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Discussion Starter #1
This may be a similar problem that many others have had with the first generation 3.5L. I have an occassional instance at stop lights where the car's idle drops off a little and threatens to stall out. I have no other drivability problems, and more importantly, NO TROUBLE CODES!!!

What the hell is this?? Is it the infamous EGR trouble?

I haven't looked over the engine just yet because it is dark out. I plan to tomorrow to see what I can find, if anything.
 

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how many rpms are you doing in gear? mine used to idle around 600 but in the past 6 months or so it's been closer to 500. it never goes below that though so i don't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, mine is idling at a hair above the 500 mark on the tach in gear. I thought it was low too, but I guess its normal?
 

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how many miles are on your ride? i see it's a 97...maybe a 97 thing? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mileage: 107,640

I replaced the spark plugs last year (25,000 miles ago), dropped in a K&N filter and replaced the fuel filter at the same time.

I didn't do the plug wires though. I don't think there is a problem with those because my car runs good in the rain and doesn't misfire at all.

This is probably an ignition or fuel system problem. It could be a sensor or computer problem, but again I am not getting any trouble codes! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just thought of something. It might be the battery. Since at rest and in gear, the car turns at 500 RPM and spins the alternater much slower than at regular speeds. This might be a cause of the problem. I think the battery is OEM, i.e. 5 years old. Although, the car isn't tough to start in the morning. I usually drive with my lights on too.
 

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Im having the same problem. Mine is like 500-600 rpm at the light but it goes to 800 down to 500 because of my system is very powerfull. but when i turn the subs off it iddles at 500. One thing i can say is our altenators is weak. but it should be anythign to worry about. Try an optima deep cycle battery.

The reason these batterys are good, is their abelities to reacharge ten times faster than a regular battery. thus giving you more volatage when you need it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by Wutang15m:
Try an optima deep cycle battery.

The reason these batterys are good, is their abelities to reacharge ten times faster than a regular battery. thus giving you more volatage when you need it
That is the battery I want!!! I have been looking at it for a while. But, $100, that's a lot of scratch.
 

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i have an exide orbital select battery, more cold cranking amps and more amps period than the deep cycle. it's also 3 months old. i don't this is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, my K&N filter is a little on the dirty side, but there are no major restrictions in the box so that can't be it.

Still looking!
 

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LHSer, you have a 130 amp alternator in your LHS? Sweet, us intrepids are stuck with 90 AMP units. I wonder if we could put the 130 amp alternator in our cars to power our stereos and such, or could the voltage regulator take it?
 

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I'm not sure about the alternators on the Treps, since I haven't had to replace one yet, but on the GM's the regulator is built in to the alternator, so you get the right one with the alternator. I'll have to check my repair menual when I get a achance.
 

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I still think us 3.5L guys should try to get the 160 amp alternator from the new 3.5L H/O police cruiser engine. should be the same mounting brackets and wiring... .... *should*
 

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will the alternator from the 2nd gen fit on the 3.5 from the 1st gen? and is the voltage regulator inside the alternator or not? i left my chilton's in my car or else i'd look it up myself :)
 

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I think the only REAL way to check is to get one. :/ I don't know how to just look at it and say... *it will work*
 

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Originally posted by Viprman:
This may be a similar problem that many others have had with the first generation 3.5L. I have an occassional instance at stop lights where the car's idle drops off a little and threatens to stall out. I have no other drivability problems, and more importantly, NO TROUBLE CODES!!!

What the hell is this?? Is it the infamous EGR trouble?

I haven't looked over the engine just yet because it is dark out. I plan to tomorrow to see what I can find, if anything.

Have you had to replace the intake manifold gasket yet? Most 3.5's have had to do this before 100,000 miles
 

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(they replaced that gasget with the fuel rail recall for me)
 

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mine had upper and lower intake manifold gaskets replaced. these gaskets leaking caused a high idle, not a low one, plus my 550-600 rpm idle has not gone back to normal since the service. it might not be a bad thing to check out but chances are this isn't your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I could easily check for that but I don't think it is my problem. I am the second owner of the car and I have no clue if the recall problems were addressed. There are no tags under the hood indicating any service was done.

It has been 3 days and 300 miles since it last happened. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

It's like waiting for your next heart attack. :(
 
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