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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered my special sway bar and bushings today from a local dealer and it should be here within a week. Coming from Milwaukee... Only came out to $30 altogether!!

Now within this week I am going to

-Flush the tranny fluid
-get an oil change
-new front wheel bearings
-New rotors all around+ some good pads
-fix whatever the reason is that my belts keep squeaking

Some mechanic from a couple years ago stripped the oil drain part of the pan... Do I get a new pan? How much for that and the labor?
 

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...Some mechanic from a couple years ago stripped the oil drain part of the pan... Do I get a new pan? How much for that and the labor?
You have several options - each with their pros and cons. The easiest is to get a replacement plug at the auto parts store called an "oversize thread" plug - made just for this problem. It is fluted like a tap, and has slightly oversize threads, so it cuts its own new slightly-larger threads. They are on the same rack in the auto parts stores as all the replacement oil plugs. You want the one that is labeled "M14x1.5 O.S." (O.S. = over size). The new threads won't be real deep, so it won't be quite as strong as the original threads or other options - so you'd have to be moderately gentle with that plug from now on - if you have other people change your oil, that could be a problem (for the same reason your original threads got stripped - i.e., absolute idiots with impact wrenches working in oil changing places or even dealerships). Also, depending on the washer used, the O.S. plugs sometimes don't seal all that well - but if they have one with a recessed type o-ring washer, that should work.

All other options (helicoil, or drilling and tapping for, say, a new M16x1.5 plug) would generally require pan removal because drilling and/or tapping (or replacing the pan with a new one) are required (because there's not enough room between pan and frame to get the things into the hole that you need to for drilling and tapping). Pan removal adds more PITA factor to the job.
 

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Some mechanic from a couple years ago stripped the oil drain part of the pan... Do I get a new pan? How much for that and the labor?
For what is at stake here, get a new pan. They are relatively inexpensive, and not that difficult to change out.

Using an oversized or self tapping plug is asking for trouble -- as the small boss on these where the pan plug hole is drilled can easily crack on the inside of the pan when you force the larger plug into it -- and you'll never see it. They often dont seal correctly either, so you end up with a drain plug leak. Worse case scenario, lose the plug, lose the oil, lose the engine.

Helicoiling is possible, but only with the pan removed, and at that point you might as well change out the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok...so I tried to change my rear sway to the special rear sway tonight...


-got the bolt loose from the right end to that little arm

-got one bolt from bracket on the right side of the car loose, and a lot of grease came dripping out???

-the other bolt on that bracket was VERY hard to get... Took me a breaker bar and a pulled muscle lol..................... Once I got it loose, it just kept spinning and spinning and wouldn't loosen or tighten from there.... Did I strip it??????
 

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Had to chime in on the stripped oil pan bolt - as a pure rookie that should really never be allowed to do any engine work, I have to admit that I changed the oil in my friends car one time (a 68 Mustang) and didn't put the oil pan drain plug back in properly and I ended up cross threading it and stripping it. He drove it home that night (2 hours away) and called me the next morning to tell me his garage floor was covered in oil. OOPS! So yes, after lots of attempts to fix it, the best thing to do is to just change the oil pan with a proper oil drain plug. You could use the over sized plug for a little while, but eventually, it will probably happen again. I learned this lesson my normal way....the hard way!
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I havent gotten the oil pan yet... Sorry I forgot I was supposed to update... I should get the car into my bosses shop tomorrow and check it out with him. After that, I need to check the check engine light that came on just 20 minutes ago...

I hope it comes up as a misfire in cylinder 5.... If the check engine light comes up as a mis in cyl 5, then its either the coil pack or spark plug which I moved from cyl 4 when it came up as a mis for that cyl.... I hope its that simple.... Lol.....

Then rotors, pads, and belt tensioner!!!! A real cream puff for a broke college kid lolol.....

did you get it?
Have I gotten the bolt loose? No... It got dark out so I just tightened up the other 2 and went about my way... In the shop in the morning I will put it on the lift and see what I can do... Can I get these bolts from a parts store or do I have to crawl under a junker? And why was there so much grease? to keep the bushing from cracking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I put the 300m special rear sway on my trep today... It makes a nice difference. I still feel some sway in corners, but I need new front wheel bearings and possibly tie rod ends so that may account for the "loose" feeling....

I am happy I added this bar though!!! As far as the REPAIRS... I will fix the car on wednesday of this next week....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh and I checked the engine code... It read a misfire in cylinder 4 again.... Which either means the injector is not pushing out enough fuel or the valve is burnt..... But my boss says it is just a mis that can come and go, because when he cleared the code, he got in and pressed the gas and the brake at the same time while in drive, and he said it did not pull like it was running on only 5cylinders (spuddering, hesitating, etc.).... But yeah all OTHER repairs will be updated on wednesday lol
 

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I bought my ES from my Dad, and he let it sit for almost a year before I bought it. I had to replace the cam sensor, and the tie rod bushings right after I got it. I kept getting the check engine light so I also replaced the plugs and they were in bad shape .080 gap!! The plugs cleared up the sputtering and hesitation I had.

You most likely need new tie rod bushings,not new tie rod ends. Mine were worn out, ie no rubber just the metal bushing left. I run 44psi in my tires its the max pressure on the side wall of the tire. It really helps tighten up the suspension, and I get a much better milage out of a set of tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok thanks... That makes sense because my dad said he remembers the steering being TIGHT... So it may be because of sitting. I will put about 5-6 more psi in and update as welll........ Where is the best place to get an oil pan and gasket quality and price wise? Chrysler dealer?
 

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Any autoparts chain or the dealer if you just have to have OEM should have one or order one. Shouldn't be any more than $20 at the most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Any autoparts chain or the dealer if you just have to have OEM should have one or order one. Shouldn't be any more than $20 at the most.
At chrysler its $300 for a pan and gasket. Autoparts stores only carry 93-97 oil pans!
 
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