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Just picked up some TRW bushings for the torque struts on my 94es. They are the two piece ones. Are these hard to change? Are these struts loaded if the suspension is hanging? If anyone who has done this can give me a few pointers, I would appreciate it, and I can cure one more "clunk" in the front end.
 

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94Intrepid said:
Just picked up some TRW bushings for the torque struts on my 94es. They are the two piece ones. Are these hard to change? Are these struts loaded if the suspension is hanging? If anyone who has done this can give me a few pointers, I would appreciate it, and I can cure one more "clunk" in the front end.
What's a Torque Strut ????? Did you mean Sway bar links -Stabilizer links or what ??? :hmm:
 

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I think he is refering to strut-rod bushings. The support arm that goes from the lower control arm to the frame. The 2 pc bushings are a breeze and are available from Advance auto, TRW, lifetime warrenty, and polyurathane I believe. $7 for the control arm side, $13 for the frame side. I just got done doing these, and it is fairly easy. These are the steps I took here: (sorry guys, I flunked english/grammar!!)

1. Jack car up, and set on jackstands.
2. Remove front tires.
3. Undo nut on each end of strut-rod. THESE ARE TIGHT, and my impact gun was unable to break them loose. On the rod toward the front (frame) there is a "flatted" area that you can put a large pipe wrench or crecent around to keep the rod from spinning, then use a big breaker bar and they'll pop right loose.
4. Remove "pinch-bolt" from lower ball joint, and pop the ball joint out of the spindle.
5. Remove the bolt in the frame that holds the lower control arm to the frame.
6. Remove the control arm, and strut rod.
7. Replace bushings.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I just did these last night in fact, but I don't have a digital camera, or I would have taken pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Yeah, it took me about 2hrs to do both sides, its not hard at all, and like anything else, once you do one side, the other is cake.
 

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'94Trep - how did this work out for you? I have to do mine, and though it looks easy, I can see it probably will be a pain to loosen the large nuts on each end of the tension strut.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
About two hours was right, using air tools. Use a pipe or adjustable wrench to hold the struts on the flat spot. They are mounted in those rubber bushings that take all the torque out of the gun. I found most of my noise was coming from the LCA bushings that were shot. New LCA's were installed at the same time. With new (read : firm) strut bushings in place lining up the bolt holes on the frame end of the LCA's was a bit of a challenge. With a little sweat, and a few new words invented, they finally went in. If you use a wrench to turn the torque strut it will help to line up the bolt holes, just dont forget to turn it back to the correct position before you tighten. Front end is now clunk free and it's a pleasure to drive again.
 

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Additional information

Just some additional information. My Chilton manual list calls it a "tension strut" I was also able to purchase these bushings at Advanced Auto Parts. They are made by TRW. The Part # is HB1592K. There is an additional number listed of 022-3817-8. I paid $9.99 for a box that contained both bushings. One box will complete one side. I hope that this information will help, this thread really helped me to even locate where to find these parts.
 
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