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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the trunk release button works because I heard he latch releasing, and if I hold the button down I can have another person open the trunk. It just doesnt seem to want to pop, so I checked it out and I saw like a little spring coil thing under the carpet to the right of the latch hook (in the trunk not on the door itself) that looks broken. iIwas wondering if that is the problem cuz im think that is what's supposed to pop the trunk up when i push the release buttom, but I have also heard that the trunk struts could be the problem. Its probaly both because the trunk just slams closed and that thing is heavy. I need a solution because i cant be the only one to ever have this problem.
 

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There is a spring in the latch that positions the latch arm properly when opened or closed. If its broken, you need a new latch, either from the boneyard or the dealer.

You could try some penetrating oil, just for giggles to see if it improves things.
 

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If it's the supporting arms/struts/gas lifts, all the same thing, you will be able to get you fingers under it a little bit then pull the lid up. It slamming is a symptom of this.

If you can't do that, then it is your latch. Once you get a replacement latch you can remove the backseat to get inside the trunk then release it with the emergency escape latch, then just push up.

If you need help removing the backseat let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea I figured the struts must be shot but the fact that the trunk doesnt move at all wen i push the button is what troubled me the most because i didnt think that the "popping" action of the trunk relied on the struts. I figured there was something in the latch or around the latch that popped it up (little spring coil thing under the carpet to the right of the latch hook), and THEN from there the struts helped with the weight of the door for easier opening an closing. how does it really work?
 

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I went through this a couple of years ago. I replaced the gas struts and it didn't fix it.

Daytrepper has the right answer : there is a clock-spring affair attached to the stationary part of the latch. It's probably broken. You'd never know it was there unless someone pointed it out or you have a reason to go looking for it (like you do now).
 

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The struts aren't the issue, the spring in the trunk latch is. I have one in my parts car that I could get rid of if you're interested.
 

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(going to look for this spring on my spare trunk lid).. to see if it looks different than the one on my car.. My trunk does that same thing...But I have 2 layers of dynamat making the lid a little heavier ...

When a normal functioning trunk pops..how exactly does it act..how far does it open on it's own??
 

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(going to look for this spring on my spare trunk lid).. to see if it looks different than the one on my car.. My trunk does that same thing...But I have 2 layers of dynamat making the lid a little heavier ...

When a normal functioning trunk pops..how exactly does it act..how far does it open on it's own??
I'd say, 1/4" + . Look at where the latch is on the bottom of the trunk. There's a little "arm", that arm lifts the trunk a bit. When I release my trunk, I hear a pop and it visibly goes up.
 

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Mine seems to be in perfect working order..not broken..yet it dont pop up like it should..the spring seems to have a decent amount of pressure behind it..and the arm isnt broken plastic tip on the end is still there .. is it possible to adjust the spring to make it stronger?
 

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I doubt it, maybe bring the trunk latch up if there's some play in the mounting holes but that might throw your trunk alignment off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so the spring is not in the latch itself on the lid but on the car by the latch hook right?

P.S. wutz up Scarce911 thanks for the help u gave me on cardomain.com wit the a/c control unit led lights
 

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so the spring is not in the latch itself on the lid but on the car by the latch hook right?

P.S. wutz up Scarce911 thanks for the help u gave me on cardomain.com wit the a/c control unit led lights
the spring is inside the trunk-not under the lid.... I'm going to try and lube my trunk to see if that helps... Graphite..grease...LPS lubricant..Duralube..WD-40.. which should I use...or does it matter?

Hey Sean..how's it goin? About the LEDs..what exactly did I do? lol..I dont recall..got any pics?..send me links on cd ..no need to take up space on here.. and if you need help with anything else..as you know I'll help all I can..Feel free


PBdude.. I'll try the adjustments if lube dont help.. after I get my donor trunk lid modded and installed..(shaved key hole & something with the brake bar- aaaand as always..haven't fully decided WHAT I'm doing to the brake bar)
 

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the spring is inside the trunk-not under the lid.... I'm going to try and lube my trunk to see if that helps... Graphite..grease...LPS lubricant..Duralube..WD-40.. which should I use...or does it matter?...
Yes it matters. WD-40 is not a lubricant. I keep a spray can of white lithium grease for general purpose use on the car and around the house. That stuff is *good*. It is lithium grease in a carrier that evaporates, leaving a nice thin film of high quality lubricant.

Auto parts stores carry it on the shelf with the brake fluid, lubricants, cleaners, etc.
 

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PB Blast'r makes a lithium grease, that works best for me. And PEVA is right, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is used to break stuck items but later becomes sticky and can lock it up.
 

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PB Blast'r makes a lithium grease, that works best for me. And PEVA is right, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is used to break stuck items but later becomes sticky and can lock it up.
But WD-40 is also not a penetrating oil.
 

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I've been meaning to get some white lithium grease.. I actually have never bought WD-40.. I have some PB penetrating, LPS and dura lube....There are so many products on the market!

Sean.. you get yours figured out??
 

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few weeks ago I grabbed some white lithium grease..mine works fine now.. lubed all pivot points, mechanisms, and the spring.. pops up about 1/4" like it should :D
 
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