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I'm making this thread to document things I've found/discovered in my teardown of a 2000 3.5L HO engine.

Yes, I have a 2G engine in my garage. No, it does not run.

Gaskets:
Headgaskets where metal. Lower intake gaskets where metal as well. Both apear to have RTV or maybe subgaskets on each side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown/DSCF0045.jpg

Intake:
1G plenum will NOT bolt up to this engine's lower intake. However, the intake ports line up perfectly. If you were to drill and tap holes, you could get the 1G intake to fit this engine's lower intake.

Picture of a 1G gasket on a 2G lower intake:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown/DSCF0011.jpg

Cooling:
There is NOT a rear coolant pathway in the lower intake. However, there are rear pathways that line up where its suppose to go, in the head. The front coolant pathway looks nornal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown/DSCF0021.jpg

Water pump:
Water pump looks similar to the late model 1G 6 bolt. Maybe it's the same?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown 2/DSCF0006.jpg

Heads/valvetrain:
Heads can be taken off without changing cam timing. Just leave the cam sproket on, and the front covers on. My cam sprokets are still on my heads. Rocker arms came off fine. Just had to loosen the bolts, and the assembly lifts right up and off. Something I noticed is that neons have a similar cam sproket. The tooth count is around 50 for both. However, theirs doesnt have the nut molded in for loostening/tightening the bolt. Neons have aftermarket adjustable camsprokets.

Block:
This block does indeed have sleves. The sleves on my block show no damage what so ever. Even though the previous owner didnt keep up on his/her oil changes. There isn't much to bore out on the sleves though. If you want to bore out the block a decent amount, it will have to be resleved with custom sized ones. However, you can hone the sleves out just fine.

Bottom end:
Oil pickup screen seems rather small. Mine had metal shavings stuck in it. Theres a cover that covers the crankshaft. The bolts are small, and easy to round off. I had to drill out one. Becareful if you have to. These bolts double function as main cap bolts! The main caps have a total of SIX bolts holding them in place. 2 on the side (and can be accessed from the side of the block), and 4 on the top. All bolts go straight down. No angles.

Engine stand mounting:
This engine will hold in an engine stand just fine. Just buy a cherry picker/lift to hold it up while you bolt it to the mount. REMEBER THAT THE BELLHOUSING BOLTS ARE METRIC. It is easy to rethread holes in this block, since its made of alum. You will need 2 M12x1.75 bolts. I think mine are around 2.75"-3" long. The stand braces/tubes are pretty long. For the lower bolts, anything large and long works. I used the largest US standard bolts I could find. I put washers on both sides.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown 3/DSCF0040.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown 3/DSCF0018.jpg

Spark:
The 2G spark plug tubes are shorter. So is the valve cover. 1G spark plugs fit fine, but might not provide the best seal. I'm not sure if the diameter has changed, but the tubes seem smaller on the 2G.

Tips if you are accually thinking about rebuilding an intrepid engine youself:
Buy a full metric socket set. 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive. You will need EVERY size. Even those odd number ones that many kits dont include. Get 7mm to 20mm. A breaker bar will pretty much be a must for some bolts. Mainly the head bolts. Those where the worst. I snapped 2 3/8" socket wrenches on the head bolts. After that, I used 1/2" drive socket wrench, with no extensions, and a very long pry bar. Make sure the wrench doesnt lift up on you when you are doing it. You will round out the bolt if it lifts up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown 3/DSCF0011.jpg


That said, lets get to the status of my engine. This engine I bought for $150 on ebay. I was aware that it had rod bearing noise.

Issues I've found:
-Scratch in one cam lobe (drivers side):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown/DSCF0031.jpg
- Passengers side camshaft doesnt spin as well as it should. Bearings must be bad.
- Oil pan has stress cracks. Probably from having it siting on the pan while I worked on it.
- Valve cover has a few cracks
- 2 Rod bearings are completely toast
- Crankshaft needs regrind

As I go a long with this rebuild, I will post my progress on here. I can not garentee that I will finish this rebuild. The damage might cost too much to repair, or I might just put it off for another year. I can't tell you for sure that this engine will go in my car. Honestly though, I really really want it in my car.

Progress pictures can be found here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/

Updated note:I updated all the links I saw in the first 3 pages of this thread, to point to photobucket. If you find any links that still point to my home server or hypnos.dodgeintrepid.net, just go to photobucket, and the photo will be there. The folder names and file names will line up too.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
With all that said, this is where I'm at right now.
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5238&size=big&password=&sort=1&cat=512

See the two circled areas? Yeah. Thats metal coming out. That is not suppose to happen. But hopefully that is bearing metal.

Thankfully, the top one is bearing metal.

That is what is left of the bearing.

Crankshaft journal LOOKS ok:


First piston is out:




The top has some carbon, but nothing to cry about. No imperfactions in the face. The top is flat (unlike 1G).
 

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*bows down* We're not worthy!

H is King.

The thing about the rear coolant passage isn't a big deal. Many aftermarket 5.0 intakes do not have a rear passge and it is not a problem. I can't remember why exactly though.

Make sure you are numbering area specific parts like valvetrain and piston rods and even rod and main bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was about to number the rods/pistons, but the FSM says they have numbers on them. I'll double check that next time I look at it. I put the cap and nuts back on it, so I wouldn't mix them up.

All screws and small parts are in individual and labeled plastic bags.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hypnos/HO Teardown/DSCF0029.jpg

However, I did not keep track of the order of the head bolts. If they arent too much from the dealer, I want to just buy new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmm...didn't know that. I'll double check the heads for warping before I send the crankshaft to the machine shop (if i do..which I probably will).

Tips like this are really appreciated though. This is my first rebuild afterall.
 

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Get some pics of the heads. I wanna see if the 2G heads will bolt onto the 1G. Has someone already done this?
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12
Better pic:


There are 4 head bolts in the bolt holes, to distict those. There are 3 main oil passages along the bottom. I think there is another at the top left corner. Coolant passages are spread out in the inbetween areas. If theres a hole that doesnt have blue tightly around it, its a coolant passage.

This is with the headgasket on, BTW.
 

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i wanna tear down an engine :(
 

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How much for shipping off eBay?
How much did the entire engine weigh? was it marked on the pallette?

Since it is currently disassembled, can you weigh parts so a total weight can be found.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The seller lived near me, so shipping was not an issue. I talked with the seller before I placed a bid to arrange how it would be deliviered.

As far as engine weight, let me put it this way. 2 guys carried it off the truck. I can bearly lift the block alone by myself. However, I can not carry it. I'm guessing the block with internals weights around 150 to 200 lbs. The heads are roughly 20-30lbs each. Don't count on these guesses being accurate. That is all they are. Guesses.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cleaned the piston:


You can bearly see it, but there accually is an inverted dome to the piston. It isn't deep at all. The botom portion of the piston seems to be stained from the oil. That picture is after I wiped off the whole piston.

I'm not sure when the next time I will accually work on it will be. Might not be for another week or two. I need to catch up on homework (college).
 

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Are you gonna mill the deck to bump up the compression?
 

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you should take the piston and let them soak in kerosene for a while, i did this with a set of 302 pistons and after a little careful cleaning they came out looking almost brand new.

Also, send the heads and the block out to the machine shop to if not all else, get hot tanked.. clean shiney parts make for an easier rebuilt, plus it will clean out any of that crap and metal shavings that might be hiding.

Actually, I'd send the heads, block and lower intake out for a hot tank'n. Its good to start with a freshly cleaned everything. The shop can also check the block surface for straight and the heads for straightness and cracks. It might be a little expensive, but its definatly worth the money to be 100% sure.
 

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Mollasses is also very good for preserving engine parts, and cleaning them, albeit over a longer period of time. It might also be worth getting the block and heads xrayed to check for hairline cracks that may be there if the engine was ever overheated.
 

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hypnos said:


Intake:
1G plenum will NOT bolt up to this engine's lower intake. However, the intake ports line up perfectly. If you were to drill and tap holes, you could get the 1G intake to fit this engine's lower intake.


To fit the 1G intake on the 2G engine swap the lower intake for the 1G and bolt it on the 2G head. The only mod you have to do is to block one hole for the prestone. The hole is about 3/8 inch diameter. By utilising the 1G lower intake the coolant pathway return like a 1G configfuration since the 2G head have the rear coolant pathway.
 
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