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Discussion Starter #1
Any of you ever have wax in tiny scratches in your paint? I have enough that I'm afraid to to wax the dang car anymore. Dare I try to wetsand or rub them out? It's the wife's a 2003 Ruby Red Sonata, which has gotta be a clearcoat. My white Concorde hides all these much better!

Also, I've been using NuFinish for years here in Texas (for protection more than shine), and was wondering if anything else holds up as well in the Texas heat?
 

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if anything, you want the wax in the scratches to make the surface smooth and protected. I have a black trep that dogs decided to jump on my hood when the car was less than a year old. Nice claw like scratches still there to this day, i wax after every wash with no problems.
 

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Also, I've been using NuFinish for years here in Texas (for protection more than shine), and was wondering if anything else holds up as well in the Texas heat?
The stuff is horrible man. Your white residue is coming from that stuff. Get all that stuff off your car and put a couple new coats of Mothers paste carnuba on there. Do it once, wait 2 days and put on another. Good chance you won't have the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Getting wax out of scratches

I'm having a hard time getting the white out of the scratches. What eats wax? Mineral spirits maybe?

Also, dare I try to rub out a bird dropping stain left in the paint (appears to have flattened the clearcoat...) I tried a little fine polishing compound, with no results..
 

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I'm having a hard time getting the white out of the scratches. What eats wax? Mineral spirits maybe?

Also, dare I try to rub out a bird dropping stain left in the paint (appears to have flattened the clearcoat...) I tried a little fine polishing compound, with no results..
You can get it out....Don't use mineral spirits...haha. You can use a bucket of soapy water and a toothbrush, OR, plain old degreaser and a pressure washer. The bird dropping could ruin your clear. Get it off the car. If it leaves a mark in your clear, you can try to rub it out. It's usually not too hard to get out imperfections like that.
 

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Back in the 80's when GM had that horrible problem with the clearcoat checking, many people tried to wax it away, only to find they ended up with white checking as the wax settled into the cracks. The only recomendation I ever had was to wash, wash and wash and eventually you'll wash the wax out. If it was my car, I'd dry buff it, ( I know, but I'm an old pro ) and sooner or later it'll all come out. Stop using Nu-Finish ( not really a wax anyhow ) and as Tooch said, use a good canuba wax.
 

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Not bad if you know what you're doing...can be very dangerous to an amateur
Sure can. I learned the hard way. Back in the day when I was 16 or so, I found my dad's buffer and put compound on my black car in the sunlight, that was sitting there for about 4 hours. hahaha. God did I mess up that car. Other than throwing a few liscence plate frames, I've been pretty much mistake free (big mistakes)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Dry buff? I've wet sanded, rubbed out, polished, swirl removed cars, but never "dry buffed". So, is it like a dry wool pad and on the buffer??? Help me out. Thanks.

Also, what's so bad about the NuFinish? My (white) Concorde is 11 years old and the paint still looks great... It's the only thing I can find that lasts for more than a month in the Texas heat... Can you recommend a good-long lasting wax for a dark car?

BTW, I burned a line in BOTH headlights, and thru the paint next to the passenger headlight on my first polisher/buffer experience! Lessons learned...
 

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Use a dry foam waffle pad, very lightly and very slowly ( must have variable speed buffer ) buff the whole car. You might be able to do it with an orbital polisher, but it would take a little longer, and don't use the application bonnet, use a very soft cloth one.

NuFinish is a pretty good product for certain applications, but as I said before, it's not really a wax. Think of it more as a cleaner, you don't get that fine layer of protection like you do with wax. If there is a body shop supply store near you, go in and ask them what they have in a good canuba...they may carry 3M products , which is what I always used in my shop. Also ask if they carry or know of a product called " Liquid Ebony " or " Liquid Ivory " best polishes I ever used, but aren't cheap( they use to be about $45 / litre). They will hide all the little scratches, and probably hide the wax too. Obviously ebony for dark cars, ivory for lighter ones.
 

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Dry buff? I've wet sanded, rubbed out, polished, swirl removed cars, but never "dry buffed". So, is it like a dry wool pad and on the buffer??? Help me out. Thanks.

Also, what's so bad about the NuFinish? My (white) Concorde is 11 years old and the paint still looks great... It's the only thing I can find that lasts for more than a month in the Texas heat... Can you recommend a good-long lasting wax for a dark car?

BTW, I burned a line in BOTH headlights, and thru the paint next to the passenger headlight on my first polisher/buffer experience! Lessons learned...
Yes, use POR25. And for foggged up headlights, you can use toothpaste. No offense bro, your car doesn't look good after 11 years because of NuFinish. :) Seems as if you just took care of the car.
 

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Dry buff? I've wet sanded, rubbed out, polished, swirl removed cars, but never "dry buffed". So, is it like a dry wool pad and on the buffer??? Help me out. Thanks.

Also, what's so bad about the NuFinish? My (white) Concorde is 11 years old and the paint still looks great... It's the only thing I can find that lasts for more than a month in the Texas heat... Can you recommend a good-long lasting wax for a dark car?

BTW, I burned a line in BOTH headlights, and thru the paint next to the passenger headlight on my first polisher/buffer experience! Lessons learned...
Collinite Marquis D'Elegance is great. Holds up very well.
 
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