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Discussion Starter #1
150K on the odometer, been using Dino oil.
Benifits to switching at this lat stage to full synth Mobil One?
Drawbacks?

I know it's been talked about befor but new oils have come out and things change.
Your thoughts?
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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Go Mobil 1 if you so desire! Dammit! :lol

The myths of synthetic destroying gaskets etc are outdated, with new gasket materials this is not an issue anymore. If you had a 1982 Diplomat with a slant six I would have a different suggestion. Synthetic is much better at handling heat, and has a better detergent to keep things clean and free.
 

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The Womanizer!
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No big deal to switch. I would check it more often at first to see if it is consuming it or not. My kid had a GM that drank synthetic, but not a drop of dino....who knows
 

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get off my lawn
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if your talking the M,, Id use Bulk oil
 

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get off my lawn
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the special, like to use mobile 1,, about a quart every 1200 milesand that was back when it had around 70K,,, lifters rattled also,,, a good hi mileage oil is what I would use,, (ok,, I do use Castrol hi mileage10w30)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the special, like to use mobile 1,, about a quart every 1200 milesand that was back when it had around 70K,,, lifters rattled also,,, a good hi mileage oil is what I would use,, (ok,, I do use Castrol hi mileage10w30)
That is what I am afraid of. Going to stay with the Mopar filter though.
 

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I've been debating switching the special over to synthetic and its at 190k miles plus. The main reason I haven't switched is the extra cost.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Been using synthetic in the Special since I got it @ 65k miles. Now at almost 130k. Very little if any oil loss between changes. 4500 mile interval changes. Pennzoil or Mobil 1 are the oils I use in the recommended OEM viscosity. Never had the "Startup Rattle or Tick" since I've owned it.

The Ricer R/T has been on Dino oil since I bought it over 5 years ago. Maybe put 10k miles on it total since I've owned it. (yes that's right..less than 2k miles/year!). OEM viscosity. Oil gets changed once a year whether it needs it or not!
 

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run it in my lhs. threw it in at 100k miles, and i ran it in my 95 trep.
it had 200k miles on it when i got it. but i ran it in the trep more for cold starting capablity.
you want an oil to pump at -30C without necessarily being plugged in.
as long as you have no major leaks, it'll be fine as long as you have practiced good maintenance in the past.
possible issue; this is hearsay, but it may knock loose deposits from an unkempt engine, blocking passages. thruth? no actual personal experience of it. bit it sounds plausible.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The trep has had M1 since 35K, now 143k, but I have never switched. What is the therory behind the high milage oils?
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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Theory is the additives help to 'swell' aging rubber seals (valve stem, crank, etc) that may be on the verge of seeping/leaking, or leaking already.

It's also usually a blended oil of dino/synth.

If you've run pure dino for the past 100K miles, switching to full synth is fine, but it's possible that after a few changes, you may develop an oil leak where there was none before, due to the cleaning nature of the full synth...

I attribute this to the leaks on both the LHS and the Trep in 2010. Once I went back to a high-mile (I like Valvoline red-jug) those gradually disappeared.

YMMV. I can only offer my own experience/opinion. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Theory is the additives help to 'swell' aging rubber seals (valve stem, crank, etc) that may be on the verge of seeping/leaking, or leaking already.

It's also usually a blended oil of dino/synth.

If you've run pure dino for the past 100K miles, switching to full synth is fine, but it's possible that after a few changes, you may develop an oil leak where there was none before, due to the cleaning nature of the full synth...

I attribute this to the leaks on both the LHS and the Trep in 2010. Once I went back to a high-mile (I like Valvoline red-jug) those gradually disappeared.

YMMV. I can only offer my own experience/opinion. :D
interesting that the leaks stopped whed you switched back....
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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My guess is the pure synthetics don't have the 'additives' (whatever compounds those might be), and whatever bits were keeping things from leaking got washed/cleaned out as the synth did its thang over the course of several oil changes. :dunno:

Pure conjecture on my part. I am not an engineer. :D

Though I am going to send in a sample to Blackstone for analysis here in the next couple of weeks. Never been done since I've owned it - may not tell me anything meaningful, but could give me an indication of current engine 'health'.
 

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get off my lawn
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really,, if your analysis, comes back bad,, what can you do?? run out and buy a new car??
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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really,, if your analysis, comes back bad,, what can you do?? run out and buy a new car??
Well no, but if they do provide harshly negative feedback, some planning can begin.

Well if it comes back 'normal' for a 178K mile, great! I'll plan on the TB/WP again around 200K. :D

They probably can't tell me much from a single analysis. I'm more curious than anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
really,, if your analysis, comes back bad,, what can you do?? run out and buy a new car??
Sounds like a plan. I tell you what, I will send you a sample to Doctor Dodge Oil Analysis Inc. And you send back results that are bad and recommend I run right out and buy a Challenger 6.1. Oh, and mistakenly address it to Mrs Duds. :D
 
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