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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know the Thermal Cut Out (TCO) Fuse spec for the blower motor resistor module on a ‘94 Intrepid 3.3L?
Replaced old blower motor that was nearly locked up that took out the tco on the resistor module. The resistors are fine but the tco (thermal fuse) is open. I’d rather replace the bad tco than the whole thing since nothing else is wrong with it. The resistors are perfectly fine.
The only writing I can see on the component is 110 which from I’ve gathered searching thru old posts on here is the temperature rating (110C). No other important technical information about the tco is mentioned.
All the other writing on the tco is unreadable but I’m sure it’s important e.g., wattage, amp rating etc etc.
Does anyone know so I can order the right one? Thanks!
 

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Any manufacturer logo on the part? Post a clear photo of all the markings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any manufacturer logo on the part? Post a clear photo of all the markings?
It’s way too small to see in a picture. I clipped it off & used a 10x’s lupe under a bright light & this is what’s written on it:
MICROTEMP <—(then it has the R in a circle after it KDCABE so that’s the trademark/ brand)
Y9E01
TF
110C

I was hoping to find the voltage, current rating etc. but that’s all that’s on it. I found a little info on what the different parts of the spec# indicate on the Climate.Emerson.com website but couldn’t find any kind of cross reference to an equivalent part.
 

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I think you're pushing a rope. As an experienced (40+ years) electrical/electronics component engineer, I don't think you're going to find a source for these in small quantity. Surrender. Get a new resistor module if your time is worth anything.

Here's a document I located that will just be a tease without getting you where you want to go: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1702837.pdf

From that document:
Rectangle Font Parallel Circle Pattern


Notice that you can, in theory, create the Y9E01110 number - but actually purchasing them is another matter. Y means it's not made with any agency (like UL) certification. The only number I see with 9 as the second character is R9... (see table on page 4 of the document). Is R9 the same characteristics as Y9? Who knows? You might contact them and ask to buy Y9E01110C, and they may come back with a quote specifying an MOQ (minimum order quantity) of 10k, or 20k, or 100k.

Here is the closest I could find: 240°C Thermal Fuse Wire Ended 15A 250Vac Y9E01 240C Microtemp Multi Qty | eBay
but it's 240°C.

Summary: Give up. Get a new resistor module. :)

p.s. - I did find another document that said the 01 means both leads are long. 00 would mean one lead long, the other cut short. 😄
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you're pushing a rope. As an experienced (40+ years) electrical/electronics component engineer, I don't think you're going to find a source for these in small quantity. Surrender. Get a new resistor module if your time is worth anything.

Here's a document I located that will just be a tease without getting you where you want to go: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1702837.pdf

From that document:
View attachment 41921

Notice that you can, in theory, create the Y9E01110 number - but actually purchasing them is another matter. Y means it's not made with any agency (like UL) certification. The only number I see with 9 as the second character is R9... (see table on page 4 of the document). Is R9 the same characteristics as Y9? Who knows? You might contact them and ask to buy Y9E01110C, and they may come back with a quote specifying an MOQ (minimum order quantity) of 10k, or 20k, or 100k.

Here is the closest I could find: 240°C Thermal Fuse Wire Ended 15A 250Vac Y9E01 240C Microtemp Multi Qty | eBay
but it's 240°C.

Summary: Give up. Get a new resistor module. :)

p.s. - I did find another document that said the 01 means both leads are long. 00 would mean one lead long, the other cut short. 😄
Thank you so much sir!
 

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You're welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i have wired around it to put them back in service.
Right, but I wouldn’t feel comfortable doing that. I’ve put too much work into it to getting it running like it’s never ran before to risk it catching on fire lol.
I finally figured out the values (15A, 250V, 110C) & ordered the component off Amazon for a few bucks & put it back together & now it’s back to working like it should:)
 
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