

2. My second bible (crutchfield) which I only use for some specs and such, says that the doors will accomodate only a 4". What the hell is a 4" gonna do? I want to throw in 5 1/4" components. Has anyone done this and if you did, did you have to trim any material to get the speaker to fit? How did you det the grille covers off without bending the crap out of them?

The speakers will fit withoud modification. If you notice, when you buy 4" speakers from crutchfield, they send you a plastic bracket to put in the door to hold the speakers. That bracket is actually a 5.25" template, so you can easily put a speaker of that size in the door. The grill covers come off without effort, as you only need to take a small screwdriver and pry slightly around the edges to get them to pop out.

3. Maybe it is just me, but around 45mph and on up, road noise starts to get to me. I want to use Dynamat like stuff (the real sh*t is way overpriced) and deaden all my doors. Is it farily easy to take the door panels off to access the inside skeleton to put down the sheets?

Don't really have this problem, either, but if you want to, use the yellow foam in a can for this. I've seen some avenger guys from ASOG do it and it works incredibly well.

4. Finally, I have also heard that the trunk will eat the sound from your subs for lunch if you don't put ports or cut-outs in the rear deck or something. Now I want to be a little more classy than that. What I want to do is face the subs to fire to the front of the car and put like a port in behind the fold down arm rest in the rear seat. Now you see it now you don't. I was wondering if anyone has done this yet either or tried any projects of similar nature.

Check out some of the Intrepids on SoundDomain.com. One guy did what you described, and it works pretty well. I personally have not done this as I don't believe the trunk lid kills as much of the sounds believed. Also, you may find better sound quality out of your subs by having them face the rear. I tested one time and found the bass to be more punchy, but not as loud when the subs face the front of the car. When they're turned around, it's less punchy, but has a greater boom to it. Go with your preferences.
 

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about the rear deck killing the bass..it is true...if you dont' wanna have more than one person in your car at a time just do what I did and remove the back seat...it helps to quiet the rattling by letting the sound pressure into the rest of the car, it sounds a lot cleaner and not muffled. if you are like me and like a lot of boom then takin out the seat is perfect.

really easy to do to. on the part where you put your butt, there are two screws that are real easy to get to. you pop them out and then you can get to the back rest and pull them two screws out and voila! louder cleaner rattless bass.

I have done some decorating in the back...a little bit of neon here a little there ya know...the metal that seperates the seat area from the trunk has nice holes in it that just barely fit an extra pair of infinity kappa 5 1/4's for a little extra high end.

well do it if you want...I did and loved it..
 

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I have 6 inch MB Quart separates in the doors and they went in with minimal cuting with a dremel tool, big difference in sound from a 6 inch over a 5.25. I dont have as much rattling in the back because my subs are firing down, I put foam weather striping on the license plate frame so it would not rattle. The trunks on these cars are pretty tight, so I cut out the back of the arm rest in the back seat to port the subs, and the bass comes thru nicely. It is good to have a separate bass control though.

BTW, Welcome to the Forums

Charles

[ January 29, 2002: Message edited by: MathWiz ]
 

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My rear deck rattled like hell when I put my JL 6X9's in. Sooo, instead of spending a fortune on dynamat, I took of the decklid cover and put a wooden brace underneath the deck inside the trunk (basically a thick piece of plywood that runs between the two speakers) and bolted it to the rear deck in several places. Then, I put some old shirts and socks on top of the rear deck (enough to make it full when you put the cover on) and then just re-installed the cover. It used to rattle like hell now, and it hasn't made a sound since. And it cost me nothing to do, as well!
 
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