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i'll get right on that :rolleyes:
 

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Seems to me they marked up the parts pretty good, especially if they got them from a parts store. But that's why I try to fix things myself first. I'll admit, getting that pulley off of mine was a real pain.
 

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Well, it sounds like its all fixed now. Besides the 3.5 always seems like its idling rough. I have a 3.3 Intrepid and father-in-law has a 3.5 New Yorker, I always ask him if there is a problem with the idle and he always says no. Its just their fingerprint, so I wouldnt worry if its ok or not. Give it a good romping, you'll find out then if its hurt or not.

Im going to have somewhat agree with 97 sport platinum. It probably is ok, however, there is always a chance, just not a big one that the piston hit the valves. 9 times out of 10 (maybe even 99 out of 100) with a non-interference engine, the pistons and the valves do not hit. Here's one way to tell if there would ever even consider hitting the pistons. Are the pistons flycut? Now from the way you talk I'm pretty sure you wouldn't know. Meaning you've never done major repair or rebuilding the engine, not belittling you.

A stock 3.5 does not have flycut pistons, so therefore, it more then likely will not have any piston to valve interference. Again my disclaimer is 99 out of 100 times. At higher speeds that possibility can happen on a case by case basis, just not likely.
 

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Chris said:
97 Sport platinum, yes, it can hit, and it is possable, a non means that it's just not likely to happen, not that it can't happen, Just because you never seen one do it dosn't mean it hasn't happen, I have seen this happen on a 3.5 before with my own eyes, granted it was only 1 but it happen, and I seen a post were a guy fixxed his own car that it happen to, I'll look to find the posters name and you can tell him how he don't have to do all the valve work on his car

97 Sport 148,000 miles and counting
You mean I spent a whole week on that engine and the valves were fine? Oh well it was fun anyway. LOL Guys, those valves were toast, but you all have to remember at was pulling out in to traffic and I was at a redline shift and then "snap". That was all she wrote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
UPDATE

Hello All,

---> First off, thanks all for the replies!! :)

hardwarz,
Thanks for all the info about checking compression. :)

Black94ES,
I just called him up & asked him if he replaced the tensioner belt. He corrected me by saying: "Well it not a belt, it a pulley. And no. It looked just fine."

Intrepidude,
I just called him up & asked him what brand a timing belt he used to replace my broken one, and he said: "Napa." I then said: "Like as in Napa Auto Parts?" And he said: "Yes." I wonder if I called Napa Auto Parts, and they quote me cheaper on the belt rather than what I paid, is my mechanic in the "legal" wrong, or does he have the right to mark prices up when he sees fit?

68stang,
Well I revved the engine up to about 3.5K - 4K RPMs. Everything sounds the same as it always has. The only thing that I could maybe notice is that it seems like it idles at lower RPMs. Before the belt broke, I always thought it idled at about 645RPM, now it looks like it's idling at about 540RPM. But that's such a small difference, that maybe my head is just playing games with me, as if it's looking for something wrong. The car seems fine all around now.

Di.net,
I really appreciate everyone's input & opinions here. I'm extremely glad I stumbled onto this site 11 months ago. Thank you all very much.

WildJJ :)
 

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I'm not a mechanic by no means, but my wifes uncle is a certified chrysler mechanic. I asked him the interference question. Basically he said what I quoted from Chris. He even went to the extent to say all current chrysler engines are "technically" interference engines. I didn't go into a lot of detail but I asked why a work mate of mine who was cruising around 70mph in his 3.5 trep and had timing belt snap and he didn't suffer any damage? Basically he said that newer designs are much better and better material prevents damage from happening. I don't know for myself so I take his automotive advice as bible.


Chris said:
97 Sport platinum, yes, it can hit, and it is possable, a non means that it's just not likely to happen, not that it can't happen, Just because you never seen one do it dosn't mean it hasn't happen, I have seen this happen on a 3.5 before with my own eyes, granted it was only 1 but it happen, and I seen a post were a guy fixxed his own car that it happen to, I'll look to find the posters name and you can tell him how he don't have to do all the valve work on his car

97 Sport 148,000 miles and counting
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Certified Chrysler Mechanic

Mopar4U,
Thank you very much. Your posted information makes me feel better/lucky about my engine being ok. It's cool that you can talk to him (Chrysler mechanic) and get good trusted information. I wonder how long he's been a certified Chrysler mechanic?

WildJJ :)
 
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It definately can hit. I had the EXACT thing happen to me on my way to work last winter. The car lost power and I costed off to an exit. Later the mechanic had removed sections of the motor to show me what had happened. Valve post were bent, pistons were chinked, and my connecting rods were bent, one broke. All from a timing chain breaking. :/
 

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Timing Chain = 3.3L

Timing Belt = 3.5L

Only on the 3.5L should it be ok if the belt breaks

The 3.3L should self destruct.
 

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atlanta35 said:
You mean I spent a whole week on that engine and the valves were fine? Oh well it was fun anyway. LOL Guys, those valves were toast, but you all have to remember at was pulling out in to traffic and I was at a redline shift and then "snap". That was all she wrote.
Well theres the answer to Atlanta's problem, when they hit he was close to redline. That much centrifigal force outward at the rpms of redline ie 6000-6500, actually takes every bit of clearance out and actually stretches the components ever so slightly, hence the clearance between piston and valve non-existent. Thats only in Atlanta's case. As far as the others, maybe it is more of 9 out of 10 not 99 out of 100 as far as the possibility.:alien:
 

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Re: Certified Chrysler Mechanic

I think somewhere around 20-25 years. Biggest MOPAR fan you'll see. Loves what he does for a living. He is still searching for the ultimate MOPAR hot rod to fix up.

WildJJ said:
Mopar4U,
Thank you very much. Your posted information makes me feel better/lucky about my engine being ok. It's cool that you can talk to him (Chrysler mechanic) and get good trusted information. I wonder how long he's been a certified Chrysler mechanic?

WildJJ :)
 

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TMX, sounds like you had a bigger problem than the belt breaking, sounds like it blow up, then the belt broke from it stopping so quick, or you were doing out 15g's on the motor when the belt broke LOL, O well, sorry to here it blow so bad


97 Sport 148,000 miles and counting
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Viewable?

Hi All,
I was wondering if the timing belt is viewable simply by lifting up the hood, and looking at the engine? When I looked, I could only see two belts up front (near the radiator?), one looked normal, and the other was really wide (maybe an inch) and really thin (maybe 1/10 inch). I know that the really wide & thin one has MOPAR printed all over it.

Thanks-
WildJJ :)
 

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behind those belts you see...is an aluminum covor. remove the covor along with the drive belts and you'll see your timing belt tucked up INSIDE the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Re:

nightravin13,
I see. Thank you. I figured it was somewhere else, because I couldn't see "NAPA" printed anywhere on any belts. I wonder if NAPA makes good durable/reliable products. Probably not as good as Mopar.

Right now at my local Dodge Dealership they have this 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. The sticker is priced at $10,995. It's also claiming it has 215HP, but the Alero's V6 was only 170 I'm pretty sure. I kinda like it though. It's a silver 2-door with custom rims & low profile tires. No spoiler or fogs though, & cloth interior. My trep has leather and I feel as if I never want to go back to a cloth interior again! lol

WildJJ :)
 

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do you need new gaskets for the timing cover? the cover is 2-piece? how do the 2 halves seal to each other? does the radiator have to come out? would it help access if you took it out?
 

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joe_mn said:
do you need new gaskets for the timing cover? the cover is 2-piece? how do the 2 halves seal to each other? does the radiator have to come out? would it help access if you took it out?
Only if the old gasket is damaged - only intended to keep out dust, dirt, liquids, etc - not like other gaskets where fluids are under pressure.

The cover is 3 piece - one by alternator, one huge piece on top of crankshaft dampener, one tiny piece under it (but accessible through it). The radiator doesn't have to come out - just unbolt it (and take the fan off) - and let it come forward (towards bumper) a little bit - this gives you ample clearance. Just make sure, with the radiator there, that you are careful with all of your tools - damaging the radiator would just be another PITA on top of what you're already doing.

Took me quite a while - though I was taking breaks and watching TV, and trying to go slow, since its the first time I've done it. If I did it again, I think it would take between 2-4 hours.
 

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Re: Re:

WildJJ said:
...It's also claiming it has 215HP, but the Alero's V6 was only 170 I'm pretty sure.
I just checked Old's website and you're right, it has 170hp and 200ft/lbs torque.
 

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Super late to this thread, BUT... per the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, here it is...

CAUTION: The 3.2/3.5L are NOT freewheeling
engines. Therefore, care should be taken not to
rotate the camshafts or crankshaft with the timing
belt removed.


That is located on page 9-171 of the 1,700+ page manual.
 
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