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One quick question to anyone who owns a 1st gen. Intrepid- I know this is going to sound stupid (dont call me stupid), Im a manager at a autoparts store and I know the the function of thermostat, that the computer is programmed to work with our 195 temp. thermostats, BUT has anyone got curious on how are cars would run with lower stat? yes, we'd be running richer on gas, would an intake make a better air/fuel ratio? We all know that a cooler motor would produce more hp. I'v tried to match one up (a 192 or 180) with the 195 temp at work and cant find anything close. while looking up thermostats I noticed that the 99' 300M have a 180 degree stat! I'm pretty sure this has to be a little mod that helps that car out with its hp. If anyones pulled this off, post me what stat, and how your car runs. Did it pass smog (damn strict CA. laws) or did you replace before your appoinment?
 

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I don't think cooler motors run better, I think it's when they're Temp gauge needle is in the middle it runs the best.
 

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Changing the thermostat should not throw the computer off. The ECM monitors the coolant temp and uses it to HELP determine mixture and spark advance. The cooler Thermstat would just help the engine run cooler and the computer should willingly adjust to that.

Do you work for AutoZone? I've been searching for a 180 degree thermo, and they were the only place that gave me a speach about throwing the computer off.
 

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Anybody have a part number for a 180 Degree Thermo for the 1st GEN?
 

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NAPA Thermostat # 153. It is a 180.
 

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madmykl said:
We all know that a cooler motor would produce more hp.
We all know that? I don't. :p

A hotter combustion chamber will make more power (but then there is detonation to consider). Way to many variables involved to make such a simple statement.
 

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Correct, but there is an optimum combustion chamber temp.

Then also keep in mind that the Thermostat temp is not the saem as the area of the combustion chanmber. The Thermo is outide the block, so it will tend to be cooler, so 180 at the thermo may be 212 at the chamber. I think I saw a post were someone checked that and showed that the 195 thermo kept the sensor at 200.
 

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CHASTAIN said:
Correct, but there is an optimum combustion chamber temp.

Then also keep in mind that the Thermostat temp is not the saem as the area of the combustion chanmber. The Thermo is outide the block, so it will tend to be cooler, so 180 at the thermo may be 212 at the chamber. I think I saw a post were someone checked that and showed that the 195 thermo kept the sensor at 200.
Internet theories. :rolleyes: The actual temps mean diddly.

Get it, stick it in and see what happens. Let us know. Might be faster, slower or the same. (It would be nice to see some real numbers and not just that it feels/seems/must be better.) For $5 and 5 minutes of work, it's definately worth a try. :)
 

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b4black said:
Internet theories. :rolleyes: The actual temps mean diddly.

Get it, stick it in and see what happens. Let us know. Might be faster, slower or the same. (It would be nice to see some real numbers and not just that it feels/seems/must be better.) For $5 and 5 minutes of work, it's definately worth a try. :)
Exactly what part of what I said was theory?

There IS an optimum combustion chamber temp, just as there is an optimum temp to do any reaction. Granted, it might be a temp range. If that is not true, why do we go through so much trouble to heat an engine to OPERATING TEMP. Why do we have two sets of cats? What is this EGR thing all about?

I know the point you are making though, I'm just not the person you need to remind.

If you do a search, I think you will find some one has done this and tested the theory at the track. I have also read, but not confirmed, that the newer Aluminium blocks have a 180 thermo, which is a good sign that it may be a good choice for our cars, although there are too many other factors involved to just make that assumption.

One thing that got me to thinking was the block itself. Aluminium dissapates heat better than iron, so if the 180 thermo is better in the aluminum, it should be better in the iron block, assuming all other things equal.

Anyway, I got a part number, I got a store, I'm gonna get me one.
 

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I got one in. doesn't seem to change anything but the atcual engine temperature. car runs well, I suppose it idles better that it did before.. but that could also be many other things. There aren't any error codes, gas milage stayed the same.... I am able to run 87 gas without affecting gas milage either..... (as the "theories" out there say that you can drop octane 1 point for every 10 degrees).

I do notice that the engine bay isn't scalding hot anymore. that 20 degrees REALLY makes a difference.

I also notice NO difference in the heat in the car. it is nice and toasty warm, even on the fridged days.
 

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It don't give more hp when I use the 180 thermostat on my 3.5L. When I install the 180 F thermostat I can keep my car with equal performance for a more long time at drag. The 3.5 performance suffer alot when the outside temps are above 23 C . Of course a lower radiator fan set-up help to keep the engine colder. The Prowler PCM have this capability.
 

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That's the story I have always heard.

I've seen at least one story with data showing the effects over several 1/4 mile runs, and if memory serves me well (Which usually isn't the case) the lower temps were a benifit after a couple of runs. The assumption seemed to be that the heat eventually reduces performance, and the lower temps reduced this effect or kept the engine operating at an optimum temp for a longer period of time. There's that word again. I think the difference was only around around a few hundreths of a sec though.

Other beifits:
The heater will get hot sooner, but probably not enough to notice.
 
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