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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys...

So its about time for an oil change and maybe a few little tune-up type things, just to keep the car running purdy. I'm thinking about using either Castrol Syntec Blend or Full Synth Castrol Syntec in my oil change. Does it really matter whether or not I "gradually" change over or can I go straight to full synthetic from cheapo dino oil? I'd like to do it the right way so my engine runs well for several more years but want to know how to do it right. So far my tune-up includes the following:
- Synthetic Oil
- Fuel Injector Cleaner
- Air filter

Any other ideas on tune-up items? Preferably easy to change out items that are relatively reasonably priced.

Thanks!!
Josiah
 

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JLWX5 said:
Hey guys...

So its about time for an oil change and maybe a few little tune-up type things, just to keep the car running purdy. I'm thinking about using either Castrol Syntec Blend or Full Synth Castrol Syntec in my oil change. Does it really matter whether or not I "gradually" change over or can I go straight to full synthetic from cheapo dino oil? I'd like to do it the right way so my engine runs well for several more years but want to know how to do it right. So far my tune-up includes the following:
- Synthetic Oil
- Fuel Injector Cleaner
- Air filter

Any other ideas on tune-up items? Preferably easy to change out items that are relatively reasonably priced.

Thanks!!
Josiah
air filter change every oli change ( more often if you in dusty area )
fuel cleaner i run a bottle every month
synthetic oil look for any leaks you have now and fix synthetic will find leaks quick
what about plugs ?
fuel filter ? there under pressure be carefull
tire air pressure ?
check plug wires ?
 

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Also clean out the IAC and Throttle Body Assy. And a new PCV Valve too.
 

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intrepid1994 said:
air filter change every oli change ( more often if you in dusty area )
Are you serious? Nobody changes their air filter every oil change. Shouldn't have to look at it more than once a year. I put a new air filter in my car in May '04 when I bought it and when I put a K&N in it March '05, the paper filter still looked like new.

intrepid1994 said:
fuel filter ? there under pressure be carefull
on the 2nd gen's the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump unit and not serviceable.
intrepid1994 said:
check plug wires ?
2nd gen's don't have plug wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
More good answers! Thanks! Here's a few more to ponder...

1) Where are the spark plugs located and how do I access them?
2) How do I clean the throttle body and IAC?
3) Wheres the cheapest place to get a K&N FIPK for my car?
4) Just to clarify, I am safe in switching straight to full synthetic from regular motor oil?
6) How much fuel injector cleaner and how often?
7) Best spark plugs for gas mileage and / or performance?
8) Any other good gas mileage and performance tricks?

Thanks
Josiah
 

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JLWX5 said:
More good answers! Thanks! Here's a few more to ponder...

1) Where are the spark plugs located and how do I access them?
Open the hood and you'll see six coil packs, 3 on each valve cover. There's 2 bolts that hold them down (either hex head or torx head screws). Do the plugs ONE AT A TIME! Remove the 2 bolts holding down the coil. Unhook the wire from the coil and gve the coil pack a twist to loosen it and pull it out. Note the one closed to the back on the driver's side has some vacuum lines over it and will be the trickiest one. Once you have the coil pack off, look down in the well, and you have a spark plug. Take a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and a spark plug socket (that has the rubber insert, with these deep spark plug wells, you'll WANT that rubber insert in the socket!) and remove the plug. Important-when installing new or reinstalling the old plugs, make sure you use an anti-seize paste on the threads so the plugs don't get stuck in the heads!!! I also used anti-seize on the threads of my coil bolts. Make sure you use a taper gauge to check the gap before you install them. DO NOT assume they are pre-gapped correctly. They usually are, but what if someone dropped the box?? Take a moment and check the gap. The rest is pretty cut and dry. Take your time and do one at a time. I took about 1/2 hour on a Saturday afternoon. Piece of cake.
JLWX5 said:
4) Just to clarify, I am safe in switching straight to full synthetic from regular motor oil?
Some say not to, others say why not. I have switched right over from dino to synthetic. I have noticed some seepage at the back of my oil pan, not enough to drip onto the ground. However, I had noted some old oil there in the past when using dino, so I'm not 100% that the synthethic caused this. I put a bottle of Bar's engine oil stop leak in Monday and the pan still looks dry.

JLWX5 said:
7) Best spark plugs for gas mileage and / or performance?
I did my plugs around 65K and the originals still looked pretty good. I went with the same Champion double plats that came out of it and they seem just fine. The factory range on the gap is between .050" and .058". My OE's that came out at 65K were around .056" and could have easily stayed in longer. And with a good ignition system, I think 100K is possible. But as easy as they are on this engine to change, I said why not, besides I was bored that day!

If I had some reason to be in the Glens Falls area tomorrow, I'd look you up. I might be in Cohoes tomorrow dropping my step-son offf at his dad's.

BTW 1986 was a good year. I started high school in Utica that year and the Mets won the World Series that year! I watched it on TV. I know I'm dating myself a little bit, but so far the Mets are off to a good start this year and I had to reminisce
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I wouldn't mind a meet sometime in my general area. Work all weekend though. What a drag. Those are some good answers! I might just do the synthetic and the fuel injector cleaner for now and later on do maybe a K&N kit and spark plugs.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Josiah
 

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When I switched to synthetic, I did it directly, no mixtures or anything. my first oil change was to synthetic.
 

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I've been running a K&N drop-in in the stock air box. Seems to do fine. JoeKD makes air intakes that can hook up to the stock box or add a big cone filter, like a K&N FIPK would. Drop him a PM to get a price. I believe he even paints them whatever color you want it. Look around here, a few members have posted either ho-to's and/or parts lists to make them. I've been thinking about it for awhile now but haven't gotten to it. Life is busy, work and kids and taking care of my wife's nephews, etc... And, of course, there is the big ingredient to doing mod's, MONEY. Not a lot of that with everyone else having their hand out, especially when gas is $3.00/gallon or more.
 

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Synthetic blend oil has only a few percent synthetic fluid in there.......it's not like a 50/50 mix like you'd think. Synthetic blend is a waste of time, go full synthetic if you're gonna change it.

I changed mine over to Castrol Syntec a few weeks ago for the first time.....always ran Castrol GTX up until then.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ha... stupid consumers... I was under the impression that it was at least 50% synthetic. Well maybe I'll grab some oil and fuel injector cleaner and do a little tune-up.

Josiah
 

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Blend is something like 10% synthetic.

Change back and forth as you will. Synthetic to conventional.

Some members here swear by a certain brand of plug. I've tried Champions, Bosch 2 and Bosch +4's. No noticeable change in performance, mileage, idle quality or anything.

My 70 Road Runner which was 11.50's on a 125hp of nitrous. Would misfire after using nitrous when I had the plugs I used to swear by. Champions, Champion gold, Champion truck. All failed after I sprayed. NGK, Autolite, Canadian Tire V groove all ran flawlessly before and after spray.

As for your air filter. Every oil change is too often. I have a K&N in our LHS and I clean it once a year only due to guilt. It still looks clean.

I'm not against fuel injector cleaner. My injectors might fail tommorrow morning but I've never poured a drop of it in the tank and it's now 12 years old.
I still passes Ontario emissions, with quite low numbers too.
Still runs strong enough to carry its 3800lbs into the 15's.
Idles smooth as new.

Your 2001 is now 5 years old. You should consider changing coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid and transmission filter and fluid.
 
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