I don’t have an answer for you but I’ve experienced the same thing with the car being learchy into reverse or drive. I really hope this isn’t the case because I don’t have the money to spend on something like that. It has been doing it on occasion for years and I think it got better when I serviced the trans fluid. Hopefully yours isn’t giving out on you. For the record, I too have an 04 Intrepid SE with the 2.7 42LE combo.
Transmission (A606-42LE) wants to be in in First and Reverse gears at the same time
I have 2004 2.7L Intrepid SE with the "Chrysler Ultradrive A606 (42LE)" transmission. When I go in reverse it hesitates/slips (sometimes very "grabby"), took it to an experienced mechanic and was told it's trying to go into First and Reverse at the same time due to a hydraulic seal failure that's letting/trying to engage both Frist and Reverse gears at the same time.
The deciding determination by the mechanic was by turning the engine off while going in reverse, it then rolls in reverse smoothly (I verified that). There are no OBD codes flashing, transmission fluid level is as should be and fluid color looks clean. Car has 140K miles, and as far as I know from all the receipts that came wit the car when I bought it used at 106K miles, it has never had any transmission service.
I have not heard of a transmission doing this before and can't find anything online (may not be using correct search words), has anyone experienced this? Short of a full replacement, any ideas what may be going on, maybe the mechanic made the wrong determination and it's something else?
The deciding determination by the mechanic was by turning the engine off while going in reverse, it then rolls in reverse smoothly (I verified that). There are no OBD codes flashing, transmission fluid level is as should be and fluid color looks clean. Car has 140K miles, and as far as I know from all the receipts that came wit the car when I bought it used at 106K miles, it has never had any transmission service.
I have not heard of a transmission doing this before and can't find anything online (may not be using correct search words), has anyone experienced this? Short of a full replacement, any ideas what may be going on, maybe the mechanic made the wrong determination and it's something else?
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
I don’t have an answer for you but I’ve experienced the same thing with the car being learchy into reverse or drive. I really hope this isn’t the case because I don’t have the money to spend on something like that. It has been doing it on occasion for years and I think it got better when I serviced the trans fluid. Hopefully yours isn’t giving out on you. For the record, I too have an 04 Intrepid SE with the 2.7 42LE combo.
Thanks for the input. I first noticed this about half a year ago, and some days it's worse than other, cannot find a pattern though what causes it to be worse (temperature,...?). By "serviced the trans fluid", do you mean you had a tranni FLUSH done or just changed oil/filer? Reason I ask, with older trannies doing a flush can sometimes make things worse, and I forgot to mention in original post that the car has 140K miles on it and from what I see from service records when I bought it used it had never had tranni fluid changed or any tranni work done.I don’t have an answer for you but I’ve experienced the same thing with the car being learchy into reverse or drive. I really hope this isn’t the case because I don’t have the money to spend on something like that. It has been doing it on occasion for years and I think it got better when I serviced the trans fluid. Hopefully yours isn’t giving out on you. For the record, I too have an 04 Intrepid SE with the 2.7 42LE combo.
I did a flush because I didn’t want to deal with the trans pan but 6 months later (because of my own stupidity) I evacuated all my trans fluid on the ground so I changed the filter to make sure there wasn’t any major carnage. Didn’t see anything but the magnet was earning its keep. Lots of metal filings that would otherwise be in the fluid.Thanks for the input. I first noticed this about half a year ago, and some days it's worse than other, cannot find a pattern though what causes it to be worse (temperature,...?). By "serviced the trans fluid", do you mean you had a tranni FLUSH done or just changed oil/filer? Reason I ask, with older trannies doing a flush can sometimes make things worse, and I forgot to mention in original post that the car has 140K miles on it and from what I see from service records when I bought it used it had never had tranni fluid changed or any tranni work done.
You made sure to refill with ONLY ATF+4, right?
Before I'd assume a seal failure, I'd begin to wonder if you have a solenoid sticking.
How often does it do it? Is it often enough that you can do an experiment reliably?
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Before I'd assume a seal failure, I'd begin to wonder if you have a solenoid sticking.
How often does it do it? Is it often enough that you can do an experiment reliably?
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Of course! Only ATF4+ was used. It would be kind of random. Sometimes it would do it somewhat frequently but a lot of times (especially after I changed the fluid) there really wasn’t any weirdness getting into gear so idk if I could experiment with it. It has also been about 7 months since I last drove it (because of a o ring-less timing chain tensioner and not using RTV on the transmission pan) so the memory of the issue is a little fuzzy.You made sure to refill with ONLY ATF+4, right?
Before I'd assume a seal failure, I'd begin to wonder if you have a solenoid sticking.
How often does it do it? Is it often enough that you can do an experiment reliably?
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
There was a Service Bulletin about Delayed Engagement due to leaking internal seals. Typically occurs after sitting unused for a period of time. If I recall it is seals in the front pump causing loss of prime.
In severe cases it will also set a code.
My 300M w/250k miles does this occasionally if I don’t use it daily, and has done it for the past 100k.
I just move the shifter from D to R at idle, dwelling for a few seconds in each position until the trans engages.
Seafoam Trans Tune 100 miles pre change. Drop pan, Filter, refill ATF+ 4, (std gasket no RTV)
Avoid Machine Flush at all costs. Recirculating crap and generic fluid snake oil (IMHO)
In severe cases it will also set a code.
My 300M w/250k miles does this occasionally if I don’t use it daily, and has done it for the past 100k.
I just move the shifter from D to R at idle, dwelling for a few seconds in each position until the trans engages.
Seafoam Trans Tune 100 miles pre change. Drop pan, Filter, refill ATF+ 4, (std gasket no RTV)
Avoid Machine Flush at all costs. Recirculating crap and generic fluid snake oil (IMHO)
Thanks for this! Do you know of a replacement trans pan that has a drain plug in it? I’d really hate to have to deal with the trans fluid getting all over my driveway. Right now mine had no fluid at all and mine does require RTV for the pan that’s on it now. Thanks again!There was a Service Bulletin about Delayed Engagement due to leaking internal seals. Typically occurs after sitting unused for a period of time. If I recall it is seals in the front pump causing loss of prime.
In severe cases it will also set a code.
My 300M w/250k miles does this occasionally if I don’t use it daily, and has done it for the past 100k.
I just move the shifter from D to R at idle, dwelling for a few seconds in each position until the trans engages.
Seafoam Trans Tune 100 miles pre change. Drop pan, Filter, refill ATF+ 4, (std gasket no RTV)
Avoid Machine Flush at all costs. Recirculating crap and generic fluid snake oil (IMHO)
Link to pan plug install
Login - Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club
300mclub.org
Thank you so much! This will help tremendously and make servicing the transmission much easier!Link to pan plug install
Login - Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club
300mclub.org
I just logged in with my account and it says I'm not authorized to read the forum for some reason. Not sure why this is. Would it be possible to send me a PDF or screenshots of the install procedure?Link to pan plug install
Login - Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club
300mclub.org
Added Drain Plug to my trans pan this time around to make fluid and filter changes less sloppy in the future.
This is what the local Advanced had in stock. $3.59
![]()
Install is straight forward. Select location, drill 1/2" hole, deburr, install.
![]()
![]()
I added a bit of sealer to the nylon washers just in case. Considered using copper washers (if it leaks in the future I will change)
The drain plug itself has an oring that seals in a chamfer, again may replace with copper washer if it leaks.
![]()
This was done in 2009 and still dry as the day Installed it.
One other member put his cordless drill in a plastic bag and drilled in to drain first time. Just don't go to deep!
This is what the local Advanced had in stock. $3.59
Install is straight forward. Select location, drill 1/2" hole, deburr, install.
I added a bit of sealer to the nylon washers just in case. Considered using copper washers (if it leaks in the future I will change)
The drain plug itself has an oring that seals in a chamfer, again may replace with copper washer if it leaks.
This was done in 2009 and still dry as the day Installed it.
One other member put his cordless drill in a plastic bag and drilled in to drain first time. Just don't go to deep!
4
Sooo, this thread got sidetracked real quick, any thoughts about the original question regarding the reverse slippage and what the mechanic says is the issue?
Thanks so much! I’ll probably take off the pan for this because it doesn’t have any fluid in it rn so that’ll be the easiest thing to do.Added Drain Plug to my trans pan this time around to make fluid and filter changes less sloppy in the future.
This is what the local Advanced had in stock. $3.59
![]()
Install is straight forward. Select location, drill 1/2" hole, deburr, install.
![]()
![]()
I added a bit of sealer to the nylon washers just in case. Considered using copper washers (if it leaks in the future I will change)
The drain plug itself has an oring that seals in a chamfer, again may replace with copper washer if it leaks.
![]()
This was done in 2009 and still dry as the day Installed it.
One other member put his cordless drill in a plastic bag and drilled in to drain first time. Just don't go to deep!
I had asked this above, but someone else answered...Sooo, this thread got sidetracked real quick, any thoughts about the original question regarding the reverse slippage and what the mechanic says is the issue?
It was also said that a seal on the front pump may cause delayed engagement. Does that match your symptoms?You made sure to refill with ONLY ATF+4, right?
Before I'd assume a seal failure, I'd begin to wonder if you have a solenoid sticking.
How often does it do it? Is it often enough that you can do an experiment reliably?
I haven't played with this on my LH transmission and lasted attention, but in general, shutting off the engine will stop pumping fluid, and by the nature of how automatics work, it will effectively go into neutral. So, all cars would roll back freely.
I would lean towards other ideas, but kinda waiting on a response.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Thanks, wasn't sure who you were responding to since someone else answered:I had asked this above, but someone else answered...
You made sure to refill with ONLY ATF+4, right?
Before I'd assume a seal failure, I'd begin to wonder if you have a solenoid sticking.
How often does it do it? Is it often enough that you can do an experiment reliably?
It was also said that a seal on the front pump may cause delayed engagement. Does that match your symptoms?
I haven't played with this on my LH transmission and lasted attention, but in general, shutting off the engine will stop pumping fluid, and by the nature of how automatics work, it will effectively go into neutral. So, all cars would roll back freely. I would lean towards other ideas, but kinda waiting on a response.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
- I haven't had to add any transmission fluid, it's always been at the same (proper) level and does not look dirty.
- It started doing it periodically some time ago (on and off) but now it's just about always slipping in reverse and more so.
- Regarding the front seal, I'm not getting a delayed engagement, the reverse engages right away but when I travel in reverse it hesitates and slips the duration of going in reverse.
- I think a solenoid sticking would throw an error code? Don't know, but not getting any error codes.
- What kind of experiment are you referring to? If you have an idea what to try, yes, I can do it reliably since it's an ongoing issue now.
You said the mechanic drove in reverse, then shot the car off... It rolled back freely. So he claimed it was junk?
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
He drove it back and forth and said that the transmission is trying to shift into first while going in reverse, meaning something is not disengaging to allow full smooth reverse movement. He said it's likely due to a hydraulic leak inside and therefore is not applying the fluid pressure properly or losing the pressure where it shouldn't be (can't remember the exact wording now).You said the mechanic drove in reverse, then shot the car off... It rolled back freely. So he claimed it was junk?
And the confirmation for him was when he shut the engine off, while moving in reverse, it rolled smoothly since 1st gear was no longer interfering with reverse.
Ah! Now I get it. I don't believe it completely (I just need to keep thinking about it), but I follow what he did and what he means now.And the confirmation for him was when he shut the engine off it rolled smoothly since 1st gear was no longer interfering with reverse.
I honestly don't know of a solenoid pack would trip a code or not, but if no other explanation can be found, I would drop a solenoid pack into it first before condemning the transmission.
In my mind, the solenoid for 1st could be sticking, keeping it half engaged. The computer would command the solenoid to shut down, and ELECTRICALLY, it would shut down (No codes). Mechanically, however, it is still (partially) engaged.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I almost wonder if mine is doing the exact same thing. It occasionally will lurch into R or D but I remember it getting better when I changed my trans fluid. Would that just happen when it had dirty fluid or could that be something else? Idk.Ah! Now I get it. I don't believe it completely (I just need to keep thinking about it), but I follow what he did and what he means now.
I honestly don't know of a solenoid pack would trip a code or not, but if no other explanation can be found, I would drop a solenoid pack into it first before condemning the transmission.
In my mind, the solenoid for 1st could be sticking, keeping it half engaged. The computer would command the solenoid to shut down, and ELECTRICALLY, it would shut down (No codes). Mechanically, however, it is still (partially) engaged.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums
A forum community dedicated to Dodge Intrepid owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, specs, parts, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
