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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's something I know I need to be doing very very soon...since the Trep has been using coolant over the past several months. Fortunately nowhere near as much as it MIGHT since I've been driving my 81 Toy p/u since it gets better mpgs (though since November thats been questionable).

My oil has remained that...oil. The crankcase has not yet become a milkshake blender. Around the thermostat cover I did notice some of that gummy green stuff left behind when coolant evaporates and even a wet spot from time to time. NOW...replacing a thermostat SHOULD be an excruciatingly simple job to someone who knows how to use a wrench//ratchet. But there is a problem; I can't get to the 2 rear tiny bolts. There is a wire harness in that nylon wrap that is tucked in the crevice between the thermostat cover and the mushroom-head of the intake plenum. The R/R bolt is just BARELY visible and I might be able to get a socket on it but the R/L one is completely covered. I MIGHT be able to get enough slack in that bundle if I could pull the funky looking plastic clip that is used to hold the bundle onto a bolt stud tip thats buried between the valve cover above cyl#4 and the intake plenum...I'd probably need really long needle nose just to reach down there. Unfortunately the space between the thermostat cover and the intake is about half the size of the wrapped up wire.

Took it to a mechanic to get his opinion: Need to pop the intake so I can move the wire harness out of the way of the bolt to access the bolts holding the thermostat cover on. Anyone else ever had the issue where the wire bundle (at the very least it holds the coil wires for the entire right bank together)...goes around in front of the intake to tuck between intake & thermostat...then continue on towards the left bank? To me, having to pull the intake just to clear up the slack in some wires to get access to a couple small bolts is a bit overkill...

EDIT: On 2/18 I FINALLY got it all paid off..bye bye tax return...so now I own the car bumper to bumper and is the LAST time I buy from a dealership thats for sure.
 

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the thermostat is on the lower drivers side, not on the top of the intake on a 2.7.
i have a 5/16" box end wrench i bent up to reach that next to impossible bolt on top of the outlet. slow working, but faster than removing the whole intake.
 

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yep,, wrong place,, lower left on the engine find the lower hose and go up from there
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Odd setup. In any other properly constructed engine the thermostat is on top/front of the engine...with placement on V engines between the banks. Ok then what the hell is below the contraption the upper hose is connected to? Just went outside to trace back the lower hose and it seems to disappear somewhere beside the left exhaust manifold. It's around that whatchamahoo up top that I've found the potential leak.

I apologize for the pic quality. But the thing at the image center is NOT the thermostat housing? If not what is it? It is around there that I've seen dried coolant residue.
 

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Odd setup. In any other properly constructed engine the thermostat is on top/front of the engine...with placement on V engines between the banks. Ok then what the hell is below the contraption the upper hose is connected to? Just went outside to trace back the lower hose and it seems to disappear somewhere beside the left exhaust manifold. It's around that whatchamahoo up top that I've found the potential leak.

I apologize for the pic quality. But the thing at the image center is NOT the thermostat housing? If not what is it? It is around there that I've seen dried coolant residue.
it's just the water outlet, or hose connector. have a tendency to blow apart on occasion.
as for the t-stat being located elsewhere, it's been going on for more than a decade that's it's been relocated on the return side on quite a few engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
it's just the water outlet, or hose connector. have a tendency to blow apart on occasion.
as for the t-stat being located elsewhere, it's been going on for more than a decade that's it's been relocated on the return side on quite a few engines.
Bass Ackwards in my opinion. Might still have a thermostat sticking since the car takes longer to warm up from cold now. Oh joy it will be getting to that thing. But still...even though that's not the thermostat housing on top...the problem of it leaking around the outlet is still present. Have any of you ever had the issue of the wire harness making access to the back 2 bolts all but impossible, short of removing the intake? Now that its daylight outside (as of this post) I'll try to get some new pics to show what the problem is.

1st image shows the wrapped wiring that obscures access to the rear 2 bolts. The one in the top left corner of the outlet...covered up by the wiring...is barely accessible. The top right one cannot be reached.

2nd image shows the predicament better...the wire is entrenched between the intake and the outlet...across both rear bolts.

3rd image for good measure shows it a bit more as my finger tip starts to disappear down there.

I'm absolutely certain this is the cause of my coolant loss since I've seen fresh gummy deposits from evaporated coolant and also some pooling on occasion. I really hope I don't have to take the intake off just to get access to those rear bolts so I can remove the outlet to replace its gasket. Could try BARSLEAK but in these new-er engines I might upset some sensor somewhere and cause other problems...idk.
 

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get off my lawn
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yea,, you have no choice,, you have to lift the intake to replace the outlet
 

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It's not bad to lift that intake up just take out the front few all the way to the back ones I believe there are 7 or 8 bolts all together you don't have to take off intake completely just lift it enough to reach the back bolts on the housing then you can replace that bleeder housing should be fairly cheap around 40-50 buck to replace not counting the anti freeze you have to replace. Remember when you have that housing off to dump coolant into the motor till its full then slap your new housing on, this helps when it's time to bleed the air out of the system.

Once you have everything back on and tightend up drive your car around and get it good and warm, once you do shut off the engine and bleed the air out of the valve on that housing I think it a 3/8 fitting and you can use a brake bleeding hose on that fitting so you can drain that into a pan or bottle sometimes it takes awhile to get all that air out completely, it's the dumbest design ever in my opinion, keep checking your reservoir over the next few days to make sure if it's full and doesn't hurt to bleed that system once in awhile.
 
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