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Discussion Starter #1
ok, i got a 95, V6 3.5 liter intrepid, and i had to replace the water pump. this is a friends car, and im a ford guy, so it was all very very fun! somehow, i screwed up the timing on the timing belt. would somebody be so kind as to edumacate my dumb a*s as to how to set the timing belt properly. and if there is a way to do it without having to take the crank pulley off.

and on a side note, how do you take the crank pulley off on these cars since there is only 1 bolt there?

thanks a million to whoever helps.
 

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Maybe this will answer your question:

Timing Belt

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8


Fig. 1: Align the crankshaft sprockets between the marks on the rear belt covers-3.5L engine




Fig. 2: Exploded view of the timing belt routing-3.5L engine




Fig. 3: Compress the tensioner plunger in a vise




Fig. 4: Remove the crankshaft sprocket with tool L-4407-A or the equivalent




Fig. 5: Tap out the dowel pin in the crankshaft




Fig. 6: Remove the crankshaft seal with tool 6341A or equivalent




Fig. 7: Install the seal by tapping it into place with the special tool 6342




Fig. 8: Install the crankshaft sprocket as shown



Remove the timing cover as outlined.

If the timing belt is to be reused, mark the timing belt running direction for installation. Align the camshaft sprockets with the marks on the rear covers.

Remove the timing belt and tensioner. Inspect the timing belt for excessive wear, damage and/or deterioration and replace with new belt, if necessary.

Remove the camshaft sprockets, use the following procedure.

Hold the camshaft sprocket with a 36 mm box wrench, loosen and remove the sprocket retaining bolt and washer.

To remove the camshaft sprocket retainer bolt while the engine is in the vehicle, it may be necessary to raise that side of the engine due to the length of the retainer bolt. The right bolt is 8 3/8-inch (213.00 mm) long, while the left bolt is 10.0 inch (254.00 mm) long. These bolts are not interchangeable and their original location during removal should be noted.

Tap the dowel pin out of the crankshaft.

Remove the seal using a special seal puller.

The shaft seal lip surface must be free of varnish, nicks or dirt. Polish it with a 400 grit paper if necessary.

To install:

Install the crankshaft seal using a seal installer such as tool, 6342 or equivalent.

Install the dowel pin into the crankshaft to 0.047 inch (1.0mm) protrusion.

Install the camshaft sprockets, using the following procedure.

This procedure can only be used when the camshaft sprockets have been loosened or removed from the camshafts. Each sprocket has a D-shaped hole that allows it to be rotated several degrees in each direction on its shaft. This design must be timed with the engine to ensure proper performance.

Pre-load the belt tensioner as follows:

Place the tensioner in a vise the same way it is mounted on the engine.

Slowly compress the plunger into the tensioner body.

When the plunger is compressed into the tensioner body install a pin through the body and plunger to retain plunger in place until tensioner is installed.

Install both camshaft sprockets to the appropriate shafts. The left camshaft sprocket has the DIS pickup as part of the sprocket.

Apply Loctite® 271 or equivalent, to the threads of the camshaft sprocket retainer bolts and install to the appropriate shafts. The right bolt is 8 3/8-inch (213.00mm) long, while the left bolt is 10.0 inch (254.00 mm) long. These bolts are not interchangeable. Do not tighten the bolts at this time. The camshaft marks should be between the marks on the cover.

Align the camshaft sprockets between the marks on the covers.

Align the crankshaft sprocket with the TDC mark on the oil pump cover.

Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and going in a counterclockwise direction. After the belt is installed on the right sprocket, keep tension on the belt until it is past the tensioner pulley.

Holding the tensioner pulley against the belt, install the timing belt tensioner into the housing and tighten to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

When the tensioner is in place pull the retainer pin to allow tensioner to extend to the pulley bracket.

Remove the spark plug in the No. 1 cylinder and install a dial indicator to check Top Dead Center (TDC) of the piston. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is exactly at TDC. Hold the camshaft sprocket hex with a 36 mm wrench and tighten the right camshaft sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm) plus an additional 90 degree turn. Tighten the left camshaft sprocket bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) plus an additional 90 degree turn.

Remove the dial indicator. Install the spark plug and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

Remove the camshaft alignment tools from the back of the cylinder heads and install the cam covers and new O-rings. Tighten the fasteners to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Repeat this procedure on the other camshaft.

Rotate the crankshaft sprocket two revolutions and check for proper alignment of the timing marks on the camshaft and the crankshaft. If the timing marks do not line up, repeat the procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wow that was a lot of info. thanks for taking the time to put that up. i think in this case i can do following (if anyone knows im wrong feel free to chime in)

1) put the motor at TDC by checking the number one cylinder (by the way, could someone show me a diagram of the fireing order?)
2) line up both camshaft sprockets with the marks noted in the pictures.
3) then line up the belt with the dot on the sprocket
- the idea being that if i have it at TDC and those 2 sprockets lined up the
crank will be lined up by default, saving me the trouble and expense of
pulling the crank pulley

then i think everything will be kosher. sound about right to you guys?
 

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Here's the firing order:

FIRING ORDERS


Fig. 1: 3.3L and 3.5L enginesFiring order: 1-2-3-4-5-6Distributorless Ignition System




Fig. 2: The firing order is marked on the intake plenum
 

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Use a dial guage with the tip resting on a long socket extension in the spark plug hole, this will allow you to more accurately determine TDC. The crank timing gear has a pointer that will also show TDC but due to the small diam of this sprocket, it would be hard to determine TDC precisely (could be a couple of degrees off and you couldnt tell from looking at the crank timing mark). The harmonic balancer is a press fit and you would need a puller with three claws to get it off. There are flat spots between each spoke at the hub for the puller to grab. You would need to remove the radiator to get the harmonic balancer off as there is not enough room to get a puller on it otherwise.
 

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I never remove the balancer to replace the belt. You can fish it thru with little effort. The cover is in two pieces, the lowere bit is held on with one screw.
 
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