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Discussion Starter #1
My problem plagued car has another issue. When i start and put in reverse even after a min or two warming up in reverse it sounds horrible. Its loud and sounds slightly like a grinding metallic sound. Can tell engine or tranny but its not a nice sound. mainly does it when on a hill does not make this sound when its really warm though.
 

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I'm sorry to hear read about your difficulties...I don't have an answer to your question but offer a suggestion or 2...
1) List out (all) your problems, take them to the dealer. You may have purchased a lemon. Based on what I've read (and I haven't read them all), you ought to check this out.
2) What have the mechanics either at the dealer or somewhere else said about your problems? Where they able to get them fixed?
3) If you purchased your car used, did you check it with Carfax?
Your post on 9 Jan said your car was a 2000 ES. Are these things getting fixed under warranty? How has the dealer helped you?
HTH...Best of luck.
 

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That sounds like the engine "growl" that all the 3.2L and 3.5L engines have. Not sure if the 2.7L makes the same growl or not. If it is the same sound it's nothing. My car makes it pretty bad sometimes, but goes away as soon as the car is warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it is a "growl" but has gotten worse. I read an artilce from motor trend a long time ago complaining about the growl. Does anyone know why its caused or how to stop it? This sounds more unhealthy of a growl haha. I purchased slightly used and bought the extended warranty thank god. I mean its usually little things going wrong. Engine and tranny fine as far as i can tell. Burns absolutely no oil almost 70000 miles castrol baby. Still keeps up with my buds maxima up to 60 and then he destroys me. Overall a good car but the little things are too many. Maybe i exaggerate some because i am used to a honda with no problems. I have had 4 hondas never had but a gas gauge sensor go out. Not bad ehh and that is a combined mileage of over 400,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
pd your a decent program western mich broncos but everyone knows we are leaps and bounds ahead and we are the only top 25 mac preseason team. Bowling green may be the next but you guys and toledo lost too many. We will have the ncaa top offense in the nation next year.
 

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I've owned two Hondas. Both were blowing blue somke well before 115,000. The first one had the rear suspension collapse befor it was relegated to the junk yard. Yes, the oil was changed regularly at 3000 mile intervals.

I have owned a Ford Bronco II (always blew its transmission gasket at any speed above 70), 1990 Chavy Suburban ( it was great until about 135000 miles, then began to fall apart), 1982 VW Rabbit convertible (Still would be running great, except I lost interest at about 100000). 1984 Jetta GLI (It was a runner and perhaps the closest thing to my R/t, but I sold it at 125000 with no problems), Nissan Sentra (New family and it did'n't have air so we traded it for the Jetta), 1994 4Runner (which I still own and it has been awsome, except for the recall on the head gaskets and the failing starter)

Point is, no car is perfect, and I've owned many of them. I am also familiar with my father cars. In High school I drove a 74 Buick Wagon, 76 BMW 530i, 81 BMW 528i, etc; and non of those cars were wihout their problems.

I now am the proud owner of a 00 Intrepid R/T. Purchased it new the day after X-max in 00 and have no problems. It has almost 16000 miles now and the only service it has had is oil changes. No complaints, no problems.

Don't exactly know what you're problems are Tom, but at 70000, it seems that "small" problems are hardly worth complaining about on an enthusiast site. Seems that the car has treated you reasonably well for that milage. Call me crazy, but give it a thought anyway.
 

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If the "growl" is the cold engine-belt growl, I have the answer!! Woo-hoo I can really answer this one! Pick me teacher, pick me! The big-wig service guy (from the DC tech center) that I talked to about my exhaust issues told me that no amount of re-tensioning of the idler pulley will stop it. There is a part of the belt that is very long from pulley to pulley and when the BELT is cold it vibrates and you can hear it. When the BELT gets warm and flexible - ya just can't hear it anymore but it still vibrates. DC has found a different supplier for the belts and the new ones don't vibrate as much when cold. He says he ordered one for me. Also note that he said "as much", so I fear there will always be a bit of morning music from that belt.

ps. found ya wyort!!
 

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If it's a metallic sound it could be your brakes. Most people keep slight pressure on the brake when starting out in reverse.
 

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DUDE, I have a 1998 ES 3.2L and had a growling noise when the engine was cold that went away as the engine warmed up. This growling noise got more severe over time and is especially severe in winter months. It often won't make the noise at idle -- you have to raise the rpm a little bit to cause the growling rattle.

I finally had the dealer look at it a month ago.

Turns out it was one of the catalytic converters. The converter has an internal monolithic honeycomb structure that is bonded to the inside of the converter shell (so it won't rattle). Sometimes the monolith does break loose and start rattling inside the cat, causing that loud growling rattle. Since the monolith material is not very strong, the rattling clearance just grows over time, making more noise.

The solution is a new catalytic converter -- COVERED by Chrysler for 80,000 miles or so. I do not have any Chrysler extended warranty -- this is an automatic extension for emissions components for all buyers. All car manufacturers are required to warranty the cats and other emissions components for an extended period of time (I believe 80,000mi).

Have the cats checked ASAP before you lose that extended covereage on emissions equipment!

-- Marcus
 
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