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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my Chrysler Vision straight out of the box, sorry in advance for my poor English.

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I bought it with the idea of rebuilding it, far from perfect condition. For starters, I replaced the timing with a water pump, accessory belts, spark plugs, Motul 5w40 engine oil, Motul G12 coolant, Mopar +4 gearbox oil and filters. First, I plan to bring it fully mechanically, then externally and internally. I am currently struggling with a 5 cylinder misfire fault. The car is super comfortable and fun to drive.
 

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I like that you are going back to the original filter type. Will you use a paper filter?
 

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(y)

You might find a good aftermarket parts distributor in the US that knows how to export to Europe and order a larger list of parts to reduce overall shipping and border costs.

For OEM (Chrysler) parts you may also find one or 2 Chrysler dealers who also accommodate overseas shipments. There may be good Chrysler dealers in the EU that are good at supplying parts into Poland, but OEM parts for cars this old can be hard to find anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes, I have a proven company that supplies custom-made parts. I still have a Grand Voyager IV, and I ordered gaskets and timing for it. In Vision, I have a problem with misfiring on the 5th cylinder, I changed candles, ignition cables, ignition coil, engine controller, camshaft sensor, temperature sensor, fuel injectors, lambda probes, I checked catalysts, set the timing, I did a fluid test for exhaust fumes from the exhaust and nothing helps. I have to figure out this flaw.
 

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I'm not an engine expert by any means, but could this be a mechanical problem - like a bad/burnt valve or cam or rocker problem?

When you say you did a "fluid test for exhaust fumes", can you describe what that means? (I'm not joking when I say I'm not an engine expert.) 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
testing for the presence of CO2 in the cooling liquid, i.e. checking that the exhaust gases have not damaged the head gasket and have not entered the cooling system. It is very possible that the camshaft is damaged or the valve is blown, of course I checked the compression and all cylinders are ok
 

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I'm not an engine expert by any means, but could this be a mechanical problem - like a bad/burnt valve or cam or rocker problem?

When you say you did a "fluid test for exhaust fumes", can you describe what that means? (I'm not joking when I say I'm not an engine expert.) 😁
I would assume he's referring to what's commonly called a "block test". It's to test for cracked blocks or blown head gaskets by detecting exhaust gases in the coolant. You use special fluid in a large test tube with a bulb on top, sort of like a giant eye dropper. Place it over the radiator fill neck with the engine running, and any gases will have to pass thru the fluid in the test tube (sort of like smoke passing through bong water). If the fluid changes color from blue to yellow, that indicates that exhaust gases are present, and if exhaust gases are present in the cooling system, then you have ISSUES, most likely a cracked block or blown head gasket.
 

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exactly like that, but in my Vision everything turned out fine, I already lack ideas, I think I will have to look at the engine

O rings on the Injector Rails, (There was a recall regarding them at some point)

Also Intake Gaskets, Plenum Gasket are important to make sure are good to keep from having issues.

Compression Check the cylinder.


Also Welcome! I see more Eagle Visions from across the Pond than here stateside!
Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Sky
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The o-rings on the injector rails were replaced with new ones when I replaced the injectors from another car in order to exclude this. I checked the tightness of the intake system as much as possible and it looks fully tight, I checked the compression on all cylinders and it's ok, but thank you very much for the hints, every hint is important to me because I have no idea where to look for a fault before I dismantle the engine as a last resort .

As for Vision's vision, at the beginning I will do my best to make it fully operational and useful, then I will cover the exterior paintwork and finally the interior, there are many plans;)
 

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The o-rings on the injector rails were replaced with new ones when I replaced the injectors from another car in order to exclude this. I checked the tightness of the intake system as much as possible and it looks fully tight, I checked the compression on all cylinders and it's ok, but thank you very much for the hints, every hint is important to me because I have no idea where to look for a fault before I dismantle the engine as a last resort .

As for Vision's vision, at the beginning I will do my best to make it fully operational and useful, then I will cover the exterior paintwork and finally the interior, there are many plans;)
Do you have a code that says Misfire Cylinder 5?

If so, another trick. Trace the spark plug wire back to the coil. And swap the plug wire with the one directly above it or below it. (wanna say cylinder 2 should be across from it) See if misfire now jumps to cylinder 2. (It uses a easted spark system so cylinder 2 and 5 fire at same time. I am pretty sure it is just one coil for two cylinders, but this atleast narrows down or eliminate any issues with coil pack.

Also can do an OHM test on the wire and compare to others. Check for any signs of spark jumping/grounding on wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
in general, as I wrote, I already installed the coil together with ignition cables from another functional car and it did not help, but I will check and replace the cables as you write. I know that at 5, not because I show the computer, but only on this cylinder, if I disconnect the cable from the candle, nothing happens
 

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PCM not firing the coil or fuel injector?
 

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So a replacement PCM is needed.
 

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PCM, that is, read keying error codes? if I disconnect the battery will reset all codes? because when I moved the driver, coil, probes, etc., it could catch errors
Last idea, is to get one of the small engine spark plug tattle tales. I plugs into to the plug wire with a bulb inside to show spark. Verify it's getting spark, which, seeing that the coil pack serves both 5 and 2 same time if there was an issue chances are good both would both have issue, but there is still a minor chance could be just one cylinder.

What were the compression check numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I checked the spark by removing the cable and putting the spark plug close to the engine, there is a good spark and the same in every sum, the compression on the cylinders, as I remember correctly, is 10 bar on all practically the same. I have not checked the conversion of 5 with 2 cylinders yet, there was no time, maybe at the weekend.
 
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