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How do they affect the rotors? I had a ceramic clutch(centerforce) in my Stealth and it chewed up my flywheel in 20,000KM. Very little wear on the clutch, but one dead flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
adaptabl said:
How do they affect the rotors? I had a ceramic clutch(centerforce) in my Stealth and it chewed up my flywheel in 20,000KM. Very little wear on the clutch, but one dead flywheel.
Ceramic typically is a bit more harsh. The general rule is that with ceramic pads you have a 1:1 change ratio (meaning when you change the pads, you change the rotors).
 

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Is that you in the pic, styling the green hat? :)

Now personally, for an ad for brakes, i think a better pic would be just a road going straight off a cliff. On the right side you see a car, on the left, two tire marks going right off the edge. Slogan? "Which would you choose?"

Haha! I WIN!

-Adam
 

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My new rotors are starting to warp after 10K miles so if I put on ceramic pads I guess I can look forward to changing the brakes at every oil change
 

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alderran said:
My new rotors are starting to warp after 10K miles so if I put on ceramic pads I guess I can look forward to changing the brakes at every oil change

Maybe every gas fill-up.
 

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Hey, Brian I saw your signiture. Are you going to be out of work? If so, why?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
alderran said:
My new rotors are starting to warp after 10K miles so if I put on ceramic pads I guess I can look forward to changing the brakes at every oil change
You have it backwards. Cermaic pads are more agressive, so when the pads need changing, so will the rotors. NOT when you change the rotors you'll need to change the ceramic pads, although it's a good idea to.

Why are you having so much problems with your rotors? My stock rotors only had slight warpage at the time I changed them. My current rotors are doing excellent.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
viprman said:
Hey, Brian I saw your signiture. Are you going to be out of work? If so, why?
Honeywell has been looking to sell off it's Friction Materials business for many years, even before I started. There is a deal in the works for Federal-Mogul to buy it. The deal most likely won't be signed until the second half of the year. The deal isn't written in stone so it may not go through, but all indications are that it will. If it does go through, since Federal-Mogul has it's own design team (they do the brand name Wagner) it's doubtful that I will be joining their team. I'm not even sure what CAD package they use. Since I'm a contract worker, I'm double screwed. Basically I'll be back to square one with submiting my resume. I can submit it to Federal-Mogul or to Honeywell for some other division (I wonder if Garett turbochargers are looking for anybody).

Needless to say I will be polishing my resume and looking for a new job.
 

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Torque your lug nuts correctly if you want to keep your rotors.
 

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Warlord187 said:


You have it backwards. Cermaic pads are more agressive, so when the pads need changing, so will the rotors. NOT when you change the rotors you'll need to change the ceramic pads, although it's a good idea to.

Why are you having so much problems with your rotors? My stock rotors only had slight warpage at the time I changed them. My current rotors are doing excellent.
Not sure why I changed them at 22K... now I am at 32K. They weren't really bad but the wheel would shake pretty good on a hard brake getting off the highway... it's just starting again feels like it did when it first started the last time was around 14K.

I bought cross drilled rotors from KVR thought the higher quality (well the price was high) would alleviate the long term problem. Maybe I'll try bendix rotors next time. I am thinking of changing them myself this spring when it warms up a bit.

BTW I had them installed by a mechanic who used a torque wrench... he mentioned that not torquing correctly could cause rotor warp... I had rotated the tires and thought maybe it was my fault... guess again I didn't touch anything this time.

Actually I was thinking if you tighten by hand... probably pretty close to the same lbs of force on each lug...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey alderran.....the rotors I currently have (fronts) are UBP (Universal Brake Parts) rotors I got at Murrays. They cost almost $90 per rotor, but are well worth it. Like I said, I have had no problems with them. You may want to check them out next time. Just an idea.
 
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