DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have some issues with my suspension. Today I was coming back to work after getting lunch at the McDonald’s nearby. After entering the parking lot, I noticed a loud scraping sound. I at first thought my wheel had somehow not been torqued and it was becoming loose. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the bottom of the strut assembly was rubbing on the top of my tire. The scraping was the rocks sticking to the hot rubber. I limped it into a bay and discovered the strut is of at an angle yet it’s attached at both ends securely. I ended up leaving my car at work since I didn’t feel comfortable going over 5 mph.

I have a feeling I need some new struts but I wanted to get a 2nd opinion. And if it is the strut (or another part) what is a good brand that is cost effective but also performs like the OEM part?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
Hard to visualize without a photo. The way you describe it, it's like one of the two bolts that attaches the strut to the top of the knuckle has broken or fallen out, causing an extreme camber issue. Is bearing/hub intact and fully attached to the knuckle?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ronbo

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
It looks like Yevrah is correct: The lower spring support has rusted and detached from the body of the strut. You can see the severe rust where the spring supprt used to join the strut, plus you can see shiny metal on the underside of the spring support where the tire has rubbed it. Study your 1st, 2nd, and 3rd photos.
 
  • Like
Reactions: yevrah

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
Cropped from your photos:

1st photo - Severe rust (upper arrow) & tire rub (lower arrow):
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Tire


2nd photo - Tire rub:
Automotive tire Gas Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper



3rd photo - Lower spring support rusted, detached, and dropped down:
Automotive tire Light Wood Bumper Gas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,022 Posts
as peva said, your perch is sitting at steep angle to the back.
and you can see where it used to be attached on the strut.
gonna need a new strut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
as peva said, your perch is sitting at steep angle to the back.
and you can see where it used to be attached on the strut.
gonna need a new strut.
Ok. Thankfully that’s not a super hard job so I think I’ll definitely get the 2 front ones changed to start. Thanks for the advice and the info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok. Thankfully that’s not a super hard job so I think I’ll definitely get the 2 front ones changed to start. Thanks for the advice and the info!
I’m now working on changing the struts and when I said it was easy, it’s actually not. The upper sway bar linkage key is stripped on both sides and vice grips aren’t cutting it. Is there anything I can do to make this somewhat easier or do I have to cut it out and get new ones?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
I’m now working on changing the struts and when I said it was easy, it’s actually not. The upper sway bar linkage key is stripped on both sides and vice grips aren’t cutting it. Is there anything I can do to make this somewhat easier or do I have to cut it out and get new ones?
(Edited for clarification.)

Nut splitter or cut the nuts/ends off.

Some of the aftermarket replacement links have a full size hex (like a 14 or 15mm nut made as part of the stud) rather than a wimpy 8mm hex hole. That doesn't help you now, but may in the future. Putting grease on the threads of the new end links when you install then may also help for the future (when if they have to be removed/replaced).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,022 Posts
some have a hex on the back side.
get some heat on the nuts and some penetrant for awhile.
hacksaw/sawzall them tight to the bar on the backside and get new if all else fails.
hope you have a good weekend to work on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nut splitter or cut the nuts/ends off.

Some of the aftermarket replacement links have a full size hex rather than a wimpy 8mm hex hole. That doesn't help you now, but may in the future. Putting grease on the threads may also help for the future.
Ok thanks for the tip! I was thinking I had to buy new sway bars but I’m glad to know it can be repaired somewhat.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
I find that a Dremel tool with cut-off or grinding disc works well for cutting thru the nut (after a few cuts, you can break it off in pieces) and giving control against scarring up the sway bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I find that a Dremel tool with cut-off or grinding disc works well for cutting thru the nut (after a few cuts, you can break it off in pieces) and giving control against scarring up the sway bar.
Ok. I’ll probably just get new away bars if they’re not expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,022 Posts
sway bars are expensive, links aren't .
i'll assume that's what you meant.
cut the link in the centre of the connecting shaft and worry about sway bar end after you get the strut out.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top