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Discussion Starter #1
My 2000 LHS is leaking water on the driver's side floor board. I am very surprised, as the car has no rust anywhere and the floors are solid. I think it may have to do with my hood release cable. I had removed the hood latch earlier this year and I felt the cable pop and there was some slack, but it still functioned fine. I am wondering if I pulled out a grommet to the firewall? Does that sound like it could be the problem? I notice water after washing the car. Is this easy to get to? I hate interior water leaks!!!

Secondly, while under the car I noticed a bi-lateral oil leak has sprung, it drips down the back and sides of the motor and on to the starter (driver's side) and oil pan (passenger side). I don't see leakage on the ground, so I believe it is slow, and have a strong feeling it is the cam thrust plate seals Are these easy to access and change if all I have is ramps? Can I access through the wheel well? Also, I read that the o-rings are worn, but now they have paper seals, what should I do? Should I use the paper seals or should I try to find the right size Viton o-rings? (does anyone know the size of the o-ring?)
 

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Thanks BH, I think I may need to get the updated thrust plates and paper gaskets. It is hard to find those Viton seals around here and shipping from the US is outta the question. Any idea on the difficulty/time required to do this job? Contemplating whether I do it myself or shop it out.

Also, any ideas on the water leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm also wondering if my switch from Castrol Edge Synthetic to Mobil 1 synthetic is the cause of the leaks. Prior to my last oil change where I used M1, this car didn't leak a drop of oil.
 

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Thanks BH, I think I may need to get the updated thrust plates and paper gaskets. It is hard to find those Viton seals around here and shipping from the US is outta the question. Any idea on the difficulty/time required to do this job? Contemplating whether I do it myself or shop it out.

Also, any ideas on the water leak?
This might be a good deal for you on the -136 viton O-rings - bag o' ten for $12US including shipping to Canada from the UK believe it or not. *AND* - the same size o-ring fits the MTV actuator, which leaks oil on almost every 3.2/3.5 by now: BS136 Viton O Ring 2" x 0 103" | eBay

I've never done that particular job, but from what I've read, there's a bit of stuff that has to be removed to get access to that area (I do know it's crowded). *ALSO*, as revealed by Bob (FireM), one of the cam cover bolts (IIRC on the driver's side - not 100% sure) goes into a *thru* hole (all the others are into blind holes), so when you put that particular bolt back, you need to seal the threads with RTV or similar, or you will get some oil seepage from that bolt.
 

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There've been a bunch of threads on water leaks into the driver's side. I think I've seen about 6 in which the OP reported finding and fixing the leak, but it seems like every single one of them that was resolved had a totally different leak point.

Here are some that I remember:
• Grommet in the door (or door frame) where the wire harness passing from the door frame into the door had popped out of its hole. Pop grommet back in place.
• Some part of the sun roof channels water over there. Don't understand it exactly (my cars don't have sun roofs), don't know how it was fixed.
• There's a seam or joint sealed with RTV at the factory that came unbonded - not sure of exact location - maybe visible/accessible from engine compartment or door frame area.
• There is a big grommet in the firewall that the shifter cable goes thru - could have popped out of hole in firewall. (BTW - if you ever need to run wires from engine compartment into cabin, that grommet is a great place to punch a self-sealing hole to push the wire(s) thru.)

On some of the leak points above that I don't understand the details of where the leak is or how to fix it, possibly someone here does know and can post the info. as well as any other leak places that have been ID'd over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This might be a good deal for you on the -136 viton O-rings - bag o' ten for $12US including shipping to Canada from the UK believe it or not. *AND* - the same size o-ring fits the MTV actuator, which leaks oil on almost every 3.2/3.5 by now: BS136 Viton O Ring 2" x 0 103" | eBay

I've never done that particular job, but from what I've read, there's a bit of stuff that has to be removed to get access to that area (I do know it's crowded). *ALSO*, as revealed by Bob (FireM), one of the cam cover bolts (IIRC on the driver's side - not 100% sure) goes into a *thru* hole (all the others are into blind holes), so when you put that particular bolt back, you need to seal the threads with RTV or similar, or you will get some oil seepage from that bolt.
Thanks Peva, that price is for one ring. I really think I'd be better getting the new plates and paper gaskets at my local dealer. Since it is re-designed, wouldn't the new plates be better?

I may ask my mechanic to do this job, it's hot here and I'm not really feeling like spending a day under the hood. All depends how much my mechanic wants to charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There've been a bunch of threads on water leaks into the driver's side. I think I've seen about 6 in which the OP reported finding and fixing the leak, but it seems like every single one of them that was resolved had a totally different leak point.

Here are some that I remember:
• Grommet in the door (or door frame) where the wire harness passing from the door frame into the door had popped out of its hole. Pop grommet back in place.
• Some part of the sun roof channels water over there. Don't understand it exactly (my cars don't have sun roofs), don't know how it was fixed.
• There's a seam or joint sealed with RTV at the factory that came unbonded - not sure of exact location - maybe visible/accessible from engine compartment or door frame area.
• There is a big grommet in the firewall that the shifter cable goes thru - could have popped out of hole in firewall. (BTW - if you ever need to run wires from engine compartment into cabin, that grommet is a great place to punch a self-sealing hole to push the wire(s) thru.)

On some of the leak points above that I don't understand the details of where the leak is or how to fix it, possibly someone here does know and can post the info. as well as any other leak places that have been ID'd over the years.
Yeah, I'll have to start checking all those areas. I have a strong feeling I pulled my hood latch cable grommet out though I need to check that first. I don't mind any kind of car work, but tracking down water leaks to the inside is something I have great disdain for!

It's especially annoying because my car is in such solid shape, I've had the mechanics tell me the frame and floors have no rust on them, which is a shock for a 16 year old rust belt car.
 

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Thanks Peva, that price is for one ring. I really think I'd be better getting the new plates and paper gaskets at my local dealer. Since it is re-designed, wouldn't the new plates be better?

I may ask my mechanic to do this job, it's hot here and I'm not really feeling like spending a day under the hood. All depends how much my mechanic wants to charge.
You could likely (talk with the seller) get three shipped for one shipping charge.

Or source the same o-ring from a local supply house.

Also: Your mechanic isn't likely to feel like spending his time under the hood either. That labor charge will pay for a LOT of oil.
 

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Thanks Peva, that price is for one ring...
Oh - you're right. Sorry. I'm used to seeing them for under $10 for a bag of ten on ebay. Crazy Brits are selling them one and 2 at a time!

Here's one for two o-rings @$13US plus $11 shipping to Canada, and additional items are free shipping: 3mm Section 136mm Bore Viton Rubber O Rings allow 2 3 Days | eBay
So $24US for two. Could get 4 for about $26 plus $11 ship. Yeah - not that great of a deal if you could find a local source for less.

I really think I'd be better getting the new plates and paper gaskets at my local dealer. Since it is re-designed, wouldn't the new plates be better?
The new plates are either the same, or instead of having the groove for the o-ring are simply flat plates. I just like an o-ring out of good material much better than cardboard. I just see cardboard seeping over time.

I may ask my mechanic to do this job, it's hot here and I'm not really feeling like spending a day under the hood. All depends how much my mechanic wants to charge.
DIY and count your time as 'free', then the $37 for the O-rings total out of pocket seems not too bad. : )
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is no fun. I decided to change my noisy brake booster and master cylinder out while everything was out. The piece of junk rebuilt Cardone mc is leaking at the back brake line fitting. I re-torqued it, cranked down on it and fluid continues to slowly ooze out of the hole in the nut that the line goes through. This was not happening before and the brake line flare looked fine, so I am assuming the seat in the mc for the brake line is faulty... Annoying.

I can't find the water leak at all, the seams look good and there is no rust anywhere. My feeling is that the windshield has sprung a leak at the bottom edge. My neighbour is a mobile windshield repair man, so I'll let him take a look. One thing that looked odd is that in the back corner of the driver side cowl behind the large drain hole, there is a much smaller hole. It has been there since factory assembly, but when I look at it, I can't figure out where water that goes there is draining. Anyone know where that hole goes?

Finally, those thrust plates are oil soaked, but very hard to access... Driver's side is covered by hoses and wires that are old and stiff and the passenger side is completely blocked by the EGR valve which looks like a real pain to remove. I will pay the couple hundred to get it done. Not cause it will take me long, but because I see a lot of avenues for something to go sideways on me. I'll bring it to my mechanic with all the peripheral stuff removed (cowl covers, wiper assembly, strut brace etc.) should save me a bit on the labour. I was able to order 10 o-rings for $15. I've done timing belt and water pump service, have changed brakes, radiators, struts, alternators etc., this seems harder than all those things cause of the location.

Sorry, just had to vent.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Everything is fixed, new Dorman M/C, remanufactured brake booster, fresh brake fluid flushed through. Brake pedal is high and firm, huge difference in braking performance.

Garage did the cam shaft thrust seals and at the same time changed the driver side heater tube that had just started leaking.

I found the water leak, it was the little hole in the corner of the cowl on the driver's side as well as the seam that runs along the firewall. I cleaned it up and sealed everything with Polyurethane sealant, I did the passenger side as well. I also put new weather stripping on the cowl cover to help with routing water to the right place.

The car is like new! This year I have re-painted (clear coat failure, no rust issues), done the timing belt/water pump service, new trans pan, new struts, springs and mounts in all 4 corners, front rotors/pads are new and rears are two years old. All fluids are new besides power steering. With only 113,000 (75,000 miles) and all the work I put in should be good for a few years to come. Exhaust is pretty new too.

By the way, the trans fluid change made a huge difference, I felt a massive difference in power transfer, which was completely unexpected. The old fluid wasn't terrible, but it looked due.

Hopefully I get to stay out of the garage for a while now!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Still leaking water...

I found the leak on the inside, on the driver's side kick panel behind the hood release. There is a white plastic conduit with wires in it. This conduit is secured to the vehicle door frame by two plastic tabs that pop into square holes. The holes seem to be filled with foam. Anyways, the hole closer towards the firewall drips a little bit of water out when spraying the lower left side of the windshield/fender with water. There obviously has to be coming from the fender frame or where the fender frame meets the door frame and running downwards.

I have since pulled off the fender and plastic wheel well liner, but am having a lot of trouble seeing where the problem is, my plan is to seal it with some polyurethane, but I don't know where to start looking. Any clues? The wiring conduits (at the door and on the fender) both seem to be sealed, I feel like it is a seam somewhere.

Only odd think I noticed is that up around where the hood hinge is, there is this Styrofoam like material in the seams, some of it was black and squishy, so I pulled it away, but it looks fine behind it.

Any help? I hate water leaks...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Leak is gone now... Removed the driver's side fender, went to town on any body seams with Polyurethane roofer's sealant for metal flashing. I also used the following as a guide and placed sealant in these specific areas. Now I have to figure out the best way to dry this sucker our, does anyone think it is worthwhile trying to dry the jute or should I cut out what is wet and just put new stuff in? It is surprising that with how long this has been going on, I do not smell or see any mold and I am not sure why that is.
STAR Case
Case Number XXXXX
Vehicle Issue Water Leak On Driver Side Floor.;Technician has water tested and cannot locate source of leak.
System or Component Water Leak;Customer Concern (No DTCs),Diagnosis Test Procedure,Repair Procedure;Carpet / Floor Mat,Floor Pan / Undercarriage;Left,Front,Interior
Recommendation On inside of left inner fender approximately 7 inches down from the support bracket for the fender, there is a pinch weld where 2 - 3 pieces of metal are joined together. The inside section of metal, at the pinch weld, may not have any body sealer. Seal area as required using the appropriate body sealer.

STAR Case
Case NumberNNN-NN-NNNN
Vehicle Issue Water on drivers or passenger side floor. => Inspect stamp flange on body behind body weatherstrip.;In what Body/Chassis/Brake area is assistance needed? >> Body What is the general nature or location of your Body concern? >> Water leak Is there water leaking into both front floor pans? >> YES Have you reviewed all diagnostic resources and performed appropriate test procedures for given concern?... >> YES
System or Component Water Leak;Customer Concern (No DTCs);Group 23 - Body / Chassis
Recommendation Inspect stamp flange on body behind body weatherstrip... Look just below the parking brake handle. There is a small hole that should be filled with sealer. There should be a hole on the passenger side of the vehicle in similar location. If you remove the weather strip that is on the body around the door opening, then look around the that section on the body where the weather strip is secured. It will be on the front edge of the body about 6 inches up. You may want to apply some sealer on the edges and then re attach the weather strip.
 
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